Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

[Vintage465]

So I want to offer up this question out about 12v compressor refrigerators. I'm going to post this on other forums too, so your "forum tramps"(like me)may see this spread around some other pages. Not interested in thoughts regarding space savings, preferance due to fear of propane gas or performance of a 12v vs. propane fridge. Taking all those criteria out, we are left with why or why not. Having said all that this is the base of the question: I keep seeing people use the words "boon docking" and "12v compressor fridges" in the same sentance as though there is an advantage to having a 12v fridge while boon docking. I believe that an absorption fridge is the best boon docking choice because propane nearly lasts forever(at least a month) compared to 12v fridges that are dependent on recharging the battery bank daily. When responding...........not interested in anything other than energy sustainability while boon docking. I also am not interested in peoples opinions on performance between the two as I've never had any issue with any absorption fridge keeping things cool event in 110 degree temps. Just energy sustainability while boon docking.

Thanks!

[ktmrfs]

bironacad wrote:
Just purchased a Grand Design TT with a DC fridge. The fridge is 8 cubic feet and It cools down very fast compared to an absorption fridge and you can run it while on the road. The antenna booster draws 1amp while on, the fridge 3. The trailer does come with a 165 watt solar panel. I like the fridge capacity size increase. Thinking of adding another panel and upgrading battery to lithium to run an inverter for AC when required while off grid. I think both have advantages. I started with a pop up, then went with a 28’ fifth wheel, then a 40’ Red Wood, drop down to a hybrid and now have the 200 mk trandscend. Lol heading to Yukon this August and will know much more after that trip. Lol enjoy what you have! And don’t stand with the door open. Play safe.

If the fridge only draws 3A when cooling on 12V it's an outstanding fridge and I'd go for it, that's only 36W. I've never seen a compressor fridge at less than 150W or so. Now if the 3A is 120V, sounds reasonable, but that is about 40A on 12V operation.

[Huntindog]

JRscooby wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Why would ya carry your perishables separately and not put them in the fridge until you get to your destination? :h

Because 1, the fridge in popup is small enough we need a cooler anyway. And mostly I need to plug in to cool, mostly set up, pack fridge, then take camper back down.
They sell food everywhere, so most times we only carry a couple of days.

come along with me, and you will find that it is a LOOOONG trip to get food.

[Huntindog]

ajriding wrote:
Sounds like OP has too much info to be asking opinions...

My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.

With a compressor DC fridge you can park up to 30% off level and the fridge still is fine. That is big for me.

As far as powering a fridge, yes propane can run a fridge a month, that was not a big issue, although use other things and propane goes faster.

For me the solar is enough to keep up, which means I never worry about powering the fridge, there is just always enough power to run it, even parked in the shade. Not a few days, not a week, but indefinitely. Results may vary for users.

Also, finding power for the fridge is 100% in my power. I do not depend on oil being processed to make propane. I can just go find free and available sun. Outside of an EMP, nothing will really stop that as darkness or heavy clouds are not forever.

I have a healthy solar system. My 18 CF fridge performs perfectly on propane or elec. I use elec when under tow, but not because the TV charges the batteries. I pulled the fuse for that. The fridge draws 55 amps from the batteries when it's element is on. My solar takes care of it. At camp it runs on propane. I recently returned from a 4 week boondocking trip on the North Rim. It snowed 6-8" three times. Even the though clouds left after the storm, the snow did not. Solar is no help with that much snow on the roof.I was sure happy to have a propane fridge on that trip.
I always boondock, usually for long periods. And we are not fair weather campers. When we go on a hunt, we are there for the duration, no matter what mother nature throws at us. As long as I have a choice, I will choose a propane fridge

[Fisherguy]

(never mind, started a new thread)
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks and Merry Christmas
Will

[bironacad]

Just purchased a Grand Design TT with a DC fridge. The fridge is 8 cubic feet and It cools down very fast compared to an absorption fridge and you can run it while on the road. The antenna booster draws 1amp while on, the fridge 3. The trailer does come with a 165 watt solar panel. I like the fridge capacity size increase. Thinking of adding another panel and upgrading battery to lithium to run an inverter for AC when required while off grid. I think both have advantages. I started with a pop up, then went with a 28’ fifth wheel, then a 40’ Red Wood, drop down to a hybrid and now have the 200 mk trandscend. Lol heading to Yukon this August and will know much more after that trip. Lol enjoy what you have! And don’t stand with the door open. Play safe.

