Trailer Sway

[rwj146]

I have a small (18 ft) Terry Resort trailer, it's nothing fancy a 1988 but in good shape. I picked it up in California, combining a visit with a friend and getting this trailer.

I had it loaded wrong and jack-knifed it in the middle of I-10. No one hurt, except my pride and a small ding on the trailer and a large ding on the truck.

I bought a weight distribution hitch (Equalizer Elite w/sway control)and finished the trip home to Ft Worth.

I had the trailer repaired, the dent was small and no structural damage just the metal.

Pulling it home from the repair shop in Oklahoma with the w/d hitch and sway set up I still noticed a small wiggle. Maybe I'm just snake-bit but each wiggle tightened my grip on the wheel.

I plan on some extensive travels until my health grounds me and worrying about another spin-out doesn't help.

Any ideas? or is it just normal?

Thanks

[rwj146]

I had to get the trailer weighed for the Texas inspection/ no inspection determination, it weighs 4020 first weigh, 4040 second weigh.

I haven't gotten the tongue weight checked, That should have been done earlier I now realize.

I did buy one of the cheaper weight distribution hitches but unless I took too many Xanax's it read Equalizer elite.. I will take a picture today when I go put the newly acquired license plate on it.

Many of the trailers heavier components are in the rear, I'll work it out somehow.

[danimal53]

SoundGuy wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
When I was buying my trailer this spring, the dealer told me they give and install a WD hitch with every trailer sold if you don't already have your own. I asked what hitch they installed and was told "an Equal-I-Zer." Fortunately, I asked to see the box the hitch comes in. It was actually a Fastway E2 hitch, which is a weaker Equal-I-Zer knock off.

Not sure I'd agree the Fastway E2 should be described as a "knockoff" - rather it's a simplified, 2 pt sway control version of the original Equal-i-zer which offers 4 pt sway control. The manufacturer Fastway is a wholly owned subsidiary of Progress Mfg which manufactures the Equal-i-zer series of WD hitches. The E2's attraction for many people is simply it's lower price point but that certainly doesn't make it a "knockoff".

I have the E2, and have been very happy with it. I think 4pt sway control is a little overkill for some smaller TTs. E2 has been great for my 17' TT.

[DutchmenSport]

I did not read everyone's responses. Maybe already said, but reading your description, solution is simple. You need more weight on the tongue, less on the tail.

[SoundGuy]

Bobbo wrote:
When I was buying my trailer this spring, the dealer told me they give and install a WD hitch with every trailer sold if you don't already have your own. I asked what hitch they installed and was told "an Equal-I-Zer." Fortunately, I asked to see the box the hitch comes in. It was actually a Fastway E2 hitch, which is a weaker Equal-I-Zer knock off.

Not sure I'd agree the Fastway E2 should be described as a "knockoff" - rather it's a simplified, 2 pt sway control version of the original Equal-i-zer which offers 4 pt sway control. The manufacturer Fastway is a wholly owned subsidiary of Progress Mfg which manufactures the Equal-i-zer series of WD hitches. The E2's attraction for many people is simply it's lower price point but that certainly doesn't make it a "knockoff".

[rexlion]

rwj146 wrote:
This is the exact system I have but mine is branded Equalizer Elite. I will post some pictures later today, the trailer is at the storage area.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49903.html

The hitch you linked to is not an Equal-i-zer brand hitch from Progress Mfg like this genuine Equal-i-zer . The one you linked to shows a unit that distributes weight (but that's all), and has a supplemental friction sway bar (doing all the sway control work) mounted on one side. The Equal-i-zer has square bars that fit into sockets in the head, the sockets are tight enough in the head to provide friction, and the bars ride on L-brackets which provide another friction point on each side. All 4 friction points serve to dampen any sway (oscillation of the trailer) that starts. A flat friction sway bar on the side also does this, but only at one point and only as much friction as you tighten it down to produce; note that in rainy driving the water lubricates this single point, so it must be reset more tightly for those conditions.

But here's the thing: for a trailer to sway, you have a problem. The friction, which dampens the sway, is a safety measure sort of like a band-aid that keeps dirt out of a wound. On a trailer, you need to heal the wound and not just slap on a band-aid. What is the trailer's wound in this metaphor? 99% of the time, it's having improper amount of weight on the hitch. The tongue of the TT needs to have 10% to 15% of the total TT weight resting on the hitch ball. You need to get that trailer tongue weighed, and the TT weighed, as it will be when you are loaded for camping. Then if it does not have 10%-15% on the hitch, you must adjust loading until it does. That is your #1 priority to avoid sway.

