All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Pride Advantage Card at Petro Pass Cardlocks J-Rooster wrote: 2oldman wrote: My Pacific Pride card ended up in the trash after they had so much trouble e-billing me they simply quit doing it. I hope you have better luck. X-2, we had the same problem with billing! But I did use my PP card in Canada with success in the past. Just curious... Did you use it at Petro Pass (cardlock) location? And did you use a Pride Advantage or PrideLock card? They switched over to Pride Advantage about 18 months ago and I'm trying to specifically find out if the Pride Advantage Card is working at Petro Pass Cardlock locations now.Pride Advantage Card at Petro Pass CardlocksI have a Pride Advantage Card (Pacific Pride thru Pioneer Fuel) and will be traveling thru Canada in a couple of weeks. The Petro Canada Website under Petro Pass Cardlock site page - say they accept Pacific Pride Cards. I am wondering if any one out there that has a Pride Advantage Card (it replaced the Pridelock cards) and has used it at any of the Canadian Petro Pass Cardlock locations.Re: SuperTruss Extension Removal QuestionThanks for all of the replies. I haven't tightened the bolts until it was in the hitch, but even before I tightened them - it was impossible to pull out as a unit. I did have a bit of a defective U-Connector though. One of them had too tight of a radius and would not sit flush on the upper tube. Long story short - I think this is causing some torque to be applied between the two tubes and the receiver to lock it in place. I've discussed it with Torklift and sent them some pictures and they got right back to me that they are going to send me a new u-connector and shim plates. Hopefully when they arrive it should solve the issue. Once I get them I'll post back how it turns out. I'm also thinking that perhaps it would be easier to remove once its used a time or two and "broken in" with rubbing off some of the paint?SuperTruss Extension Removal QuestionHey Folks. Those of you experienced in the use of the Super Hitch SuperTruss Extension… I just put mine together today. It seems impossible to get it out of the receiver unless I loosen up all the bolts on the U Brackets and then slide each tube out separately. Trying to do them both at the same time… ugggg I can wiggle them a bit up and down while I try to pull them out - but the don't seem to budge. I thought perhaps I'd sand the paint off of the tubes where they enter the receiver and perhaps see what I could do inside the receiver as well - but before I go nuts… Is it normal to have to loosen up the whole assembly to remove it? Anybody able to keep theirs all torqued up and side it in and out? A quick attach of the chains and tighten the turnbuckles and you are ready to go???Cost of TC plus Ancillary EquipmentHey Folks, I currently have a 37' 5'ver pulled by a F350 Dually longbed. I want to get a truck camper (wife won the battle over the 5'vr years ago) so that we can do some smaller campgrounds, pull the boat sometimes... you know add that dimension to our RVing that we cant do with the 5'ver. We'll keep the 5'ver but have the TC as well. Anyway... looking at the list prices of a Lance or Arctic Fox in the size etc we want - they seem to be in the $30K range. Two questions: 1 What do you find to be the average discount off of the asking price. On 5'vers I've always gotten somewhere in the 20-30% range off the asking price. 2 What would be the expected cost to get the truck set up to carry it? I'm guessing I need air bags, and the tiedowns etc. I understand there is a wide range of possible cost options - just looking for some ideas. oh - and my hitch lifts out leaving my bed flat so that is not a problem. ThanksRe: Do you jack up your 5th wheel with the landing gear down? TubaPete wrote: "Do you jack up your 5th wheel with the landing gear down?" Yes. I know one side gets a lot more weight than the other, but these things do have a margin of error (safety factor) built in. Just curious... what engineering documents and/or technical specifications for the OP's specific landing gear did you consult before you advised him that his landing gear had a built in safety factor? If none - then where did you get that knowledge to pass along as fact, that he was safe jacking the trailer while supported on his specific make of landing gear? I mean come on... We constantly hear about broken frames, blown tires, busted springs and axles etc. Seems to me that safety margin went the way of the dinosaurs. Responsible advice is to play it safe and hook up.Re: x-chock Tire Locking ChockI had a pair of x chocks and stopped using them. I became concerned about the force it exerts on the axles pushing them in different directions and the effect it might have on alignment of the axles. Later when I started having wear issues I had the alignment checked and my axles were indeed 1/4" mis aligned. jus sayin...Re: Whats Your Real Weights? Truck and Trailer. The Real Deal bigdaddy51200 wrote: All right I have never got the weights of a trailer before . But I just bought a 2011 Sierra 356RL Forest River says the dry weight is 11,118 pounds with hitch at 2,154 , & GVWR 14,154 . I can't find the specs for my 2001 F250 V10 with a 15k Reece hitch with max pin weight of 3,000. So what is the proper method for getting the weights on a CAT Scale ?? You want to weigh the Ford first. Preferably in your travel configuration. Full Fuel, Mama, the dogs etc. Put one axle on each scale platform. When you run up on the scale you will see how to do it. Most scales are 3 separate scales. There is a button to call inside to tell them to weigh you. They will ask for your trailer number - I just tell them "private vehicle" Then run back across the scale with the trailer attached. Put each of the Fords axles on a separate platform and the trailer axle on the 3rd by itself. That is the simple way. Some folks might say to do the same thing but only one side of the trailer on the scale at a time so that you can weigh the port and starboard (whoops I mean right and left) sides. Many scales are situated so that this is impossible. If you at least do it the simple way that I suggested you can then figure out your pin or tongue weight, your trucks weight etc. You can also run the trailer axles onto different platforms so as to get the separate axle weights but I also think this is overkill. Hope this helpsRe: Whats Your Real Weights? Truck and Trailer. The Real DealTV: 2011 Ford F250 4x4 6.7 PSD Loaded Weight (w/o trailer) 8280# GVWR 10,000# 5er: 2011 Keystone Cougar 245RKS Normal Loaded wt 8,500# GVWR 9,855# Pin Wt: 1,280 (15% of total) So GVW of TV is 9,560# (under GVWR) Axle Wt of 5er is 7,220# 4 tires Load range D=10160# so I'm at approx 71% of tire rating (going to switch to load range E anyway for more peace of mind and be at 64% of max) GCW is 16,780. Well be the GCWR of 23,500# Truck is registered in NC ("Weighted" Plates) with Gross Wt of 18,000# so I'm safe from that standpoint too. Plenty of truck for the little trailer. My only area of concern are the China Bombs. Going to put Maxxis on this spring.
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