Will a 3/4 ton do

[rarin_2go]

I have an rv that is at the 14000 GVWR. I need a new tow vehicle and was wondering if a 2500 or 3/4 ton truck would safely tow this. I would appreciate your knowledgeable input on this. Would this being a 5th wheel make a difference?

Thanks

[Grit_dog]

ShinerBock wrote:
Only in the RVnet forum would we boast about our favorite brand’s 3500 DRW being rated to tow more than 4 times its weight yet freak out when someone asks about an 8k lb HD 2500 truck towing 1.75 times its weight.

Lol, true story!
But to be fair to the boasters, they’re generally not the same folks that are freaking out…to their credit of course!

[PA12DRVR]

ShinerBock wrote:
Only in the RVnet forum would we boast about our favorite brand’s 3500 DRW being rated to tow more than 4 times its weight yet freak out when someone asks about an 8k lb HD 2500 truck towing 1.75 times its weight.

Well, technically, that's accurate, but the paradigm is duplicated on other forums that I visit:

- On a hunting forum, apparently Dall Sheep will instantly die and be magically transported to a landing strip if Experienced Hunter X even mentions going hunting, but when Hunter X responds to Newbie Hunter's question of the best method to stalk Dall Sheep, Experienced Hunter X simply states: "You'll never be able to sheep hunt unless you have 20 years experience"....and how pray tell does one get that experience?

- Or on the airplane forum: Some PA-12 driver states: "I've landed on XYZ River Bar a few times, always a bit dicey to touch down soon enough if it's windy." (allegedly) Experienced Pilot X then asserts: "XYZ River Bar looks like it's at least 300' long, any Piper pilot worthy of the name can land there without a problem." PA-12 driver: "Have you ever landed there, particularly when the wind is from the East?" Pilot X: "Well, no, but I've flown over it once." :R

[ShinerBock]

Only in the RVnet forum would we boast about our favorite brand’s 3500 DRW being rated to tow more than 4 times its weight yet freak out when someone asks about an 8k lb HD 2500 truck towing 1.75 times its weight.

[Grit_dog]

Vintage465 wrote:

rarin'2go wrote:
I have an rv that is at the 14000 GVWR. I need a new tow vehicle and was wondering if a 2500 or 3/4 ton truck would safely tow this. I would appreciate your knowledgeable input on this. Would this being a 5th wheel make a difference?

Thanks

If I was going to pull a 14000 pound fiver I'd be going with a 3500 dually. Way Stable that way.............

And yet another valid point made above. The drivers comfort level with a particular setup is absolutely a factor and an important one.
As is duty cycle and also the overall intended use of the vehicle.
No one has an issue buying a weed eater for trimming and a mower for mowing. Why, because they’re both relatively cheap and the advantage of time saved, quality of the end product are a factor but not a financial burden.
A truck, most folks don’t have one truck for running errands, another for towing the boat and another for the big ole honkin camper. Why? Well because most folks don’t have the space or money to have a different vehicle for each day of the week.
Then it becomes a compromise between the 4 things I mentioned. Capability, duty cycle, comfort level and finances/space.

To get back to the original question, it was “would a 2500 do the job?” period. No detailed explanation of the OPs wants/needs/preferences and finances.
And the answer to that question is YES. And to qualify, YES AND safely. End of story.

I’m sorry some don’t understand vehicles enough to know what is safe or not. I understand some don’t have the driving experience to be comfortable utilizing a vehicle closer to its full potential. But the answer doesn’t change.
The thing is, most of the above category folks are simply giving an uneducated opinion.
Would be the same for me with, say, computers. I’m not an IT guy, so when I buy a new computer, I don’t understand all the infinite little intracacies. So I just buy the one with the best or newest processor hoping or knowing it will serve my purpose without any issues. Not the most informed decision, but MY decision.

Here’s where the difference lies. My dumb arse doesn’t get on a computer forum (yawn….) and tell all the tech nerds what computer they should buy and because I buy a ______processor and they don’t, that they’re all wrong.
Why, because I don’t like speculation and I live in a world of defending most every decision with facts….or I’d get fired if I made up stories to suit myself.

Hopefully this is some perspective and food for thought for the folks that think I’m just trolling them. I actually don’t care one bit what your personal opinion or decision is. I’m just trying to provide accurate, succinct correct “help” for those that ask a question and actually admit they don’t know or understand. (Or they wouldn’t be asking the question…)

Cheers dudes!

