All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Gooseneck or 5th wheelAfter looking at it and doing some research, I'm really leaning towards the Anderson Ultimate. If it's rated for 20K, that's more than I'll likely ever be towing and I like the fact that it's easy in/easy out. Any suggestions on bed rails? I've been considering the B&W RVK2500 custom installation kit for the Silverado. I like the fact that I don't have to drill into the frame like is necessary for the universal kits.Re: Gooseneck or 5th wheel Super_Dave wrote: Have you already dismissed the idea of a turnover ball and an Anderson Ultimate Hitch? It's been ideal for me. No, I haven't dismissed it, since I'd never heard of it. :) I just started looking at hitches. I'm new to the 5er market. That looks like a pretty nice setup. So, it allows you to tow both 5th wheel and gooseneck? (not at the same time, of course) How heavy is the base for removal purposes? Thanks.Re: Gooseneck or 5th wheel sayoung wrote: Put one of the underbed rail with turn over gooseball so you have both. Another option is just a turnover ball gooseneck & a B& W Companion that slips into the gooseneck ball shaft. I use a Curt turnover gooseneck with a Curt X-Rail that mounts in the hole and use a B& W Patriot . Really depends on how heavy a 5er your planning on. If real heavy look at the Traiersaver Airride hitches but B&W will take some really heavy ones also. As luck would have it, I was actually looking at the B&W underbed mount gooseneck. I want to get the hitch before I have the bed Line-Xed. Most of the 5ers we've looked at so far are in the 9-11K dry weight range.Re: Gooseneck or 5th wheel schlep1967 wrote: I wouldn't make a decision either way until you pick out the 5th wheel you are buying. Some 5th wheel frame manufacturers will void the warranty with the use of gooseneck adapters. Warranty most likely won't be an issue, since we're looking at buying used. My main concern would be safety. Are the adapter inherently not as safe?Gooseneck or 5th wheelGreetings. We just picked up a 2006 Silverado dually for towing a 5th wheel that we've yet to buy. It has a virgin bed in it, so I have to buy and install a hitch. My question is for people who have had both types. Which do you prefer? I like the idea of a gooseneck, so you have a completely flat bed to haul things, but, you need to buy an adapter for it. It appears to me (being completely inexperienced with 5th wheel trailers) that the 5th wheel hitch would be easier for hookup. However, I'm guessing it's a real bear to get in and out of the truck bed So, before I do either, I thought I'd check with the experts. Thanks.Re: Water heater questionWell, just to post a resolution, I've decided to go ahead and purchase a whole new unit, as suggested by Old-Biscuit. When I thought it through, by the time I replace things on the old unit, I still have a 17 year old water heater with a new tank. BTW, if anyone is interested, the best price I found for my particular tank (GCH10A-4E) was on bestconverter.com. They were $80 cheaper, even when including the shipping, than anyone else, including Ebay.Re: Water heater question Old-Biscuit wrote: WHY are you looking at replacing the tank? Is the tank leaking from any place? Styrofoam is JUST an insulating jacket........spray foam the missing area That 4E model began production in late 2003 and is still the current production model for combo units...yours just has the 'heat exchanger' tube Being the current production model.......all parts are available Styrofoam cover can be replaced Top half.....Atwood 91239 Bottom half....Atwood 91238 Tank...Atwood 91028 Other parts The only reason I was thinking of replacing the tank was to make things easier. I saw that the Styrofoam was available, along with other parts. I was just thinking that, with the tank being 17 years old, maybe I should replace it while I had everything out and not have to mess with it again. Plus it already comes with some of the things I was thinking of replacing (element, pressure valve) in my current tank before I reinstall it. I haven't made a decision yet.Re: Water heater question DFord wrote: Both of these links claim to be selling inner tanks for the 10 gallon Atwood water heater you have. Neither one comes with the black metal face. https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/atwood-water-heater-10-gallon-replacement-inner-tank-for-gch10a-4e-geh16-ext/ https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91060-Water-Heater-Service/dp/B00N4ZFBV6/ Be sure to replace the relief valve. The foam insulation is no big deal, you could use some spray foam to fill the gap. I saw both of those when I was looking for the part. It doesn't look exactly like the front of mine, but I know that they sometimes use stock photos and not the actual part photo. The tank appears to come with a new pressure relief valve, along with the heating element and the wiring box on the back of the element.Re: Water heater question wa8yxm wrote: My 2005 Atwood developed leaks, about 100 of 'em (pin hole size) and I was able to replace JUST THE TANK.. I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly . You can just (As someone said) tape or if you have glue that does not "Eat" the stuff gule it back in place New tank came with new insulation. new element, New mounting hardware. everythign I needed about 200 bucks as I recall but.. that memory is old. The tank number appears to be 91028. Would you know if that is the tank you installed? Does it have the built in heat exchanger that uses the RV's cooling system to heat the water? If so, they still have the on Ebay for $200. Can you tell me what new mounting hardware it had? Does it have the black face plate that screws onto the water heater compartment? Thanks for your help.Water heater questionI have a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 38R. I noticed that I had a leak in the supply line behind the water heater. In the process of removing the water heater, I accidentally broke some of the Styrofoam that surrounds it. I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing it, since it's dated 2002. Before I do, however, I was wondering what material they use in the water heaters? Is it aluminum? If so, I may not need to replace the entire unit if I can repair the Styrofoam. I may go ahead and replace the electric element if I decide to keep it, to avoid having to remove it again in the near future. the model is Atwood GCH10A-4E. It has the heat exchanger built into it. Has anyone done this or is it just better to go ahead and get a new unit? Thanks in advance.
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