All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Awning working backwards after fabric replacementOK, started over and we've got it working...looks like lack of tension was confusing us all along. We did it right the first time but possibly because it had a VERY light fabric on it before, we ended up putting 21 turns on the new heavier fabric for it to roll up. Even then, it needs a little help to get going. Thanks for all the suggestions, I think now replacing the tired old springs would help, but it's functioning. Thanks again, SeannRe: Awning working backwards after fabric replacementI don't know what you're really asking about "help"...tension builds as you wind on more turns...Re: Awning working backwards after fabric replacementI tried them the opposite way, same result.Re: Awning working backwards after fabric replacementThe front spring/cap has the lock (back in it's original place), all marks made before removal are lined up. It's like we're pulling from the wrong side of the tube. It's a mystery.Re: Awning working backwards after fabric replacementThe awning material is wound correctly...over the top of roller, the "backwards" is that the tension is reversed. You have to force the tube to roll up, and it is spring loaded while coming down, exactly opposite to what it should be. I have even tried tensioning the springs backwards, but it's the same result.Re: Intermittent ignition issueChanged that too JNW57 wrote: FUEL PUMP RELAY Re: Intermittent ignition issueThanks...just to be clear, this last hiccup was while the engine was running, 3 hours into the trip. When I changed the module my jobber didn't have proper heat sink compound so I used silicone under it. Could have been the problem, will correct with right stuff. What would you suggest for plug gap? Matt_Colie wrote: Seann, Your coach has GM-HEI. This is a known issue in our community of older GMC coaches. While at passcar loads, HEI cn be reliable, at the loads a motorhome sees it is problematic. The people that do not have problems are all careful to acquire an install genuine Delco modules and coils. If you have to change out the module, there has to be heat-sink compound under it so it can use the distributor to cool it. It is also advised to keep the plug gap short. While HEI was introduced (40+ years ago) with huge gaps, that was soon discovered to be more than the hardware could actually handle long term. Your coach is also old enough to have many other issues. First thing to check always (because it is easy) is fuel at the injectors. Just pop the air filter housing open and look in at the fuel spray. Next, put your meter on the power terminal of the HEI. Unplug it if you have to. But if there is good power there, go on to the last check. Third check, do you have spark. This can be both harmful to the hardware and painful for you if done wrong. Pull off a spark plug boot (pull the boot, not the wire), put a screw driver in there and hold it close to metal. Crank the engine. Do you see/hear good hot spark? Well, there you go. If you have fuel and spark, it should run. Matt If you are not carrying a test light or meter. Get one and have some friend teach you how to do the essential checks. Intermittent ignition issueHi Folks, We have a low mileage '94 Itasca Sunrise, P30/454. Last summer I changed fuel pump/filter and both ignition modules in the distributor when experiencing a "no run" condition that left us stranded/towed. The engine quit while running, as if you had turned the key off. Following the repairs, we travelled to Kentucky and back to Ontario with no problems. First trip out this year however, after about a 3 hour drive, it quit again. I coasted to the roadside, sat for a minute, and it fired right up and got me home. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to buy spare ignition bits to carry as spares... Thanks for any tips, Seann'94 Itasca Sunrise (454) Fuel Pump/Sender MysteryHi Folks, Just had ours towed home last night after quitting (suspected fuel pump)...listened at tank while key was cycled, pump was coming on, and of course it fired right up this morning. We'd been having trouble with the sender reading wrong, chasing the wiring today to see anything bad that could also have affected the pump. Before I drop the tank, how can I test the guage from the unplugged sender end? It's reading "over" full when it's not. 3 wires to sender, black, pink, brown/wh. Thanks, SeannAllison production datesAnyone know if it's possible to date a 542 from the serial #?