Ultra-Fab Power Twin II Review
Rev 2. More changes coming soon...
Shortly after trading my pop up in for a new TT I was faced with the necessary evil of getting leveling and stabilization gear. My pop up was straight forward because of it's single axle. Back in, install the BAL then lower the stabilizers.
Well, not so with a TT. I compiled a list of my 'perfect' leveling and stabilization after my first few trips out. This is what I came up with:
2X Anderson Levelers @ $80.00 toal
1X JT Strongarm stabilizer, front and back $255.00
1X Bal Xchock dual pack @ $77.00
Total $412.00
Deployment would have required:
1) Parking in the desired spot
2) Move forward
3) Instal Andersons
4) Backup and level
5) Install chocks
6) Unhitch
7) Level front to back
8) Deploy stabs
9) Instal Xchocks
That's a lot of gear to store and deploy for a weekend! Not only would this have been a major undertaking to set up but I felt I would only have given me OK stabilization. 3 kids can really test your patience running in and out of the trailer or twisting in their bunks.
After spending way too many hours scouring forums for what precious little info there was, I came across the Ultra-Fab Power Twin II.
One of the issues with corner mounted stabilizers is that they depend on the trailer frame itself for rigidity. Any flex in this structure will reduce the effectiveness of the stabilizers. In the PTII, both legs are locked together in a single unit that eliminates this issue. It also bears the twisting and compressive forces that would otherwise be transferred to the frame when lifting.
Another stabilizing feature is the triangle design that eliminates side to side movement. The 36" mounting rail they are attached to also spreads the lifting load and reinforces your frame to reduce the likelihood of bending it.
Unlike the Lippert the Powertwin II has a single motor for each leg to lock it in place. Also, unlike the Lippert, motors and parts can be purchased separately from Ultra-Fab. This picture does not show the included motor weather cover.
I gave Ultra-Fab a call and the tech support person spent an inordinate amount of time answering my inane questions. He was extremely patient and gracious, but more importantly, he knew exactly what he was talking about. If you ever had occasion to talk to any tech person in the RV industry, you know why I mention this!
Imagine eliminating all that equipment and setup overhead. With a 6000LB capacity per leg, I can easily level and stabilize the trailer by lifting it just enough to eliminate suspension bounce. All this for only $524.00 more than what I would have paid for all the aforementioned equipment.
I know that last paragraph is equivalent to poking a bear but uh..bear with me. I know TT frames are flexible but the Ultra-Fab displaces the force over 3' per leg and using the proper sequence ensures you will not tweak the frame:
1) Park
2) Unhitch
3) Level front to back
4) Deploy the stabs on the low side until they touch ground, then keep lowering together until you are a titch over level
5) Lower the high side until they touch the ground, then keep lowering until you raise a 1/4" and bring it to level.
By applying lift only to the side, you will not torque the frame. That being said, you have to be reasonable and not lift nore than 2 to 3" otherwise you will be lifting the suspension components, adding their weight to the frame. I pack a piece of 2 X 6" to put under the low side in case I need to go more than 2" but luckily I haven't had to use it my last 8 trips.
Purchasing
The Power Twin II is sold as a single unit, which is one pair of legs. This allows you to mix and match as needed. The PTII comes in 2 sizes to accommodate different trailer heights and frame widths:
The 30" version is for trailers with a frame of width of 48 to 80" and a ground clearance of 20" or more. The frame mounting rail is 36" long.
The 22" version is for trailers with a frame of width of 42 to 77" and a ground clearance of under 20". The frame mounting rail is 30" long.
IMPORTANT!!!
The legs will NOT be directly opposite each other, there will always be a 4" offset. This can work to your advantage or not. Just remember to take this into account when measuring. Here is a top view of the connecting bracket to illustrate this. Also refer to the original picture of the complete assembly.
You also want to place them in such a way that they properly support the weight. I was fortunate in that I was able to locate the front ones halfway between the axle and front of the cabin. Ditto for the rear. So lets go measure!
1) Park your trailer on a level surface and measure the distance from the frame to the ground to determine which model you need, and it's corresponding mounting rail length.
2) Now measure your frame at the 4 locations you plan to mount the legs to make sure you have an unobstructed place to mount the rails. Make sure that this aligns with the other side, noting the 4" offset.
3) Inspect your underbelly carefully to make sure that there are no obstructions such as dump valves or other hardware in the way. If you have to relocate stuff make sure you plan it out carefully. In fact, you might want to do that before ordering to make sure everything goes to plan.
