lonfu
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I'm stunned!!
Oddly, just before we left yesterday, I opened an letter from good sam. it concerned my tow membership that I've had since the 1980. I'm a lifetime charter member. I usually pay every 5 years. it is up in Nov 2020. Letter said that they NO LONGER COVER MOTORHOME'S. Huh????? so what do they cover??? so I called them and they said that it was an extra $75 to cover moho's. I use to drive for AAA, yeah, like a tow truck. So I'm a bit caught flat footed on the phone, trying to figure out if the woman is kidding or it is a scam. BUT I DIALED HER! I asked what the purpose of the tow service for me if she doesn't cover moho's, as I have 3 of them????? she sputtered a bit and said that they will still cover them i pay the $75 extra. Wait a second, I've paid, in advance until 2020, we have a contract!!! "Oh, no we don't she says, we have a terms of agreement"... I go really??? she says "and that it has been changed"... "Moho's are extra"... So, I says "How can I expect you to honor a future contract if you don't honor our current contract?" "Well that has been changed",she says..... I say" I didn't agree to that!" "hmmmm guess when I get back I'll have to get a refund" as I will not pay more for contract that I already have paid for" I said "don't make any changes now, if there are any problems I'll use my insurance company tow feature while I'm on the road". sounda like Good Sam has becoma BAD SAM!!! So, you if you own a moho, and you have paid for coverage, they will not honor it....And you will be stuck out on the road. Does this mean that all the other services that Good Sam offers can be pulled at the companies whim? Does this mean that the prices of the contracts are now negotiable even after they have been paid for, in advance? Does this mean that the insurance they offer can be raised mid term?2.7KViews0likes19CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
yes, when I replaced the hydraulic booster that was in the instructions to bleed the pow steer pump. No, the problem for me was air trapped in the ABS module.... just couldn't get it out...tech2 scan tool glitch won't allow it to link up. Only 2 years of chevy 97 to mid 99 won't allow link up. Funny how it showed up on the pass front caliper. Drove to town yesterday and no brake drop at stop lights no pump up and it squats when I'm braking. The "slam on the brakes" method seems to be the answer for these year of P30 chassis. get the rear wheels off the ground, 55mph and "slam on the brakes" then re-bleed all 4 wheels. But I'll bet you only get bubble out of the front right caliper!!!!! garry1p wrote: I was having a heck of a time bleeding my brakes until I found the following note after a lot of searching brake problems. "After bleeding the brakes on the P-30 chassis in the normal manner start engine and rotate steering wheel all the way to the stop in each direction two or three times". Made a big difference in my brakes but they never work like a car or pick-up.756Views0likes0CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
Update!!!!! I jacked up the rear of my 98 chevy P30 chassis, put jackstands under the rear axle..... easy peasy with the new 12 ton hydraulic bottle jack that the wife picked up for me at HF. 3 ton jack stands. Ran it up to 55 mph, gave both rears wheels time to get to an even speed, then slammed on the brake as hard as I could.... did this 3 times, then shut it down and brake pedal bled all calipers with the engine off. Nothing new came out of the rear calipers. BUT... GOT SOME AIR BUBBLES FROM THE FRONT RIGHT CALIPER. So, I did it again and got some more air bubbles from the front right caliper...... Third time, no bubbles.... Pedal firmed right up, still just a bit more of a drop to the braking point than I would like, 1 to 1.5 inches, but the pedal doesn't drop, feels squishy or pump up. Poor wifes legs were jelly after pumping the pedal for hour!!! But couldn't have done it without her... and that hydraulic bottle jack... what a cool new tool!! So, drove it up the dirt road across the street, pulled into the sand on the shoulder and slammed on the brakes.... I could feel the front wheels releasing and braking, yeah!!!! did this several times then tested on the pavement. It squats just like is did when it was new!!! Yes, I've had it that long... bad news, the power steer pump is wet on the bottom.... rebuild kit here I come... Lastly, my GM tech2 scan tool, refuses to link up with the ABS module. I checked it on my 96 eldo and it reads it perfectly. It connects with the 7.4L moho engine perfectly. First I went through and pulled all the connectors to check for bent or dirty pins, then cleaned the grounds. No change, no link. When I checked on line other folks were having problems getting their GM tech2 tools to link with Kelsey Hayes 12765501 ABS brake module. So, apparently there is some sort of glitch in the module that prevents it from linking up. These units were used in chevy trucks and P30's 1997 to 1999. The "slam the brakes" method is the only way to bleed these suckers... Thanks for the offer of the wiring schematics. I have a complete chevy shop manual for this moho. It says it should connect, wiring schematic says it should connect.... but doesn't.. why??? I can't say.... Thanks everyone for your help!!748Views0likes0CommentsRe: lower compartment latch or slide bolt replacement
