All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Tail light issues bobndot wrote: Might be time to go to a body shop and them fabricate a fiberglass cover for the OEM taillight. It can be made to blend the fabrication into the body contour of the motorhome. They can add a new LED light to that fabrication. This is not a bad idea, as long as the cost is reasonable. CharlesinGA wrote: That is the same tail light used on my 2007 Winnebago View. It was made in India. The socket is plastic and chrome plated to be a reflector. I had lots of troubles with the contacts. The bulbs are 1157 bulbs and yes, polishing the contacts carefully, bending the ground contact strip on the side of the hole where the bulb fits (socket is hard brittle plastic, remember) and adding solder to the bulb contacts helps. There is no replacing the socket, as it is the entire light assembly (sans the lens) and it is no longer made. Good luck Charles Sounds like I have the same fixture. The housing is flimsy silver plastic, and the contacts in the light housing itself cannot be replaced, without replacing the entire unit. They are Rinder units, Model# 952-959. They have been discontinued, and are very difficult to find.Re: Tail light issues midnightsadie wrote: I,m 74. been in the auto business for most my life ,never seen a bulb come loose in the socket there spring loaded . push in twist they lock in the socket. I have seen where the glass and the brass come loose and the light still worked . pull the blub all the way out so you have the complete bulb in your hand look at the number and buy a new one. or stop at autozone and they,ll change it for you. We have replaced the bulb several time, with brand new bulbs. I think there is a problem with the bulb sockets.Tail light issuesWe have a Winnebago Outlook 331C. The tail lights use the two filament bulbs that are commonly found in trailer light for the brake and turn signal, plus a single filament bulb for the backup light (refer to the attached picture.) We are having chronic problems with the two filament bulbs coming dislodged, thereby making the brake light and/or the turn signal inoperative. Removing the lens and jiggling the bulb solves the problem, but the problem re-occurs after we get back on the road. IS there any effective solution to this problem? Is there any way to replace these light fixtures with LED fixture? If so, can anyone recommend a specific product? Ideally, I would prefer something that can be surface-mounted, so I don't have to cut holes in the fiberglass for a recessed mounted fixture. Tail light pictureAir conditioner supply shortage?Our AC (A Coleman 48204C866) is apparently pulling too much current from the generator, causing the generator to cut off. Out repair shop recommends a replacement, but said that they cannot get one for us, due to a shortage. Has anyone else had a problem getting new AC units. It looks like the Coleman 48203B876 Mach 3 Plus 13.5K unit would be a good replacement model.Re: Overcab rebuild costWe appreciate all of the replies thus far. Lots of good advice. Please keep them coming!Overcab rebuild costWe have a 2007 Winnebago 331c motorhome. There has been some severe water infiltration in the overcab area. As a result, the wood paneling below the bed and the wood on one side of the interior of the overcab has rotted to the point where it is very spongy. We took it to a nearby dealer. They said the entire overcab area will need to be replaced. Although were were not surprised to hear that it would need to be rebuilt, the quoted price of $10,500 seems a little steep. We plan to get some other estimates, but I wanted to see if this sounds reasonable for others who have had to have similar work performed. This is the first motor home we have owned, so it's difficult for us to jude whether or not this is a reasonable price. Does anyone have any recommendations for a shop or individual who can perform this kind of work? We live in the Northwest Georgia area, only about an hour form the Metro Atlanta area. We are willing to travel up to a few hours if the work can be done for significantly less.Re: P0300 OBD Code, (2006 Chevy Express 3500 chassis) allbrandauto wrote: we have seen random misfires on this vehicle many times with no misfire signs. first thing to do is have somebody run a crankshaft sensor relearn easy to do with right scan tool should be cheap to do You might have a good point about the crankshaft sensor needing reprogramming. I just replaced that sensor a few weeks ago.P0300 OBD Code, (2006 Chevy Express 3500 chassis)We have a Winnebago Outlook 331C Class C with the 2006 Chevy Express 3500 chassis. On a 400 mile round trip over the past few days, we have been getting a check engine light. OBD scan indicates P0300, "Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected." We recently replaced all 8 the spark plug, plug wires, and ignition coils. The plugs were gapped correctly. This evening, I plan to check that all these connections are secure, to rule out something simple. The "Check Engine" light seems to have started flashing just after we filled the gas tank. This Post suggests that it might be bad gas, or gas with insufficient octane. The vehicle manual recommends a minimim of 87 octane, though some say that 89 is better. We therefore decided to alternate between 87 an 89. We also had a brief incident where to coolant temperature gauge got into the red zone, but there were no other indication of overheating , such as smoke or steam. Slowing the vehcle speed remedied the problem quickly. Coolant level seems to be ok. Not sure of this could be related to the misfire code, but I though I would mention it. Another anomaly: the check engine light appears to only light when the vehicle speed exceeds 65mph. It goes off at slower speeds. The OBD "Freeze Frame" indicates the fault occurred at 66mph / 2543rpm. Refer to the following pictures: OBD Code 1 OBD Code 2 Freeze Frame Page 1 Freeze Frame Page 2 Freeze Frame Page 3 Freeze Frame Page 4 Any ideas?Re: Engine will not start (2006 Chevy Express 3500 chassis) allbrandauto wrote: it takes spark fuel and compression to make a engine run. you said fuel pressure was good. start with spark is it good if no spark check all fuses.I have seen wire rub on the frame and blow the coil fuse. Well, I just won the newbie mechanic of the year award. After making arrangements to have the RV towed to my mechanic, I decided to check the fuses one more time, after reading your post. I noticed that the fuse for the Body Control Module (BCM) was missing. I also noticed that a fuse with the same amperage rating was in a slot that was designed "spare" (e.g. a slot should have been empty.) I moved the fuse from the spare slot to the BCM slot. The RV started without a hitch. When I initially noticed that the engine would not start, I checked all the fuses, before I did anything else. I am sure I moved the BCM fuse to the incorrect slot when I did so. We then proceeded to replace the various components that are mentioned in my original post. The fuse was in the BCM slot when the problem surfaced, so clearly, one of the components we replaced was the culprit. However, whenever the original problem was fixed, the engine would not start, because BCM was not receiving any power. Long story short, we have no way of knowing what originally caused the problem. Thank you to everyone who provided input!Re: Engine will not start (2006 Chevy Express 3500 chassis)We checked all of the fuses and relays that could be culprits. They are all fine. I checked each coil with a spark tester; spark is present on all 8 cylinders. We have not done anything to check compression. That is beyond my level of expertise. However, I am not sure what could be causing a compression problem. The engine ran flawlessly for 1400 miles, then decided that it would not start. allbrandauto wrote: it takes spark fuel and compression to make a engine run. you said fuel pressure was good. start with spark is it good if no spark check all fuses.I have seen wire rub on the frame and blow the coil fuse.