All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Ride QualityWhere can I find someone in Oklahoma City area that will replace the shocks on my class c for a reasonable price...or will anyone at all do it. Everywhere I have called said they don't do anything on the chassis. Does that mean it will be hard to get any real maintenance done on the chassis, like maybe a water pump or something else minor. It seems like if you buy a new one the RV dealer will work on the home part, but not the chassis. Ford says they don't. A friend had a minor problem with his cummins diesel motorhome and the estimate to fix it was $27,000, but it turned out all it needed as new fuel filters.Re: Onan generator problemOkay, so my fuel pump filter were original on my Onan 4000 in my class C with 500 hours it so I took it to the only place I could find in the Oklahoma City area and they charged me nearly $900 to replace the fuel pump, filter, an air filter, and a spark plug then load test it. My only problem I was having is that if I parked the RV nose higher than the back, the pump would not pump up enough fuel, but ran fine though loud with central air on. That seems absurd, but their labor rate was $145 per hour. There is a youtube video for how to do it, but at 72 I don't see or work well in dark places where the pump is located or I would have done it myself, but never envisioned a cost like that for an electric fuel pump and a couple of filters.Re: Ride QualityI am glad to hear it is not just my RV going down I-40. There were a few short sections of rough road from south Florida to Oklahoma, but I-40 was terrible. It did not look as bad as some of the other roads I drove 1400 miles on, but easily won the award for the worst. In general my RV was pleasant to drive except for that last 200 miles where it threatened to fall apart on every pavement strip. If I go East again to Fort Smith I might take the old two lane roads to avoid I-40...could not be worse, just slower and more miles. The extra gas required should be small compared to the damage to my RV on I-40.Re: Ride QualityAppreciate it. My solid metal valve extenders bounced back. I do have solid ones. One came unbolted from the tire rim, but the other just bent behind the wheel cover. Arkansas had good roads compared to I-40 from there to Oklahoma City. I have air bags. Maybe I could get by with less air in the duals??Ride QualityI have a 24 foot class C E-350 ford based motorhome. On good roads it rides great. Humps are handled with ease. However, pavement strips feel like 6 inch dropoffs. I just drove from south Florida to mid Oklahoma, and had no complaints until I hit I-40 from Fort Smith, AR to Oklahoma City. I thought my teeth would jar out. I checked my air bag pressure, my tire pressure, no change from leaving Florida. It was so bad that my air valve extenders on my duals actually bounced back behind the wheel covers necessitating my removing the wheel covers to retrieve them back outside the covers to check the tire pressure. Everything was jarring every few feet for 180 miles. There were a few sections that had been repaved, and they were fine. In areas where the blacktop resurfacing was peeling, it was still okay, but those concrete strips were murder. Suggestions on how I can make my RV handle pavement strips better.air bag air valve extensionOkay, I need an air valve extension for my airbag. The hose broke near the original valve. I cut off the bad part and installed the original valve. However, it is now too short to extend outside the body. I bought a 1" extension, but to hold it in place I have to put a nut on the threads. With the nut on, there is not enough thread left for even the air pressure gauge, let alone the compressor hose clamp. I have not found an extension with enough threads to solve my problem. I have to undo the nut holding the valve extension on the outside of the body, check the pressure, air it up if desired then rethread the nut to hold it in place on the outside. I would love to find even a 1" extension with threads all the way. Suggestions?