[StirCrazy]

Grit dog wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

BurbMan wrote:
The question is too general, really...in a Class A MH or Class B van where you have diesel-powered hydronic floor heating using a 12v compressor fridge allows you to skip onboard propane altogether, eliminating a whole mechanical system. On a trailer, you need propane for heat, so going to a 12v compressor fridge doesn't allow you avoid carrying propane.

As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.

hpw are you cooking in that class A or B? still need propane for that unless you have gone to some different style of stove that takes a more expensive fuel.

I'm still trying to figure out how this propane thing is such an expense or hassle or inconvenience that some will go to great lengths to not use it....
Sure, there are different scenarios and setups and different folks camp in different conditions, but speaking for the VAST MAJORITY of RVs and RVers that you see going down the road or in a campground, boondocking or RV park, the simple, easy, effective, economical solution to several "conveniences of home" in a RV is LP powered appliances and items.
I understand and respect those that invest (some decent money and time) in making their systems into something they "want" or will benefit them. Speaking of large battery arrays, inverters, solar, electric appliances, and the things that go along with them.
But I'll never understand folks who are passionate about their opinion, yet not willing to recognize or accept others that they don't personally agree with.

And how easy is it? Unless used for heating, the average LP capacity of, again, the VAST MAJORITY of RVs is enough to run everything you want or need to off of LP, for MONTHS before a refill.
To the point, that in our TC, unless it was cold weather and an extended trip at the same time, I removed one of the 2 LP bottles. Just not needed.

In our current camper, 1 30lber will also run the stove, hot water, fridge for just as long. And I now use the second bottle for a big cooking griddle. Not even sure if I'll refill them for this year, probably enough left to make it 2 years, without touching a thing.

yup I totaly agree, in the 5th two 30lbs bottles last me all summer. the camper I fill the two 20lbs once a year. well I did burn through one bottl last fall but the furnace was running 24/7 for 5 days with temps in the 20's at night. but it kept me warm and thats what it was there for. still 14.99 cdn for 5 days, it cost me 3 bucks a day to heat, have hot water, cook and keep my fridge going..

Steve

[Grit_dog]

StirCrazy wrote:

BurbMan wrote:
The question is too general, really...in a Class A MH or Class B van where you have diesel-powered hydronic floor heating using a 12v compressor fridge allows you to skip onboard propane altogether, eliminating a whole mechanical system. On a trailer, you need propane for heat, so going to a 12v compressor fridge doesn't allow you avoid carrying propane.

As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.

hpw are you cooking in that class A or B? still need propane for that unless you have gone to some different style of stove that takes a more expensive fuel.

I'm still trying to figure out how this propane thing is such an expense or hassle or inconvenience that some will go to great lengths to not use it....
Sure, there are different scenarios and setups and different folks camp in different conditions, but speaking for the VAST MAJORITY of RVs and RVers that you see going down the road or in a campground, boondocking or RV park, the simple, easy, effective, economical solution to several "conveniences of home" in a RV is LP powered appliances and items.
I understand and respect those that invest (some decent money and time) in making their systems into something they "want" or will benefit them. Speaking of large battery arrays, inverters, solar, electric appliances, and the things that go along with them.
But I'll never understand folks who are passionate about their opinion, yet not willing to recognize or accept others that they don't personally agree with.

And how easy is it? Unless used for heating, the average LP capacity of, again, the VAST MAJORITY of RVs is enough to run everything you want or need to off of LP, for MONTHS before a refill.
To the point, that in our TC, unless it was cold weather and an extended trip at the same time, I removed one of the 2 LP bottles. Just not needed.

