mowdoc
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Re: 5 Star Tuning
I have 5 star in my 2015 Jayco Precept 3 valve 5 speed. There is slight power increase but you would have to pull on a dyno to find it. Throttle response is much improved at low RPM. The HUGE improvement is transmission software. That alone is worth every penny the tuner cost. I can get up to speed much better than before on an entrance ramp because of the tranny.312Views0likes0CommentsRe: towing with Patriot Brake
Your Patriot requires battery power from the toad to work. Unfortunately, most cars 12v outlets do not power up with ign. key in off position or will time off shortly after key off. You need to install, or have installed, a 12v outlet that is live all the time. Plug your Patriot into that and you are ready to go. Most install this full time outlet down by driver feet on the kick panel or e-brake bracket. Remember, the Patriot will require about 4 hours time plugged into a hot outlet in order to recharge it's internal battery. This battery is not used to stop your toad under normal use. It is there to power the brake if the break-away cord is pulled out to power the Patriot while the toad stops itself. If you plug in and take off down the road, the Patriot will work fine but needs a few minutes charging time before emergency power will available.176Views0likes0CommentsRe: Theft: the bad, the bad, and the really bad
Never had anything taken anywhere so far - we do not lock anything either. Chairs and BBQ outside, doors unlocked and yard ornaments displayed. Most of our longer trips are to biker rally's. The longest is Sturgis and we stay in an adult campground with 10,000 other campers. We take off on the bike for a full day of riding and I leave an adult movie playing on outside TV with note that says "close door if raining, beer in cooler and please walk the dog". It's pretty funny to return at end of ride and find a burley biker dude walking my Chihuahua!452Views0likes0CommentsRe: Generator Stalls only while Driving
I just found, and looked at, a service manual. The Onan I have, and prolly yours too, is air cooled and has no temp sensor or way to shut down engine because of heat. The switch we are putting jumpers on is the oil pressure switch, not an oil level switch. Cutting them and splicing them together on the engine side of the cut is simply bypassing them as though they were not there. The controller does not know they are absent. You will see these two small white wires near the lower part of the engine (sump). They are connected to a screw in switch that is sticking out the side of the casting. I cut mine and put spade plugs on them so I can bypass the switch for travel and then plug them in to use the switch for camping. So far - so good.411Views0likes0CommentsRe: Generator Stalls only while Driving
I have zero experience with LP fired gennys but have had three gasoline Onan gensets on my RVs. I suspect the LP units are identical to gasoline ones except the fuel system. OK, the late model coaches with Onan gas gennys are having same symptoms as you are having. They stop running on hard braking and some turns. The units I speak of all have genny mounted on driver side of coach. What we have learned is the oil level slops to the front of the pan during quick stops and the low oil level shut down switch is being activated. We have began slightly overfilling the oil level just a hair above the full mark on the dip stick and this has fixed most problems. You can still trigger the shut down with hard braking but the problem is much better with extra oil in the engine. Some of us have placed jumper wires on the low level switch to bypass it but we have given up the protection Onan built into the genny for low oil level in doing so. We must keep a close eye on oil level this way but our gennys never shut down on the road (because of hard brakes or turning)412Views0likes0CommentsRe: Windy Driving
I've had my new Jayco Precept 35UN for two weeks now. Jayco did a nice job adding some really huge bars on it but it was driving where it wanted to go when I brought it home. The DOT sticker says 90psi front and rear but when I checked tire pressure I found 86 psi with two high quality gauges that agreed. I brought the tire pressure up to 95 psi in all tires and it is a new machine!! I will run it at those pressures but your rig may differ - remember Jayco did some work on the suspension already. Mine is not driving like a car but is much improved with corrected air pressure in the tires. I would start there and see if you get improvement like I did.291Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gas class A advice
I took delivery of a new Jayco Precept 35UN yesterday. I have no experience with it yet but the PDI went very well and things look like they may work. Since I have been shopping for a few weeks I can tell you his only choice in chassis will be Ford F53 for gasoline power. The F53 comes in two versions - 17k lbs. and 22k lbs. GVWR. A 35 footer SHOULD be on the 22k platform. Both will offer a 5k lb. towing capacity for trailer/vehicle towing. My second choice was a 31 foot T30 Itasca. I looked at a lot of units and narrowed them down to these two. I went with the Jayco for cargo space, 22.5 tires, warranty and interior look/feel. Your friend may have much different taste or plans for his use so he needs to pound the pavement and shop. I can tell you if he plans to use this RV in temps above 90f, he will want/need two A/Cs with 50 amp service and that helps narrow down the field a lot. The choices are many and price seems to run very close so shop, shop, shop. I was able to get my new unit out the door taxes paid for right around 2/3 MSRP if that helps him with price. It takes a lot of screaming and trumpeting (like breeding elephants) but the dealer will yield after time. Just gotta keep after him. Use the internet to shop as well. I finally made my deal after I told the dealer there was an identical rig 250 miles away for my price and I had time to go get it there. You are going to hear stories about every brand in a forum, good and bad. Remember most people only make noise over the bad. For every bad unit there are hundreds of good ones made by same company. Most all RVs are built with same components anyway. Look at fit and finish, loose nails/screws, door latch fit and things like that to determine how well the unit was put together. A motorhome experiences many jolts and jars as it travels so things are going to get loose or break. Expect that to happen and be prepared.542Views0likes0CommentsRe: Will Single A/C cut it?
WOW! - thanks for all the support and ideas. To put and end to this story I will say I bought a 36 foot Jayco Precept 35UN with dual A/C and 50 amp service yesterday. It did great on the test drive but ambient was only 86. I suspect it may have trouble as well at higher temps but i can "dump" the vent in bedroom to sleep and pull slides in at night if need be. I came up with a plan to park a cargo trailer so I do have room for this rig at the house now. Cheers!!498Views0likes0CommentsWill Single A/C cut it?
We have been in a 37 foot toy hauler fiver (Keystone Fuzion) for 3 years. Most of the trips we take are extremely hot weather - over 100 degrees. Our toy hauler has two 15k A/C units and can't get more than 20 degrees under ambient. When it is 110 outside it is miserable inside. We are looking at class A RVs now and would rather have one in the 29-31 foot range but those only offer single 13k A/C and 30 amp service. It seems to be around 33 feet where the manufacturers offer dual A/C with 50 amp service. I don't have room to park a 35 footer and a cargo trailer I will need for the toys with a class A. My question is this - - do the 30 foot class A RVs cool well enough with only one small A/C unit?? I hate to spend 90 grand and still be hot. BTW - we are looking at Fleetwood, Winnebago and one Jayco. Any comments are welcome good or bad. Thanks14KViews0likes50CommentsRe: 2014 Keystone Fuzion 331 question - grey tank
The handle by the black tank valve is the gray water from the bath sink and shower. The frame mounted handle near the sewer connect under the side is the gray tank that catches the kitchen sink water. When you are going to dump the tanks, dump the black tank first. Don't rush and give it time to drain. Connect a hose to the black tank flush fitting and let it run full stream for a few minutes to clean the bottom of the tank and flush plumbing involved. Once that tank is empty close it and open both gray tank valves. Also give these time to drain. If you use the "blue stuff" in your black tank it will not cause foul oder. I like to add a small amount of laundry detergent and a cup of bleach to both my gray tanks before use. Just put the soap and bleach down the sink drains with running water to wash it all the way to the tank. When you drain those gray tanks the water will be clear and oder free. It cleans the sewer hose for you too.206Views0likes0Comments
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