Upgraded my tow vehicle, do I still need a WDH?

[Twistedlarch]

Hi all, I just upgraded from a Tacoma to a Tundra. My 21' TT weighs in at 3,725 lbs with a tongue weight of 410 lbs. It squatted my Tacoma pretty good but doesn't seem to phase the Tundra much.

My question is...Do I still need to use the weight distribution hitch?

I found a standard stinger that will also support the anti-sway system and the Tundra has the integrated brake controller with anti-sway built in, will this work or should I still use the WDH?


Thanks!
Brian

[1320Fastback]

Is the 410 tongue weight something you have measured or the factory number?

If it is the factory number it is likely around 600 pounds as they do not include batteries or propane tanks and propane in that figure.

[Grit_dog]

No comment. (But if you read "into" my response, my answer is hidden in there....:W)

[deltabravo]

Twistedlarch wrote:
Hi all, I just upgraded from a Tacoma to a Tundra.
My question is...Do I still need to use the weight distribution hitch?

I'd still use the WD Hitch. It helps improve the ride and handling.

I tow a Nash 17k TT with my dually and still use a WD Hitch. The ride without the WD Hitch is pretty annoying (rough and bouncy)

[TomG2]

Slowmover wrote:

Some guy, huh?

I used to run a DRW Dodge in the oilfield. GCVWR was 20,000-lbs. My loaded trailer —alone — weighed more than that most of the time. Means I was often above 32,000-lbs.

You are just another "Internet expert" as far as I can tell. One who brags about running at nearly double his vehicle's ratings but telling others how to behave. That surely makes you an expert?????

I trust, but verify, what manufacturers recommend for their products more than someone who brags about how he ran overloaded and got by with it. I suppose if you had run triple your ratings it would make you even smarter???

[Huntindog]

First off as has already been said, using WDH generally increases the reciever rating.
Having said that.. A properly setup WD hitch will always result in a better tow.
I am not talking about a normal non eventfull tow... But one in which murhpys law strikes. We have had a couple of those occur to us...But since I am absolutly anal, spending a lot of time on getting the setup perfect.... Everything worked out fine. Otherwise, I probably would have been one of those posters writing about what went wrong for no reason.
I have what many consider to be an overkill lashup. A one ton dually crew cab diesel towing a 11,500 GVW TT. Burt I can feel the difference in a one hole adjustment in my EQUALIZER WD adjustment.

In one incident at night in a new to us area, I was napping, while DW was driving at night. I awoke to her saying oh F oh F. I saw us in a sweeping turn with a speed limit sign of 25 and a glance at what I could see of the speedometer more than double that. we survived as the setup was perfect, The TV/TT act as one unit. Not jacknifing or any other untoward results. The lashup just howled all of the tires equally. It seems that the GPS road program had put her in the wrong lane and directed her onto a clover leaf turnoff... Yeah I know many will critisize this, but in a strange location... It can happen to anyone.. Whether using GPS or not.
The point is that is that sometimes, things go wrong. That is when a properly set up WD system can save your bacon.

It was gratifying to hear DW tell me afterwards that " You have this setup perfect, it did exactly what it needed to do"

[Slowmover]

TomG2 wrote:

Slowmover wrote:


What “Ford says” doesn’t mean much. Never did. Has zero legal or insurance consequences. You own and operate it, you’re the one responsible.

Ford will be happy to hear that they can fire their hundreds of lawyers and engineers based on what some guy on the Internet "thinks" or "feels".

Some guy, huh? Unlike you, one with commercial experience. Where the law obtains is in regards wheel/axle & tire limits. Payload and tow rating are laughable in regards how to use and set a WDH. They don’t apply.

I used to run a DRW Dodge in the oilfield. GCVWR was 20,000-lbs. My loaded trailer —alone — weighed more than that most of the time. Means I was often above 32,000-lbs.

1). Was this a concern to Commercial Vehicle Enforcement?

2). Was this a concern to the weigh stations in Texas and all surrounding states?

3). Was this a concern for insurers covering commercial liability?

4). Was this a concern to the Dodge dealership?

No. Not once. Not ever. Not to anyone with a lick of sense.

That truck & trailer ran roads I’d never take my own down. And it (and its fleet mates) did it for over 300k on average. Without undue wear rates (given how hard we ran; vacationers we weren’t), still, they were done at about 3-3.5/years.

Are you one of those guys wants a guarantee from someone else for your behavior?
Because that’s your argument. If you screw up, it’s Fords fault. Mighty admirable.