In our current camper, 1 30lber will also run the stove, hot water, fridge for just as long. And I now use the second bottle for a big cooking griddle. Not even sure if I'll refill them for this year, probably enough left to make it 2 years, without touching a thing.

[Lantley]

There are lots of diesel pushers that are all electric with diesel powered water heaters and heat.
Those coaches also have electric cooktops and ovens.
These so called all electric rigs are a real phenomenom.

[StirCrazy]

BurbMan wrote:
The question is too general, really...in a Class A MH or Class B van where you have diesel-powered hydronic floor heating using a 12v compressor fridge allows you to skip onboard propane altogether, eliminating a whole mechanical system. On a trailer, you need propane for heat, so going to a 12v compressor fridge doesn't allow you avoid carrying propane.

As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.

hpw are you cooking in that class A or B? still need propane for that unless you have gone to some different style of stove that takes a more expensive fuel.

[Vintage465]

Grit dog wrote:

BurbMan wrote:

ajriding wrote:


My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.

Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it

AJ, Yup, not an issue. How often are you parked or driving on slopes that are greater than 6% or 12% grades. Typical absorption fridges are 3&6 degrees max. Yes it happens, but the vast majority of roads and “parking areas” are not steeped than this.

The vast majority of RV-ers won't realize this, but the new absorption fridges are actually very forgiving from a leveling perspective. My family had a shop in the '70's and the older absorption fridges would lock up if they were run for 20 minutes out of level. And by out of level I mean a 1/2 bubble using a bulls eye level in the freezer compartment. The way to fix a locked up fridge was to take it out and turn it upside down for 24 hours........So for me, in my mind, complaining about leveling is a non issue.....but, everyone has their own mind and their own issues...........

[Grit_dog]

BurbMan wrote:

ajriding wrote:


My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.

Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it

AJ, Yup, not an issue. How often are you parked or driving on slopes that are greater than 6% or 12% grades. Typical absorption fridges are 3&6 degrees max. Yes it happens, but the vast majority of roads and “parking areas” are not steeped than this.

[BurbMan]

The question is too general, really...in a Class A MH or Class B van where you have diesel-powered hydronic floor heating using a 12v compressor fridge allows you to skip onboard propane altogether, eliminating a whole mechanical system. On a trailer, you need propane for heat, so going to a 12v compressor fridge doesn't allow you avoid carrying propane.

As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.

[BurbMan]

ajriding wrote:


My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.

Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it

[Grit_dog]

BackOfThePack wrote:
It’s worth taking the thoughts expressed, and — as some have — look at the RV total nights aboard times X-persons without a supply run.

Two weeks?

30-nights?

Build a plan around all capacities.

Factor weather and filtering own water to refill fresh tank.
(Dig a hole to empty black/grey; this is a thought-exercise).

It’ll come down to propane every time.

I'll add, for most RVs, unless camping in weather that requires the furnace to run frequently, propane is the least concern for capacity.
20lb bottle will run a fridge 24/7 and "normal" daily cooking and hot water needs for, Idk how long, but over a month. And most RVs are packing double 20s or 30s.

[BackOfThePack]

It’s worth taking the thoughts expressed, and — as some have — look at the RV total nights aboard times X-persons without a supply run.

Two weeks?

30-nights?

Build a plan around all capacities.

Factor weather and filtering own water to refill fresh tank.
(Dig a hole to empty black/grey; this is a thought-exercise).

It’ll come down to propane every time.

Solar panel ADDITION is nice, but one can beef the TV charging ability to do the same.

A bit of solar. More A-H capacity. And a third propane tank.

You tell us you’ve found great Aunt Mabel’s squirrel stew recipe, we’ll know you’ve found the end.

FWIW, I use a Dometic portable in the big truck as a deep freeze. That’d be worth having while camping (kept in covered pickup bed) where engine-run or solar panel befitted a A VERY LOW USE 12V item (not opened except rarely). Some dry ice goes a very long ways.

All-electric is a lie. Hybrid MIGHT have some kind of future, so look to that way of thinking.

.

.