[Vintage465]

rarin'2go wrote:
I have an rv that is at the 14000 GVWR. I need a new tow vehicle and was wondering if a 2500 or 3/4 ton truck would safely tow this. I would appreciate your knowledgeable input on this. Would this being a 5th wheel make a difference?

Thanks

If I was going to pull a 14000 pound fiver I'd be going with a 3500 dually. Way Stable that way.............

[blt2ski]

Don

The AAM axle house itself ie 11.5 is 12k lbs.
The 10.5 in your burb is about 9000 lbs.
BUT more importantly, the HP torque input ratings are higher. Your engine output would potentially blow up a 10.5" version
Your limits are the springs, tires, rims or possibly the brakes themselves.
If you don't want to drop the rear of the truck as much, put an add a leaf, new pack, timbrens or equal. While the door sticker won't change, you're probably safer, better handling etc.

Marty

[PA12DRVR]

I can't add much to what the esteemed members have already stated except for 3 small tidbits of personal perspective:

- Grew up hauling all sorts of stuff on whatever truck would go and hopefully stop, also hauled all sorts of stuff with the old station wagon with steel bumpers and a big block.
- Will still do the above ^^^ as needed, but if given a choice, I prefer to be within the published ratings of vehicles. Trucks don't magically blow up if one goes over a rating, but just as personal preference I like to stay in said ratings.
- in 2019, bought a new F250 (diesel, CC, 6.5' box). Used it for tows under and over the ratings, nice truck, absolutely no complaints. At the time, the same truck with F350 badging and rating was on the lot for $1,200 more. It was black vs. my preferred slate grey.

Point: I think the OP would be OK with a modern high-spec "3/4 ton" / 25 series. That being said, since 2019, I've had a small twinge of regret over not spending the extra $1,200 and getting (however ephemeral) the extra rating of the F350. If the OP is able to get a modern high-spec SRW 35 series truck for a relatively nominal $ increase, I'd suggest going that route.

[ShinerBock]

If you are person that feels that they have to be within all of the manufacturers numbers even though they are not legally binding to you and are only for the manufacturer to be within outdated US highway truck classes and emissions regulations, then get the 1 ton. If you are not one of these types and have enough common sense and experience to not need stickers like "Do not touch engine fan while engine is on", then any of the current 3/4 tons(which are terms that are outdated as the truck classes) will be fine for a 14k trailer.

I have been pulling a 5th wheel around that weight since I bought my truck new in 2014. I have never felt unsafe, unstable, or any of the other things that these weight police alarmist are telling you what will happen. It only squatted about .5 inch more than a family members 3500 of the same model which is about right seeing that my rear axle weight rating was only 500 lbs less than his while my front axle rating was exactly the same.

[blt2ski]

Adding this for dadof4girls,

Op MAY need said electric semi, he may have to haul 4 kids, there spouses, burb, AND pull 5w trailer!

Yep, it's early AM here on left coast of US.

Marty

[blt2ski]

Using base wieghts of vehicles I've owned in the past. If OP will have 3000-3500 lbs o hitch wieght, 2 passengers, 5w hitch, very few other assorted things in the bed, add say another 750 lbs.
A reg cab 2500 should do the trick. My 81 and 2000 rwd gas rigs were 4800 lbs, today's new trucks are around 1000 lbs heavier...door sticker I had 3800 lbs of payload. Going with axle ratings, another 1200 or so lbs available. Doable, with a reasonably stripped model, assuming payloads are still the same or plus or minus 200 lbs
My 88 gas 4wd ext cab 8' box was 5600 lbs, door sticker payload was 3000 lbs, with again 1200 lbs of axle capacity. Doable, but at max limits for the truck. If you have a diesel in either truck, you've lost an additional 600_1000 lbs of payload, not happening. A sw35 assuming you get some additional springs etc, might be ok. Red with 200 lbs less Tate, 6.5 box another 150 lbs les, might pull it off.
96 SW diesel crew cab 8' box. Moderate options. 6600 empty, 2600 payload door sticker, an additional 1200 or so to axle limits.....not happening!
05 4wd diesel crew cab dually, moderate optioned. 7300 lbs. Another posters letter pkg was 7600, another lower optioned rwd was 7100 lbs. I had 3800 lbs door sticker payload, a whopping 300 more than my 2500s. BUT, axle ratings gave Me another 2600 lbs of pay load. Very doable rig , including a passenger or three.
As another example, bridge law wise, the dw I got 20k on RA, approx 12000 on FA, so legally I could go down the road at 32000gvw. Am I going to recommend this? NO!!!! I'd pull it off wieght wise, BUT I'd have a host of other tickets and fined if pulled over and inspected!
Truck would not stop said wieght from 20ph to 0 in feet needed during a field test, one ticket for failed brake system, low boy to to shop to fix issue, which can't be done.unload rig so I pass LEO coming out to truck to pass breaking test, get my cert to drive truck legally on the road again.
PLUS pay more insurance, as failed brake ticket is a moving violation, vs over wieght ticket a non moving violation. Latter is not reported to DMV to follow my driving record.
So, take your pick as to how you want to operate, which truck chassis you want. If you don't know numbers, ie wieght of truck, options, cab, drivetrain etc you want or need for YOUR task at hand, the real answer as I've stated a few time, is clear as mud.
On the other hand, do diligent homework, understand us and minus of some options, wieght issues, youight pull off using a lighter chassis, OR you may be up a chassis,.if you have 4 teenage kids that in my case were an additional 800 lbs, on top of spouse and my wieghts of 450 combined. New let's add in this trailers 3500 lbs, hitch, a few bikes for kids, two Alaska malamutes at 300 lbs, and I need a class 6 truck as I will need some 6000 lbs of free payload to haul everything
So a 25 might do it, or one may need a 65 equal.
Clear as mud!