When I was young and innocent, I towed a 4x8 utility trailer all over the place to deliver parts (I didn't own a pickup, couldn't afford one). One time I loaded a 9.5' steel backbone in that 8' bed (so it stuck out the back), and I had a negative hitch weight (it was pulling UP on the ball). I was lucky, I managed to drive 3 hours before the trailer almost jackknifed. As you can see, any size trailer is unstable with insufficient weight on the hitch. Of course, the longer the trailer, the longer the lever prying at your hitch ball fulcrum point, so I like to use sway control with any TT over 20' total length. But I've towed 16'-17' trailers hundreds of thousands of miles (for work and play) without sway control... I just make sure they are loaded correctly.

If you have too little weight on the ball, the WD hitch is doing zilch, nada, nothing for you! That one little friction bar on the side is doing all the work of trying to control the sway that an improperly front-to-rear balanced trailer wants to engage in.

What is your tow vehicle? Make sure all tires are set to max psi inflation as indicated on the sidewall; you don't want flexing sidewalls that let your back end move from side to side due to the fulcrum effect of the TT.

[LarryJM]

rwj146 wrote:
This is the exact system I have but mine is branded Equalizer Elite. I will post some pictures later today, the trailer is at the storage area.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49903.html

A lot of knock-offs and wantabes taught themselves as "Equalizer" XXX, but the true "Equal-i-zer" is spelled exactly this way with the dashes and can only be used to describe the true Equal-i-zer WDH/Sway system. The one you showed is the lowest end round bar WDH type system with separate single friction sway bar and is no Equal-i-zer.

Larry

[wing_zealot]

About 15% of the weight of the loaded trailer needs to be tongue weight. So load some heavy stuff as far forward as you can then take the trailer for a drive. If it's not loaded correctly it won't tow correctly.

Sway control is not the answer, tongue weight is the answer. Sway control is the "just in case something goes wrong" backup plan.

[rwj146]

This is the exact system I have but mine is branded Equalizer Elite. I will post some pictures later today, the trailer is at the storage area.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49903.html

[gmw_photos]

I agree with the advice of fixing the sway issue first, then add weight distribution and sway control.

First step is to get accurate weights at the scale. Weight of the truck by itself, then another weight pass over the scale with the trailer hooked up with the weight bars disengaged. Correct the loading to achieve approx 12% to 14% tongue weight.
You'll most likely find it tows correctly then.

Then proceed to WD setup, with the end result goal being a level trailer, and steer axle loads restored to somewhere between 50% and 100%.

[ReneeG]

Our first travel trailer was a 19' Sportsmaster and we were towing with an F150. Our dealership set us up with a weight distributing hitch and anti-sway bar. Never had a problem towing at all. Used the same setup when we switched to an F250 and two different trailers - 25' and 27'. After switching to a 32' trailer we went to a Hensley, but you don't need that with what you've got, but the weight distributing and anti-sway bar for sure. Safe all the way around.

[Bobbo]

The OP may just be repeating what the dealer who sold him the hitch told him. When I was buying my trailer this spring, the dealer told me they give and install a WD hitch with every trailer sold if you don't already have your own. I asked what hitch they installed and was told "an Equal-I-Zer." Fortunately, I asked to see the box the hitch comes in. It was actually a Fastway E2 hitch, which is a weaker Equal-I-Zer knock off. I made it part of the deal to install a Reese Strait-Line Dual Cam hitch.

[WNYBob]

What was said is good advice, but OEM tires and shocks are for a "good squishy" ride, not good for towing. IMO

Look at "E" rated (or higher) LT tires, that have stiffer sidewalls, then better shocks.

[SoundGuy]

bobndot wrote:
There is a Camco elite EQ hitch sold at CW.
Its alot like the round bar Reese Pro series.

So this Camco Elite WD Hitch is not an Equal-i-zer brand WD system but rather a conventional round bar system that requires the use of a stand alone friction sway bar. Sure would help if the OP would be more precise if he expects assistance to improve his towing setup.

[budwich]

post some pictures of your setup with the unit ready to go on level ground. It may help the forum give you some further direction.

[bobndot]

There is a Camco elite EQ hitch sold at CW.
Its alot like the round bar Reese Pro series.
Check the TW ... depending on the TW of your TT, you may or may not really need the WDH. If set up correctly, i don't think it will hurt you to use it.
Take the time to do the following and I think your sway issue will be solved.
IF CW set up your hitch for you, then that might not have been done correctly. ( common occurrence )
I would google the youtube for setting up the Pro Series hitch or use
David's hitch set up.

Having enough TW is the most common cause of trailer sway. Go to a scale and properly weigh the combo. Truck alone-then with WDH - then w/o WDH.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25928885/gotomsg/25929827.cfm#25929827
Other things to consider:
Tire PSI , max the TT and TV PSI .
Hitch set up , learn how to properly set up the hitch. Take measurements of wheel well height, Make sure the TT frame is level to the ground when you redo your hitch set up.