NOTE: I will post exact measuring instructions with pics when I get my trailer back from the dealer.
My project required 2 sets of PTII-30s. Using the "Buy Now" icon on their site presented me with 3 online retailers to choose from. After reviewing the pricing, I decided to go with Adventure RV. My total cost $936 + $110 shipping for the 2 units.
My experience with Adventure RV was not seamless. They only shipped one box and I didn't realize it until I got home. Unfortunately there is no phone support so I called Ultra-Fab and while they had no phone number they graciously offered to intervene. I don't know what they did but I got a call from Adventure RV a few hours later and the missing item was shipped out.
Installation:
Assembly is extremely straight forward. I recommend that you fully assemble the unit but not tighten the bolts or install the motors, then slide the unit under your trailer and double check for interference. In my case I had to take about 15 minutes to move some propane hoses a few inches.
Once clear, I slid the unit under and used the emergency handle to raise the legs until the mounting plate was clamped securely against the gram in the position I needed. All that remained was to use self drilling sheet metal screws to fasten it to the frame. I used an electric drill with a nut driving attachment to complete the job in about 20 minutes.
The electrical is a little more involved. I chose to create a control box rather than mount the switches separately, as recommended. The idea is that I would be able lift 2 legs simultaneously by operating 2 toggles at at a time to minimize over raising one leg and tweaking the frame.
This actually worked better than I expected because I can raise and lower all 4 legs simultaneously, saving me time. Only do this to get to the ground or raise them. Never do this under load because the current draw will probably blow your fuses or overheat something.
The box controls did add a significant amount of installation time and expensive wiring but it is certainly worth it for the added convenience and precision.
I was concerned about the weight I was adding so I weighed all the Ultra-Fab components I installed and all the stuff I took off, such as stabilizers. Using the shipping weight I also factored in the the stuff I would have had to carry. This came out to 245LBS for the PTII-30 - 120 LBS for the stabilizers and additional equipment, resulting in a net weight gain of only 125 LBS.
The ease of installation, deployment, and rock solid stabilization makes this system a no brainer for me. It also eliminated my DWs workload, increasing the systems value that much more for me!
Shortly after trading my pop up in for a new TT I was faced with the necessary evil of getting leveling and stabilization gear. My pop up was straight forward because of it's single axle. Back in, install the BAL then lower the stabilizers.
Well, not so with a TT. I compiled a list of my 'perfect' leveling and stabilization after my first few trips out. This is what I came up with:
2X Anderson Levelers @ $80.00 toal
1X JT Strongarm stabilizer, front and back $255.00
1X Bal Xchock dual pack @ $77.00
Total $412.00
Deployment would have required:
1) Parking in the desired spot
2) Move forward
3) Instal Andersons
4) Backup and level
5) Install chocks
6) Unhitch
7) Level front to back
8) Deploy stabs
9) Instal Xchocks
That's a lot of gear to store and deploy for a weekend! Not only would this have been a major undertaking to set up but I felt I would only have given me OK stabilization. 3 kids can really test your patience running in and out of the trailer or twisting in their bunks.
After spending way too many hours scouring forums for what precious little info there was, I came across the Ultra-Fab Power Twin II.
One of the issues with corner mounted stabilizers is that they depend on the trailer frame itself for rigidity. Any flex in this structure will reduce the effectiveness of the stabilizers. In the PTII, both legs are locked together in a single unit that eliminates this issue. It also bears the twisting and compressive forces that would otherwise be transferred to the frame when lifting.
Another stabilizing feature is the triangle design that eliminates side to side movement. The 36" mounting rail they are attached to also spreads the lifting load and reinforces your frame to reduce the likelihood of bending it.
Unlike the Lippert the Powertwin II has a single motor for each leg to lock it in place. Also, unlike the Lippert, motors and parts can be purchased separately from Ultra-Fab. This picture does not show the included motor weather cover.
I gave Ultra-Fab a call and the tech support person spent an inordinate amount of time answering my inane questions. He was extremely patient and gracious, but more importantly, he knew exactly what he was talking about. If you ever had occasion to talk to any tech person in the RV industry, you know why I mention this!
Imagine eliminating all that equipment and setup overhead. With a 6000LB capacity per leg, I can easily level and stabilize the trailer by lifting it just enough to eliminate suspension bounce. All this for only $524.00 more than what I would have paid for all the aforementioned equipment.
