Gdetrailer wrote:
WD DOES NOT CONTROL ANYTHING during an emergency maneuver, PERIOD.
You are going to have to explain that one.
Emergency braking is one of the few times, on a properly setup brake controller/trailer brakes, that the TV has a lot of braking power prior to the trailer. That action really increases tongue weight, which decreases FAW and front axle steering and braking ability.
If you have a WDH the dip in the rear suspension will increase the tension and weight transfer, reducing the negative effect on the front axle.
Without one you stand a better chance of the trailer push/pulling you around as the brakes take hold on the TT.
Gdetrailer wrote:
For your information pickup trucks already have MORE weight on the front axle than they do on the rear axle.
In the case of the OPs situation he has even MORE weight on the front axle since it is a DIESEL.
Empty yes, but it doesn't always stay that way. I have never had my FAW be heavier than my RAW once the TT is hooked up (about a 1400lb difference empty). That includes an empty bed and a WDH that puts about 50-60% back on the front.
While manufacturers don't recommend 100% anymore there is still a big benefit to putting it back. Headlights, steering linkage, and brakes are all geared around a specific weight and getting too light effects all of them, especially if you have to slam on the brakes.
Gdetrailer wrote:
Put it this way, if a 3/4 ton pickup can not handle 1000 lbs on the hitch then how do you explain the fact that he was able to tow a 40' 5vr which most likely had a pin weight in excess of 2000 lbs?
1,000lbs several feet behind the axle has a far different effect than 2,000lbs several inches foreword of the rear axle. One decreases front axle weight and one doesn't. One has a big effect on rear and front axle loading driving on an uneven road and one does not.
On my setup my ball/WDH leverage points are 5.5' behind the rear axle, that is a TON of leverage removing weight from the front. There is very little weight in front of the front axle.
I have towed a trailer, non WDH, with about 2K lbs 5' behind the rear axle and I have put 4K lbs in the bed. One made the truck handle different and one did not, can you guess which way?
4K lbs in the bed is easier to handle that 2K behind the bumper, always will be.
This is why there are TW limits of 1,700 and 5er pin weight limits of 5,000 and GN limits of 6,000 on the new Ram pickups.
Gdetrailer wrote:
Using your theory I should not be able to put 2000 lbs plus load in the back of my truck with putting some sort of helper axle and wheels to drag behind my axle..
Same as above, the placement of cargo has different effects on where the weight sits.
Look at the mega cab dodges, ever wonder whey they aren't recommended for slide in campers, or have lower GVWR's for the same setup/wheelbase as a QC LB?? It's about weight placement relative to the axles.
Gdetrailer wrote:
A PROPERLY LOADED AND BALANCED bumper pull trailer WILL NOT SWAY. That is where you SHOULD BE STARTING AT.
Agree completely.
Gdetrailer wrote:
What are YOU going to do when your WD BREAKS during an emergency maneuver?
Is this common? Or is it an issue of undersized WHD setups?
I don't know, serious question.
Gdetrailer wrote:
First rule is to BUY THE PROPER VEHICLE FOR THE LOAD.
Second rule is to PROPERLY BALANCE the trailer.
THIRD rule is to reread the first rule..
Forth rule is once you have got the first three rules right then apply WD and or anti-sway devices.
Fifth rule is to never, ever bet you life on WD or anti-sway devices to make up for ignoring the first three rules since they can break when you need them the most.
I agree completely on having the proper setup being properly loaded, but I don't agree on emergency stopping or your theory on loading. 1K lbs make a big difference on where it sits.
TomG2 wrote:
GM does no "require" a WD hitch with the 2500HD under most conditions, and neither do I.
They may not "require" it, but they do recommend it above 5,000lbs.
