What Size Truck and Engine

APT wrote:
That puts you squarely into 3/4 ton trucks, maybe single rear wheel 1-ton for diesels.

Well, you are so right. But - ain't much sense going SRW when he can gear up for his next one, maybe a 36 footer, for a few dollars more and go DRW!

Now we've got to work with him on his no diesel attitude! :B

Edit: Double post

There are very few half tons that can handle 1400 pounds of pin weight, 200 pounds of 5th wheel receiver, and occupants and cargo inside the cab and bed. Take a look at the tire and loading stickers on the driver's doors as you shop. You'll want at least 2000 pounds of payload, 2500 would be better. That puts you squarely into 3/4 ton trucks, maybe single rear wheel 1-ton for diesels.

Ok, Thanks to all of you for responding and so quickly. I had already convinced myself that I could do this with a half ton and I guess was hoping I would get confirmation of that and reassurance that I was on the right track.

So, you have convinced me; and more importantly, my wife. It is hard to argue with unanimous. 3/4 Ton it is. 1/2 Ton off the table. I like all the comments; braking, tongue weight, payload, tires, future needs, etc..... All make sense...

You probably saved our RV, Truck, My limbs, Wife's limbs and most importantly her cats.

White knuckles is not what I am looking for. DW has already informed me that (her) rv can't travel in the "fast lane"

Thanks again, so much....

Okay, it's unanimous. 3/4 ton minimum! I'm no expert, but I do have all kinds of trailers, from a thousand pounds to 9000, and tow with a half ton, 3/4 ton and dually, gas and 2 diesels. And live at very high altitude. You mentioned mountains. And stopping power. Good thinking. Don't blow it with a half ton. Hope you really enjoy whatever rig you end up getting. :)

A fellow poster on this forum and the Forest River Forum, has a section on his blog called "What Can I Tow". Has some good information in there.

Learn To RV: What Can I Tow?

Take some time to read that. Then, head on over to my blog at the bottom of the screen.

Good luck and happy camping!!

With a 1400# pin weight, you'll be a lot more satisfied with a 3/4T. Heavier tires will be a lot safer. I'm only familiar with GM drive trains so in this line I'd look for a 6.0L gas with the six speed auto, standard 3.73 gear ratio and tow package. This will easily handle up to a 10,000 lb gross 5er.

I have the same engine and tranny with 4.10 gears in my dually. It's right at my max rating for my 13,500 gross 5er. It handles the load without any problems.

As stated already, you'll get that "2footidis" syndrome that most all of us have had :B Buy the truck that will pull your next 5er.

macuser wrote:
Wife and I have NEVER owned an RV but are ready to pull the trigger. Nice thing is, we also don’t have a TV so we get to match our need. We are going to buy a Fifth Wheel with a dry weight between 6500-7500#. Tongue weight will be about 1400#. So, what is the smallest truck we can get WITHOUT putting any undue stress on the TV and having a SAFE pull and of course a SAFE STOP? We do plan on being in the mountains on occasion. Do not want a diesel. Have read about 2007 or newer Tundra 5.7 and Ram 1500 Hemi. We will not be buying new.

Welcome to the forum

Good that you are asking before buying. Many buy first without knowing
the metrics and listen to the salesperson, who is only (generally)
interested in making a sale

Many who bought first before educating themselves too often end up
having to buy higher class TV or smaller trailer. The OEMs and sales folks
love this

First time pickup/SUV/etc owners generally only look at the lowest
class TV, as that is huge compared to their 'car' experiences. Also
confusing is that the bodies (sheetmetal you can see) between the
different classes of TV's look the same from the lowest class (half
ton) to the highest class (1 ton). The difference is underneath the
skin in the frame, drive train, suspension and many etc's

First, decide whether you believe in the OEM ratings/specifications/limits/etc

If not, then do whatever. If still under warranty, note that the OEM
may not provide warranty if they should find out if you went over their
ratings. Many lie and I consider that fraud

If yes, then read up and learn how the OEM's ratings/specifications/limits/etc
work. Many do not understand that in the acronyms (GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, etc)
all have an 'R' in them, which is 'ratings'

Some only come here looking for a 'you are good for it', 'have been
doing that for decades with no problems' or some such and they will
receive many, but note that the only person responsible for the setup
is the driver...not the advisers (would they provide funds to pay for
any over load issue based on their advice?) I do not normally say
'sure you can', nor 'no you can not', but provide the metrics for the
person asking to make up their own minds, as it is they that has to
live with the setup

Here is a diagram that shows how the OEM specifications/ratings/limits/etc
look like in graphical form. That it is a system and to take any one
ratings is out of context. That there is fine print in all OEM specifications/
ratings/limits/etc that modify those numbers

Why it is best to actually weigh your TV and trailer, fully loaded
axle by axle.

Since you do not, then either guess how much they will weigh fully
loaded or use their GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating...this applies
to the trailer too). That would be the limits for each, the TV and trailer



howmuchcanitow

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