But we’ve covered this with you before. Some random guy on the Internet with a make-believe fear. (Failure to think. To investigate).


.

[RandACampin]

You really don't understand the purpose of the WDH.

A WDH has nothing to do with your truck and everything to do with the load carrying capacity of your receiver. Sound like you need to educate yourself on the subject, I suggest going to the manufacturer of your receiver and get the numbers. Then compare to the tongue weight of your trailer.

Most likely you have the standard class III hitch; 5K lbs weight carrying and 10K lbs weight dist. Tongue weight is 500 lbs weight carrying and 1000 lbs weight dist.

[1320Fastback]

Try it without and see how she handles. Make sure to get on the highway and do a few bridge transitions and have a few rigs pass you to get a real life indication of if it's needed or not.

My older bigger toy hauler I used a WDH but the new smaller one it's not needed. Have towed over 6,000 miles this year without one single issue in all kinds of weather on all kinds of roads including that pos 285 out of Carlsbad. That road could be used to check the weld integrity of hitches spring perches!

Anyway give it a shot without and make a choice afterwards.

[TomG2]

Slowmover wrote:


What “Ford says” doesn’t mean much. Never did. Has zero legal or insurance consequences. You own and operate it, you’re the one responsible.

Ford will be happy to hear that they can fire their hundreds of lawyers and engineers based on what some guy on the Internet "thinks" or "feels".

[Slowmover]

You won’t live enough years to have towed the variety of trailers or with the variety of tow vehicles I’ve used. Privately, and commercially.

What “Ford says” doesn’t mean much. Never did. Has zero legal or insurance consequences. You own and operate it, you’re the one responsible.

By the way, once you set that WDH, what was the decrease in braking distance versus the solo (loaded) number?

[TomG2]

Funny that I am first one to mention scale weights and vehicle recommendations. And "I" am the stupid one? Go with your "Feelings" boys.

Here is deal folks. I currently use a weight distributing hitch. Why? Because that is what the scales and Ford dictate. I have towed thousands of miles with and without a WD hitch, both safely and in full control. You guys who have a "Wonky" feeling may have something wrong, or just "Wonky" feelings. If your "feelings" and "fears" point you in one direction or another, go for it. I go with facts and numbers.

[Huntindog]

Slowmover wrote:

TomG2 wrote:
The dealers love selling 75 pounds of iron for $600. WD hitches and their "Required" use developed back in the day when we towed with sedans and station wagons. A modern pickup is much more capable that grandpa's 1958 Buick. Old habits are hard to break though. Sometimes they are still required, often not. What does your truck manufacturer say on the subject?

Having said that, if you think you need something, you need something.

OP, it isn’t worth the waste of time refuting what you can easily prove to yourself. Ignorance and stupidity appear alike at first, luckily one of them has a cure.

That left a mark.:B

[Slowmover]

TomG2 wrote:
The dealers love selling 75 pounds of iron for $600. WD hitches and their "Required" use developed back in the day when we towed with sedans and station wagons. A modern pickup is much more capable that grandpa's 1958 Buick. Old habits are hard to break though. Sometimes they are still required, often not. What does your truck manufacturer say on the subject?

Having said that, if you think you need something, you need something.

OP, it isn’t worth the waste of time refuting what you can easily prove to yourself. Ignorance and stupidity appear alike at first, luckily one of them has a cure.

[Slowmover]

To use WDH, follow the directions in the article at the CAN AM RV website titled, “How to Set Your Torsion Bars”. This is the rough-in. Use a carpenter level across the door threshold and keep the trailer leveling inside the bubble.

At the Cat Scale, one pass with hitch tensioned as per above, then a second with tension fully slack (plus crossing third time solo).

Get tire pressure nailed down at book value.

Ready to test means an easy 1.5-hours to a pull-off with gentlest braking. Ck pressure. A rise of 5-7% above book value is fine. 9% or higher means add some.

The other tests need doing. You may need more weight transferred, or less. It’s “right” when itvtracks on rails. Level trailer is required. Truck may squat (not a problem).

. (An addition to this is headlight height. Go to auto lighting engineer Daniel Sterns website to learn how to correctly aim headlights. Once WD values are as you like them, you need to know how much to adjust lights for correct pattern).

Unlike the others, never assume. TEST & VERIFY.

An annual 3-pass scale verification is a minimum. There will be A RANGE of adjustments to record and keep handy with those scale tickets. Every rig has this range, and it differers slightly for each one.

Take your time. Buy the tools and keep them dedicated to this use. Do the record keeping and testing. It’s only over a hump the first time.

Good luck



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