Winterizing

joelc wrote:
A compressor will get rid of most of your water, but to do it right I would also use RV antifreeze. Don't forget to open your low drains and empty your water tank. If it gets really cold where you are use the antifreeze.

clean the lines with air. doesn't need a very large compressor, just want to keep the pressure down to 25-35psi. BUT this will NOT protect any P traps!! that's where you need the RV antifreeze. put some down each P trap.

joelc wrote:

George3037 wrote:
Also not mentioned is to shut off the HW heater switches and empty your HW heater tank. If so equipped, close the inlet and outlet valves and open the bypass line valve. I just winterized my MH, TT, and assisted two friends doing theirs.

Some RV's do not have water by-pass kits intalled at the water heater. A good point made is if you don't have a by-pass installed in your RV,one can be installed. It will save time and increase efficiency if you blow out your system, and if you are using antifreeze save multiple gallons.

I am so glad mine has one. My water heater is tucked in a corner under the stove and there is no way in hell I could get at it to add one without dismantling my kitchen cabinets.

George3037 wrote:
Also not mentioned is to shut off the HW heater switches and empty your HW heater tank. If so equipped, close the inlet and outlet valves and open the bypass line valve. I just winterized my MH, TT, and assisted two friends doing theirs.

Some RV's do not have water by-pass kits intalled at the water heater. A good point made is if you don't have a by-pass installed in your RV,one can be installed. It will save time and increase efficiency if you blow out your system, and if you are using antifreeze save multiple gallons.

afidel wrote:

Bigbird65 wrote:
You need a compressor that you can regulate down to 35 psi.

Why? PEX tubing and valves are rated for 160PSI of water @73F, I use 90 PSI of air which is much gentler and it works just fine.

The tubing is rated at 160 PSI but the crimped and screwed-on connectors are not rated that high. At 90 PSI you can cause a connector to fail. Normal water pressure is between 45-60 PSI so there is no real need for 90 PSI.

Most of us that blow out the lines don't use any antifreeze unless it's to dump some in the P traps.

Also not mentioned is to shut off the HW heater switches and empty your HW heater tank. If so equipped, close the inlet and outlet valves and open the bypass line valve. I just winterized my MH, TT, and assisted two friends doing theirs.

Hi,

There are thousands of RV's that don't have PEX tubing. 35 psi is adequate to the needs.

afidel wrote:
Why? PEX tubing and valves are rated for 160PSI of water @73F, I use 90 PSI of air which is much gentler and it works just fine.

Bigbird65 wrote:
You need a compressor that you can regulate down to 35 psi.

Why? PEX tubing and valves are rated for 160PSI of water @73F, I use 90 PSI of air which is much gentler and it works just fine.

Before I got a pancake compressor I had used a 7 gallon air tank used to top off tires.

joelc wrote:
A compressor will get rid of most of your water, but to do it right I would also use RV antifreeze. Don't forget to open your low drains and empty your water tank. If it gets really cold where you are use the antifreeze.

Another good point. In 5 years of using my air compressor here in North Texas, where it can get down into the teens, I have never had a broken pipe or anything else damaged from freezing. So far so good. I do take my time and don't rush through blow out process. Also, I leave the low point drains open until our first camping trip in the Spring.