Winterizing a KZ 16RBT

[JimNH]

we are taking our trailer up to it's winter home at our new seasonal site this weekend on Loon Lake in the Sunapee NH area - hooray! It's the last weekend for camping there, and the person who previously had our site has now vacated it so we can move in. We'll go up Saturday, camp overnight, then winterize on Sunday before leaving.

I plant to drain all the lines and pull the plug on the water heater. do I need to go to the extent of blowing out the lines with an air compressor? I can pick up a small one to do that if so. Probably a good thing to have onboard anyway.

I'll pull the battery and bring it home as well. Also the propane tank I guess...though no harm in leaving it there.

Anything else?

Was wondering if I should cover the roof with a tarp and tie it off to prevent possible leaks from snow pack if that becomes an issue this winter.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

[split44]

Wish I had seen your post earlier...own same trailer for 4 seasons. Too tight to install the bypass, I always just blew the lines out and used 1 gal of antifreeze....it was plenty.

[JimNH]

Updating this for the 2nd year - I just went back up to winterize again for this year. This time I tilted the camper up at the front and drained the water system. i gave up on putting in a water heater bypass, as blowing out the lines worked fine last year. I put antifreeze in the traps. I wish they would let us camp in October, but they have a lot of work to do winterizing the whole place, so I understand.

[JimNH]

Got it - tip it back slightly.

[bikendan]

gwh1bass wrote:
I have bunks both front and rear, so pick your poison for runoff.

run off is worse on front bunk, due to the slope. water is more likely to work its way in.
the rear is less susceptible because it's vertical.

[gwh1bass]

I have bunks both front and rear, so pick your poison for runoff.

[PAThwacker]

JimNH wrote:
Ugh - thanks. I spent some time getting it as level as I could make it. I'll try to get back up there before snow flies to undo my work.

Was anybody up there when you were trying to level? Level is for sleeping and fridge functionality only.

The MO is to have water not runoff over the front bunk seals or for TT slideout seals ect.

I have gutter extensions off my flat roof and try not to allow water infiltration at the AC seal, fridge vent or plumbing vents.

Not only winter but during the rest of year when not camping.

[gwh1bass]

On my hybrid in Michigan which has spent 5 seasons stored outside, I definitely tilt the camper, I use RV antifreeze, hot water tank bypassed and anode left loose.

I put duct tape over the exhaust fan vent, heater intake and out-take, refrigerator panel holes and the screen on the hot water tank exterior panel. I don't want any insect building a nest in these openings before the really cold weather hits.

I have used a RV cover before that someone gave me, though I am not sure how much good it did. Less UV exposure?

I also make sure all the penetrations through the floor are well sealed so no critter can get in.

[JimNH]

Ugh - thanks. I spent some time getting it as level as I could make it. I'll try to get back up there before snow flies to undo my work.

[PAThwacker]

Jim, do not level the camper. Front high to rear or angled to rear is more appropriate. Snow load will be crippling and freezing and thawing a *****. I hope it survives and I have no faith in covers in heavy snow areas.

[JimNH]

well, dammit...not all went well. the bypass kit I bought wouldnt' fit. the foam layer around the HW tank prvented the cold water inlet connection from being able to screw on, and the hot water line in the camper was too short to reach once the 3-way valve was installed on the HW outlet nipple. Putting it back together I cracked the plastic fitting on the HW line and will now need to get a new one. I drained everything and a neighbor at the campground brought a compressor over to blow out all the lines as a backup or precaution, which seemed to work well so I shouldn't be too screwed. I poured anti freeze into the traps. I brought home the battery and propane tank, and hopefully won't have any problems in the spring. I will get some new fittings and try to assemble the bypass and pump suction kits again next time I go up so that it's easier next year...live and learn. I also need to figure out where the closest RV store to the campground is so that I can run go get parts if needed. I know there is one in the Claremont NH area, probably about 10 to 15 minutes away, but I had spent too much time on it today and wanted to come home.

[JimNH]

On my way up to the lake to put the RV to bed. Yesterday I covered the vents with screening, leveled the unit, put on tire covers, and started installing Camco vent covers on top. I also drained the water system from the low point drains, and pulled the water heater plug. Today I have to install the water heater bypass kit and fill with antifreeze. no cover for now. I also got two pails of dessicant to leave out over the winter.

[JimNH]

OK - going to the dealer in the morning to check.

Now - the cover question. Do you guys use them? it is going to be living outside in the winter this year.

[rexlion]

`My KZ Escape 14RB didn't come with a bypass, so I doubt yours did either. But I had the dealer put one on, and it didn't cost much. Well worth it. 1 gallon of the pink stuff was enough for me, but you being up north should probably use 2 gallons any time there has been water in the fresh tank. The reason I say that is, the fresh tank never emptied completely on mine (probably same on yours) and the remaining water (a half gallon or maybe more) will dilute your antifreeze. So, pour in a half gallon, empty as much as possible, then pour in the rest and run it through your lines (minus the bypassed water heater, which you empty by taking out the anode rod).

[JimNH]

OK - I don't know if there is a bypass for the water heater installed. If I can get a kit to do that I will try to go that route. I pick up the trailer from storage later today and will check.