97 Ford 460 issues
I have a 97 Fleetwood pace arrow vision on the Ford F53 chassis with the 460 v8 gas engine. 33k miles on rig. New aluminum 80 gallon fuel tank and FoMoCo sourced fuel pump. After driving for roughly 2 hours I lose power and can't get over 2k rpms without the engine bucking and shaking, if I continue the check engine light will come on. If I shut off the engine for a minute or more all is normal again after restart though for how long varies. I did have a problem with the distributer bolt being loose and the timing getting messed up which I set as well as I could as due to the design of the dog house I can't get anywhere near seeing the timing marks without putting my face into a spinning fan blade. If anyone has a suggestion on how to fix that issue also I'd appreciate it. Oh before anyone asks the rig is OBD1 even though it's a 97 so pulling a code without the check engine light on doesn't work
Alternative satellite option?
I’m curious if, in addition to a mounted satellite on top of your rig, you also have a portable unit for use when your mounted antenna can’t get a signal when obstructed by trees, etc. ? As somewhat of a newbie, not sure going to the expense is a common solution, and wanted to inquire...
When were DPF and DEF introduced on RV diesels?
I had thought about going a few years newer, replacing my 2006 Holiday Ambassador 40' PLQ. But then I thought about emission equipment such as DPF and DEF engines. What years did manufacturers start using these? I had also heard that Tiffin, among others bought a bunch of earlier engines to forestall the equipment another year or so. Then I started checking other brands--Tiffin-- roof rail replacement and some rotten floor issues. Newmar--fiberglass cracks Then I started getting cold feet. I have had pretty good luck with my rig. Biggest problems were leaks which it took awhile to fix. Roof caulking and driver window regasket, mainly. So should I "hold em" or "fold em"???
How much does a new engine cost?
In class a couple of weeks ago, the instructor told us that an ISX 15 engine alone costs about $75,000. He said the transmission is about $25,000. Told us the K3 chassis retails for $250,000. I couldn't believe how expensive it is so I tried looking it up on the interwebs. Couldn't find any clue. Do any of you know how much new Cummins engines cost? ISX15, ISX12, ISL9, ISB6.7, ISV5.0 -- doesn't matter, I'm just curious. I have no other point to make with this post. I love my engine and everything runs fine. No complaints at all. I'm simply curious how much these things cost OEM.
Shower Drain Hepvo Valve
Well, I did it this time... I didn't realize my shower was protected by a Hepvo valve, and I used a wire to clear a hair clog. And, I tore the whole valve out of the pipe. Problem is that there is no room to replace it under the shower. There's only 3/4 inch space between the floor and valve, and same between the shower floor and valve. Can't fit a strap wrench on it, there's no way to turn it even if I could. Had an RV repair guy look at it, and he confirmed that I'd have to remove the entire shower to replace this piece. With this valve missing, the smell is terrible while showering. Question: Is there any other type of valve that I could install at the top of the shower drain? Maybe in the catch basket before the water goes down the pipe? Anyone have a suggestion?Automatic Retracting Steps help
The automatic steps on my RV extended today when I started the MH. It's a 2013 Fleetwood Bounder Classic, that I've had for 2 years now and even drove just 2 weeks ago for 800miles with no problems, and I haven't done anything that I can think of that would have changed how they should behave. If I turn off the engine the steps extend and retract with the door opening and closing like they should so I think the magnetic switch is working, and if I turn the switch for the steps they will stay extended like they are supposed to no mater the door position as long as the key is out. So why when I now, this week try to drive it I can turn off the steps switch so the steps retract when I shut the door, but I turn the key on and the steps extended. I won't be near the RV till tomorrow but looking for some ideas to look for when I get to it tomorrow. I got them to retract by closing the door with the key out and then disconnected the Power junction (4 wires I think), and that kept them up to drive, but I had to leap into the MH to get to where I needed to go. I'm good with a multi-meter but not sure where to start looking or what color wire does what. Sorry I don't know the brand and didn't see a label but I was in a hurry. Thanks in advance, Brian
Splendide dryer solution?
To all who have experienced shut-down during the drying cycle I have some info. Ours was caused by a buildup of damp lint in the dryer discharge passage. Not the flex vent hose but just inside the machine, about five inches down from where the hose attaches. I was able to extract the lint "balls" with a hook I bent from a section of wire coat hanger. It works fine now but I've been wondering why it happens. It may be a design flaw, there is a sharp 90 degree bend the dryer air must make or, we may be the cause of the problem by the procedure we follow when drying. We have always pulled the clothes out while still damp and hung them to lessen wrinkles. This may allow the wet lint a chance to gather as opposed to drying and blowing out the vent hose. We are still removing our clothes but letting the dryer run to complete the cycle. Let's hope this works! Bob