Even with extended dually swing-out brackets, I only have about 1.5" of clearance between the fenders of my 2002 Chevy 3500 DRW and the jack posts on my Palomino B1500 TC. The outer duals just rub the jack feet as I back through. There is no room for error.The upside to this is that I can't back in crooked. If I squeak between the jack feet, the camper lands perfectly on the truck every time.The downside to this is it is VERY stressful. If I'm off by even a fraction I could knock the camper off its jacks if I'm not paying attention. Not to mention the excessive body damage.I am considering welding another 2" extension on each swing-out bracket to gain myself some more clearance on the outside.Will the added clearance outside help with loading and unloading?

I've never measured exact clearance between swing out posts and dually fenders on my 2000 Ford F350 and Arctic Fox rig. I know it's not alot of room...I think the basement is even tighter on the wheel well molding on the inside of the truck bed. You'll still need to be closely aligned not to hit those even if you add the bracket extension. Does that make sense?However if the outer duallys rub the jack feet, I would add the welded extension you're talking about. Send some pics once complete!

That would just put more stress on the jack mounts and could cause more wobbling.

No matter how wide a space you have the camper still needs to be centered to get it in the bed. Having such close quarters (I have not even one HALF inch!!)actually forces you to go slow, pay attention and be careful. Personally, I feel it would make it MORE difficult. Good luck though if you decide to do that! :)Dak

MK, im assuming its because your tc is 7.25' instead of 8' . The jacks can't spread out far enough for a dually. Being that the tc is only up in the air for a short time, to load and unload, i don't think the amount of added stress will make a difference. If it were my tc and i knew the corners were solid , i would extend the brackets to gain the extra width. But i would leave it on the truck and not take it on/off unless i had to. Minimize the stress. You must be a pro at this , I would have knocked it over by now . Bob

You could consider the Duh system. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25414866.cfmI used stick on wire holders but the concept still works fine. I have a SRW, so I have a lot more room, but I don't feel like the extra room helps. You are either aligned or not.

Would more room make loading easier or harder?

truckcamperonmy
Explorer
Jul 09, 2013
I've never measured exact clearance between swing out posts and dually fenders on my 2000 Ford F350 and Arctic Fox rig. I know it's not alot of room...I think the basement is even tighter on the wheel well molding on the inside of the truck bed. You'll still need to be closely aligned not to hit those even if you add the bracket extension. Does that make sense?

However if the outer duallys rub the jack feet, I would add the welded extension you're talking about. Send some pics once complete!
mooring_product
Explorer
Jul 09, 2013
That would just put more stress on the jack mounts and could cause more wobbling.
dakonthemountai
Explorer
Jul 09, 2013
No matter how wide a space you have the camper still needs to be centered to get it in the bed. Having such close quarters (I have not even one HALF inch!!)actually forces you to go slow, pay attention and be careful. Personally, I feel it would make it MORE difficult.

Good luck though if you decide to do that! :)

Dak
bobndot
Explorer II
Jul 09, 2013
MK, im assuming its because your tc is 7.25' instead of 8' . The jacks can't spread out far enough for a dually.
Being that the tc is only up in the air for a short time, to load and unload, i don't think the amount of added stress will make a difference.
If it were my tc and i knew the corners were solid , i would extend the brackets to gain the extra width. But i would leave it on the truck and not take it on/off unless i had to. Minimize the stress.
You must be a pro at this , I would have knocked it over by now .

Bob
jimh406
Explorer III
Jul 09, 2013
You could consider the Duh system. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25414866.cfm

I used stick on wire holders but the concept still works fine.

I have a SRW, so I have a lot more room, but I don't feel like the extra room helps. You are either aligned or not.
campn4walleye
Explorer
Jul 09, 2013
I asked this same question last yr when we got our TC.

We have 1/2" clearance on each side. DH just goes slow and continuously checks progress. To me it's stressful, but I've learned to focus on other things and leave him to it. It gets really tricky on unlevel ground, but he does a great job.

Just take your time. Some times he has to swivel a bit after getting one side in.
kohldad
Explorer III
Jul 09, 2013
If I'm off by even a fraction I could knock the camper off its jacks if I'm not paying attention

I think you are suppose to be paying attention when loading the camper.

I don't have that much space either but take it easy and be patient.

I agree, backing the truck under the camper with it supported by those spindly legs is nerve racking.
Rbertalotto
Explorer
Jul 11, 2013
The bigger problem with the jacks for that camper is they have a TriPod base. The feet on the tripod are in the way even when the jack's legs are far enough apart.

I want to convert my jacks to corner mount. Or modify my tripod jacks to be tripodless.....I'd reinforce the top of the jacks with welded gusset plates. Of find a good deal on a set of corner mounts and reinforce the corners of my camper and be done with it.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Jul 11, 2013
Space is tight between the wheel wells, but it's NONEXISTENT at the jack feet. It wouldn't be so bad if the jacks were on the ground, but they're up on 4.5" blocks, and the wheels literally "squeak" through.

I only load and unload the camper once or twice a year. Usually it goes on in May and comes off in September. When it's off it gets lowered on to sawhorses.
okeehandyman
Explorer
Jul 12, 2013
I solved the dually clearance problem by installing a piece of 2 X 2 X14" long square tubing between the brackets and jack on each side. Quick and strong. Just removed the bolts drilled holes in tubing to match the bracket and got longer bolts to replace the originals. To be safe, and because they were readily available,I used some class 8 bolts vs the originals.