Scratching my head wondering how so much water could get in after replacing my anode rod and flushing out my water heaterAll seals seem goodOnly logical entry point would be here but seal is still intact Any one else experience this before?Thnx in advanceNolan

Is your trim ring well sealed against the pan with caulking? Otherwise when the anode rod is out and water pours out some of it will get between the pan and trim ring which seals the water heater to the exterior wall.This is not normal or even remotely common.

On our 990, there was a 1/4" crack between the outside wall and the wing that was hidden by both front turnbuckle anchors. Didn't see it until I pulled the sink to get to something and could see light back behind the water heater. But, I think you would have had to turn the water hose spraying straight up at the anchor to get that much water inside.There has to be a crack in the tank seal around the drain or the trim ring.Let us know what you find.

jimh425 wrote:Did you winterize correctly?what's that? I live in san diego county and my camper is stored in and insulated garage.

I was thinking a crack or other small leak unrelated to changing the anode.

Water intrusion after Flushing water heater | Good Sam Community

joeshmoe
Explorer
May 22, 2018
anutami wrote:
This how much junk I flushed out!!!
joeshmoe
Explorer
May 22, 2018
anutami wrote:
Noticed the caulking around the wiring penetrations came loose thinking this may be the issue??? Is the rubber not enough?

The amount of water you have Inside, I wouldn't think could slip past the grommet, unless it was puddling up to that point. I'd bet it's the pan seal or around the anode bung itself.
anutami
Explorer III
May 22, 2018
This how much junk I flushed out!!!
joeshmoe
Explorer
May 22, 2018
Ray used a piece of eternabond. Eternabond to seal WH pan
anutami
Explorer III
May 22, 2018
Noticed the caulking around the wiring penetrations came loose thinking this may be the issue??? Is the rubber not enough?
joeshmoe
Explorer
May 22, 2018
Hey, Nolan

Just changed my anode 2 days ago also, but didn't flush the tank. I try to keep from flooding the pan area as I have the same problem, though not near as bad as yours. The lip of the pan is bent slightly so sealant didn't quite span the gap I think. Been that way from new. Found out when I went to flush the tank the first time. Haven't flushed it since for that reason.

The other possibility is a cracked bung. But as someone said, even the slightest fracture would show up. But you know how plumbing works. lol

The way these water heaters are installed...I'm not impressed.

Maybe scrape that sealant and lay down a nice, thick bead.

anutami wrote:
jimh425 wrote:
Did you winterize correctly?

what's that? I live in san diego county and my camper is stored in and insulated garage.

LoL Not in So Cal.

EDIT:
Whenever I do anything with water on that side, I've made it a habit to go in and check with a flashlight. Ever since the flooding debacle with the tank filler leaking several mini-lakes under the sink cabinet, I don't take any chances.
ardvark
Explorer
May 22, 2018
If that water heater is under pressure, a small crack will look like a pretty obvious leak and Suburban water heaters are not leak prone, in my experience. Infrequently there can be a leak below the anode rod where the pan joins the tank, but those are normally in really old heaters with significant obvious rust.
jimh406
Explorer III
May 22, 2018
I was thinking a crack or other small leak unrelated to changing the anode.
anutami
Explorer III
May 22, 2018
jimh425 wrote:
Did you winterize correctly?

what's that? I live in san diego county and my camper is stored in and insulated garage.
jimh406
Explorer III
May 22, 2018
Did you winterize correctly?