Marty

[MFL]

Yes, it is obvious Grit knows more about trucks than you, as do many other members!

The amount of years as a member, has little to do with anything, other than by now, YOU should have learned about class-2, class-3 difference, and what the actual difference is.

Class ratings are for a reason, such as registration, insurance, or for neighborhood restrictions.

Jerry

[BurbMan]

Grit dog wrote:
Since you're about data, what data can you cite that makes the SAME AAM 11.5 axle good for 6k under 1 truck, 7k under another truck and 10k under a third truck actually be "different."

You obviously know more about trucks than I do...I do not know for a fact that the axles on a 2500 and 3500 are the same. I only posted the results from my trip to the scale and compared them to the ratings on my truck and the ratings published for a 2500.

I've been contributing to this forum since 2001, 11+ years before you joined, so if anybody is trolling it's you. The OP asked a question about weights and you're trying your best to turn this into an argument.

I believe that ratings are there for a reason, you obviously think they are concocted for political reasons have have no basis in fact. As my Dad used to say, "You're entitled to your opinion, no matter how wrong it may be."

[Cummins12V98]

S Davis wrote:
If you like messing with your vehicles go 3/4 ton, I towed a 14,000lb gooseneck with a 2013 2500HD and had to add helper springs, upgraded shocks and upgraded tires. My pin weight was over 3000lbs.

Gooseneck trailers have lower pin weight typically around 15%. 14k at 15% is only 2,100#, if your 3k is correct something was not loaded properly.

Many 5er's are 25% pin and that would be 3,500# pin weight.

Best bet if buying new is a RAM/AISIN 3500 LongBed with Factory Rear Air Ride. You will thank me!!!

[Dadoffourgirls]

At least we did not tell him he needed to wait for an electric semi to haul the trailer :W

[Grit_dog]

blt2ski wrote:
Don
If you're 20 lbs over a rating per say, the change that an LEO/CVEO will cite with an over wieght ticket is slim and none, assuming you using the RA numbers mentioned. I've been upwards of 50% over and NOT been given over wieght tickets.
You have to stay under federal bridge law amounts, which is probably 9500-11000 lbs per axle on your truck. Or if majorally over your paid for amount. Even at that, as has happened to me, I got a 10 day raise gvw up 2000 lbs. $15-20 here in Wa St. I was 1200 over paid for total.
As I said earlier in a joke to a degree, the answer to OP, your example, clear as mud!
Do you follow warranty/performance rating? Or legal rating per FBL. If on follows warranty ratings, you'll never be over wieght from a legal standpoint.

Marty

I'll go one step further than what Marty said and say that slim left the room!
There is nothing illegal, at all, about exceeding the mfgs suggested axle ratings on a light duty truck. And I'll eat my shorts if you can break road an bridge axle weight limits in a 3/4 ton truck!
Heck you guys act like they're only good for half of what they're good for in the first place. And I frankly usually don't care and will load a truck up until I can make a 10 ply tire squat, if I need to, and I couldn't even come close to breaking bridge laws!


PS Op will likely be done with this now, and partly my fault, dragging myself into this discussion to disspel the rvnet myths, yet once again! LOL