doors open up, latches are on the sides, riveted to the door frame. No room for the latch arm to be removed without disassembling the entire door. Mine have broke both ways, button breaks off or interior of latch breaks and can't be opened. did the same thing to get them open. with the small plate in place it will be a breeze to replace now. I have another moho where the latch is on the bottom, much easier arrangement to repair, but not as waterproof. here is the other thing that made the hole neccessary, the latch is mounted on the inside of the door frame, not the outside. When I reinstalled I mounted it on the outside of the frame, makes no diff in how the door works. wa8yxm wrote: Describe the locks/lathes. Do the doors open UP or Sideways? On my Intruder I have Tri-Mark latches the doors open UP. What happens is the striker bolts break and wont retract when I pull the handle I have been able to slide under. and using a long screwdriver push the striker bolt up (or you can drill a small hole diretly below it in the latch cover plate) . .These are not the world's most secure latches. Once I have the latch apart and all the parts in my hand a METAL SMITH has been able to carve me new ones out of higher quality metal.. This worked, sort of. If Finally figured out how to "mend' em. but then I have limited Smith's training and a very good tool box.250Views0likes0CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
the problem is the scanner won't link so I can't run the test function to clear the air out of the ABS module. I'll look for another plug on the module.I've tried holding the brake pedal down and running the function too, but it keeps saying it won't link to the module. I suspect it is the year of the chassis. 98 chevy 77rollalong wrote: I have used the scanner tool to bleed the abs pump, not sure exactly what it does within the pump. but it does work, then you re bleed the system again after and you should get a hard pedal. This is out of Mitchels on demand 1) raise and support Vechicle. Begin at the right rear wheel. Install clear plastic hose to bleed screw. immerse other end of hose in contaimer that is partially filled with clean brake fluid 2) Open bleed screw 1/2 to 1 full turn. Have assistant slowly depress brake pedal untill reaches full travel. Hold pedal untill bleed screw is closed. Release brake pedal and wait 10 -15 sec. repeat untill clean bubble free brake fluid is present at wheel bleed screw. 3) Check master cylinder every 4-6 strokes of brake pedal to avoid running dry. repeat procedure on left rear, then right front, then left front. after bleeding all 4 wheel go to the next step 4) Using scan tool in function test, run function test 4 times consecutivels while appling the brake pedal firmly. release brake pedal between each test. 5) Rebleed all 4 wheels to remove remaining air from brake system. ensure brake pedal feel is appropriat befor attempting to drive vehicle. Re bleed as nessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.750Views0likes0CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
I haven't replaced any of the brake lines. When under pressure I've checked them for bulges and all seem ok. The are not cracked or heat damaged and do not bulge. rgatijnet1 wrote: Did you change the short rubber brake line at the rear of your chassis at the same time you replaced the two front brake lines?760Views0likes0CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
I was thinking about doing this, but how will that get the air out of the abs module? I was thinking the output lines would work better, what do you think? allbrandauto wrote: run into this problem many times pump brake pedal and hold crack open the lines going into the abs module from master cly.758Views0likes0CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
I've been doing it with the engine off. 77rollalong wrote: The hydro boost does give a sense of a spongy brake, its best not to have the engine running and to pump down the pedal so you have no boost at all when bleeding the brakes, then when you get a hard pedal you know you do indeed have the air out.. with the 4 wheel disk brakes you should not be able to push the pedal down more than an inch or so before it stops.. Years ago i had an old Datsun 510 that i did a master cylinder in, but at the same time added a power brake booster out of a 240Z.. after bleeding the pedal would only drop a 1/2 inch with you foot.. start the motor and i could push the pedal right to the floor with your hand.. it was like driving the school bus i had with air brakes, 4 years later i brought the car in to have a safety check done, and the mechanic came to me after and commented on how well the car stopped..759Views0likes0CommentsRe: ABS module bleed suggestions????
what year of coach do you have? 77rollalong wrote: I have used the scanner tool to bleed the abs pump, not sure exactly what it does within the pump. but it does work, then you re bleed the system again after and you should get a hard pedal. This is out of Mitchels on demand 1) raise and support Vechicle. Begin at the right rear wheel. Install clear plastic hose to bleed screw. immerse other end of hose in contaimer that is partially filled with clean brake fluid 2) Open bleed screw 1/2 to 1 full turn. Have assistant slowly depress brake pedal untill reaches full travel. Hold pedal untill bleed screw is closed. Release brake pedal and wait 10 -15 sec. repeat untill clean bubble free brake fluid is present at wheel bleed screw. 3) Check master cylinder every 4-6 strokes of brake pedal to avoid running dry. repeat procedure on left rear, then right front, then left front. after bleeding all 4 wheel go to the next step 4) Using scan tool in function test, run function test 4 times consecutivels while appling the brake pedal firmly. release brake pedal between each test. 5) Rebleed all 4 wheels to remove remaining air from brake system. ensure brake pedal feel is appropriat befor attempting to drive vehicle. Re bleed as nessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.750Views0likes0CommentsRe: P30 Fuel Pump Service Life?
Thought I'd mention this, dropping the tank is no problem once you get the fuel out of the tank. A floor jack works the best with some 2x6 on the jack, some 4x4's on the floor to lower the tank onto and some clear safety glasses to keep the dirt out of you eyes.958Views0likes0Comments
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