I know that last paragraph is equivalent to poking a bear but uh..bear with me. I know TT frames are flexible but the Ultra-Fab displaces the force over 3' per leg and using the proper sequence ensures you will not tweak the frame:
1) Park
2) Unhitch
3) Level front to back
4) Deploy the stabs on the low side until they touch ground, then keep lowering together until you are a titch over level
5) Lower the high side until they touch the ground, then keep lowering until you raise a 1/4" and bring it to level.
By applying lift only to the side, you will not torque the frame. That being said, you have to be reasonable and not lift nore than 2 to 3" otherwise you will be lifting the suspension components, adding their weight to the frame. I pack a piece of 2 X 6" to put under the low side in case I need to go more than 2" but luckily I haven't had to use it my last 8 trips.
Purchasing
The Power Twin II is sold as a single unit, which is one pair of legs. This allows you to mix and match as needed. The PTII comes in 2 sizes to accommodate different trailer heights and frame widths:
The 30" version is for trailers with a frame of width of 48 to 80" and a ground clearance of 20" or more. The frame mounting rail is 36" long.
The 22" version is for trailers with a frame of width of 42 to 77" and a ground clearance of under 20". The frame mounting rail is 30" long.
IMPORTANT!!!
The legs will NOT be directly opposite each other, there will always be a 4" offset. This can work to your advantage or not. Just remember to take this into account when measuring. Here is a top view of the connecting bracket to illustrate this. Also refer to the original picture of the complete assembly.
You also want to place them in such a way that they properly support the weight. I was fortunate in that I was able to locate the front ones halfway between the axle and front of the cabin. Ditto for the rear. So lets go measure!
1) Park your trailer on a level surface and measure the distance from the frame to the ground to determine which model you need, and it's corresponding mounting rail length.
2) Now measure your frame at the 4 locations you plan to mount the legs to make sure you have an unobstructed place to mount the rails. Make sure that this aligns with the other side, noting the 4" offset.
3) Inspect your underbelly carefully to make sure that there are no obstructions such as dump valves or other hardware in the way. If you have to relocate stuff make sure you plan it out carefully. In fact, you might want to do that before ordering to make sure everything goes to plan.
NOTE: I will post exact measuring instructions with pics when I get my trailer back from the dealer.
My project required 2 sets of PTII-30s. Using the "Buy Now" icon on their site presented me with 3 online retailers to choose from. After reviewing the pricing, I decided to go with Adventure RV. My total cost $936 + $110 shipping for the 2 units.
My experience with Adventure RV was not seamless. They only shipped one box and I didn't realize it until I got home. Unfortunately there is no phone support so I called Ultra-Fab and while they had no phone number they graciously offered to intervene. I don't know what they did but I got a call from Adventure RV a few hours later and the missing item was shipped out.
Installation:
Assembly is extremely straight forward. I recommend that you fully assemble the unit but not tighten the bolts or install the motors, then slide the unit under your trailer and double check for interference. In my case I had to take about 15 minutes to move some propane hoses a few inches.
Once clear, I slid the unit under and used the emergency handle to raise the legs until the mounting plate was clamped securely against the gram in the position I needed. All that remained was to use self drilling sheet metal screws to fasten it to the frame. I used an electric drill with a nut driving attachment to complete the job in about 20 minutes.
The electrical is a little more involved. I chose to create a control box rather than mount the switches separately, as recommended. The idea is that I would be able lift 2 legs simultaneously by operating 2 toggles at at a time to minimize over raising one leg and tweaking the frame.
This actually worked better than I expected because I can raise and lower all 4 legs simultaneously, saving me time. Only do this to get to the ground or raise them. Never do this under load because the current draw will probably blow your fuses or overheat something.
The box controls did add a significant amount of installation time and expensive wiring but it is certainly worth it for the added convenience and precision.
I was concerned about the weight I was adding so I weighed all the Ultra-Fab components I installed and all the stuff I took off, such as stabilizers. Using the shipping weight I also factored in the the stuff I would have had to carry. This came out to 245LBS for the PTII-30 - 120 LBS for the stabilizers and additional equipment, resulting in a net weight gain of only 125 LBS.
The ease of installation, deployment, and rock solid stabilization makes this system a no brainer for me. It also eliminated my DWs workload, increasing the systems value that much more for me!
