RayZen
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Need Help Finding Electrical Problem
General Information: a. The RV is an old 1983 Lindy Class C built on a 1983 Chevy van. b. The voltage converter is B-W 3230-UL. c. The fridge is a Dometic model RM663. Description of the problem: There is 12VDC output from the voltage converter’s charger circuit to the house battery and the fridge (they seem to be on the same circuit), when the ignition switch is on, but not when it’s off. So, if we were to pull into a campground and plug into shore power, the fridge would not work and the house battery would quickly run down. Additional Information: 1. Using my VOM, I have found, and checked, the following things for both continuity (while unplugged) and voltage (while plugged in) on both sides of each device: a) a breaker found in the engine compartment, labeled, ‘'Auxiliary Battery, Press to Reset.’ b) a breaker found real close to the battery c) a fuse in the voltage converter 2. When I plug into shore power, I get 110VAC to the voltage converter, I can hear it humming, and I can hear the little relay inside the converter ‘click,’ letting me know that the converter is ‘aware’ that it is switching to 110VAC. All of that seems good and correct. So, any ideas as to why the voltage converter’s charging/refrigerator output circuit would work with the ignition switched on, but not switched off, even though it is plugged into shore power? I don't see why the ignition switch has anything to do with the converter's charging/refrigerator circuit at all, obviously it does, somehow.1.9KViews0likes6CommentsWiring Diagram
The refrigerator isn't coming on, when plugged into 110VAC. I have checked for 12VDC right at the input terminals of the fridge, but there is nothing there, so it's obviously a voltage supply problem to the fridge, not a problem with the fridge, itself. Next, I went to the converter and found that it is putting out the 12VDC like it's supposed to. So far, so good. Finally, I went to the fuse panel on the outside of the RV, but there is no fuse labeled "Reefer" or "Refrigerator." (All of the labelled fuses in the panel were fine, anyway) So now I'm at loss as to how to trace the wiring from the converter to the fridge, itself, since I don't have a wiring diagram for the RV. The owner's manual doesn't include such a wiring diagram. Does such a wiring diagram exist, somewhere? If anyone has one and would be so kind as to snap a picture of it, I would be forever grateful. Or if anyone could guide me to where I might be able to purchase one, that would be likewise appreciated. Thank you.3.2KViews0likes10CommentsRe: Need Advice About Replacing an RV Fridge Thermostat
trailrider:Thanks for that link. I just sent an email off to Andrew in Ontario, so we'll see what he says. NMDriver: Yeah, that might just work. After all, the thermostat is just a temperature-controlled switch, so I guess the underlying mechanism shouldn't matter. I suppose the old thermostat's capillary tube probably had gas in it; dunno. But I would much rather have only a wire going from the front panel thermostat switch up to the back of the fridge than another fragile capillary tube that is susceptible to being broken like the old one. If anyone else has any thoughts on this, please chime in!391Views0likes0CommentsNeed Advice About Replacing an RV Fridge Thermostat
While replacing the cooling unity on my old Dometic RM663 refrigerator, I accidentally broke the capillary tube. One step forward, one step back. So I have a couple of questions: 1) Does anyone have a good recommendation as to where I can buy a new one? 2) Any tips on replacing it? (e.g., do I need to keep the capillary tube away from any surfaces? Is the length of the attached capillary tube critical. On the old one, the capillary tube excess was coiled into several coils, so I doubt that it matters, as long as it reached the back of the fridge's food compartment, of course. 3) I have looked & looked online, but can't find an exact match for the thermostat's model no. (Ranco K50 P1257), so is there a cross reference somewhere that I can use to find a substitute? Any help would be greatly appreciated.1.6KViews0likes4CommentsNeed a Couple of Close-Up Pictures...Please!
Okay, this is a long shot, but I'll give it a try, anyway. I need some good, clear pictures of the back of an old Dometic model 663 refrigerator. I found the PDF of the Dometic service manual which was kindly placed online to help others, and it is a great aid, but the pictures are unreadable/unviewable. While replacing the cooling unit on my Dometic 663, two things happened which now leave me trying to figure out how to get them back together again: 1) a small wire leading from the black piezoelectric block on the circuit board accidentally pulled loose while I was replacing the fridge, and I can't see where it goes. One end, for sure, goes on the black piezoelectric block, as stated, but I can't, for the life of me, see any place where the other end goes, except probably where there is a row of connection terminals on the printed circuit board, but I don't know which one of the empty slots it would be. 2) When removing the old cooling unit, I had to undo the boiler/chimney assembly, in order to pull the gas ignition unit away. But, as I was disassembling it, the sheet metal parts that hold the electric heaters up in the boiler chimney fell apart into my hands, before I could really see just how they were arranged. I should've taken a picture, but what's that they say about hindsight being better than foresight? I actually did take a couple of pictures, but of the wrong areas. If anyone has one of these old Dometic 663's and would be so kind as to take a quick close-up picture of the back of it, and then send it to me, I would be very grateful. Or, if there is somewhere online that has such a picture, I would appreciate being steered in that direction. I have tried 'Googling' for such images, but haven't been successful, yet1.4KViews0likes3CommentsNeed Some Advice Re. RV Refridgerator
I just need a recommendation—but not an unbased opinion--about a problem that I’m experiencing. A little background: We own an old 1986 RV that has a Dometic fridge in it. The fridge has always worked great, but a couple of weeks ago, it gave up the ghost and I started to smell ammonia, which, of course, means that the cooling unit leaks. After researching it online, I realized that it’s not too difficult to replace the cooling unit, if I were to get one. So I pulled the fridge from the RV, removed the cooling unit, and am now thinking about whether or not to order a rebuilt one online. New fridges are about $1,500, which is a big chunk of change, compared to the $450 that I would have to spend on a rebuilt cooling unit which comes with a two-year warranty. I have been told by two RV supply stores that it’s not a good idea to spend money on an old fridge, because it will just become a money sinkhole, kinda like the proverbial idea of ‘putting new wine into old skins.’ However, bear in mind that both of these comments came from those who would love to sell me a $1,500 new fridge; not exactly unbiased sources of recommendations. So my question: Based on your experience (not your opinion), should I go ahead and order the cooling unit, thereby saving myself about $1,000 or just bite a bullet and order a brand-new fridge? Are those dealers right in saying that it’s not a good policy to repair the old one? Obviously, old fridges can become begin to become troublesome, but I would like to know—once again, from experience, not opinion—whether or not putting a rebuilt cooling unit has worked for those who have tried it. Thank you for your time in reading this lengthy post.3.5KViews0likes14CommentsKeeping Out Rats and Mice
Recently, I read one suggestion about how to keep mice & rats from entering an RV; it consisted of placing metal ducting around each tire. The idea is that the ducting is too slick for them to climb and too high for them to jump onto. Being placed around each tire, it prevents them from climbing up the tire treads, then into the RV via whatever entrance they can find. However, the person who posted this excellent-sounding idea didn't really give any details about just what kind of ducting he was talking about, other than saying that he got it at Lowe's. Does anyone on this forum have any experience with this method? If so, I would appreciate hearing from you as to just what kind of ducting is being used, here, and exactly how it is done. Any help would be much appreciated.2.7KViews0likes10Comments
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