waynec1957
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Re: Diesel vs gas......................
I just finished my first year of owning my first diesel. I never thought I was going to be saving money over a gas engine when I bought it. I bought it for the power, the torque, the overall towing experience (especially the exhaust brake in the mountains), and longevity. So far it hasn't let me down. Everyone is different though. Otherwise they'd only make one kind of truck.347Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hensley/Propride over tongue weight ratings.
CampingN.C. wrote: I'm currently doing a LOT of homework on the Hensley and Propride and one question I've got is the tongue rating for both. My Jayco sits a 1350# on the tongue already (without LP when weighed). Add the hitch itself and full propane and I'll be a good bit over the 1400# rating. Of course reps from both companies say I'll be fine but I would to hear from 'actual owners' who are towing heavy with these. Something about spending that kind of coin and be over the ratings on day one doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy. I've talked to the folks at Hensley and PP both about this issue. From what I can tell TW doesn't/won't affect how either hitch performs because neither works off friction (as far as preventing sway) like other WD hitches. My concern, and something I can't get a real straight answer to, is would TW over the 1,400 lb limit on either hitch cause problems structurally (not performance wise) for the hitch? By that I mean, would 1,400 lbs plus TW cause the hitch or its components to fail over time? They can't really say that it won't for liability reasons, but the impression I get is there is some number between the 1,400 lb limit and who knows what where there shouldn't be any structural issues. Whether that's 1,450 lbs or 1,800 lbs is anybody's guess.323Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2014 Ultimate 1 Ton Challenge results
4x4ord wrote: waynec1957 wrote: Personally... I think this discussion proves what we all already know. Most people, with a few exceptions, drive what they like. The only Ford I've ever owned was an old Econoline van. Ford's are just not my thing. I don't like the way the new trucks look and their noisier than they have to be. I had a 94' 1500 Dodge Ram. Bought it because (1) the GM dealer PO'ed me the day I went to buy a new truck and I liked the new Dodge body style. But it had a HUGE blind spot on the passenger side windshield post, it never rode as good as my GM trucks, and the transmission went out of it at less than 10k miles. On the new ones, the tow mirrors coming at you remind me of Bullwinkle moose. And Rams are also noisier than they have to be. Other than those things, I wouldn't be afraid to hook up with anyone of them and do what this test did. Performance wise, there's not a nickel's difference between the three. The rest of it, IMHO, is brand loyalty and personal preference. If you have actually came close to a new Ford that was running you likely assumed it was shut off. They are extremely quiet. While both cruising and under full acceleration the Ford interior is quieter than a Lexus sedan. I've never been in the cab of a new Dodge or Ford, so I don't know what they're like inside. But I don't always drive with my windows rolled up and when I set next to either one at a stop light I can't hear my Duramax running over them. And if you're standing behind my Duramax, the only way you know it's running is the heat coming from the exhaust. Again..it's a Preference thing, and maybe a perception thing. I read in another thread where someone said the Ram is the only truck left that sounds like a truck. But as far as performance, I don't think there's a nickel's difference between any of them.297Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2014 Ultimate 1 Ton Challenge results
Personally... I think this discussion proves what we all already know. Most people, with a few exceptions, drive what they like. The only Ford I've ever owned was an old Econoline van. Ford's are just not my thing. I don't like the way the new trucks look and their noisier than they have to be. I had a 94' 1500 Dodge Ram. Bought it because (1) the GM dealer PO'ed me the day I went to buy a new truck and I liked the new Dodge body style. But it had a HUGE blind spot on the passenger side windshield post, it never rode as good as my GM trucks, and the transmission went out of it at less than 10k miles. On the new ones, the tow mirrors coming at you remind me of Bullwinkle moose. And Rams are also noisier than they have to be. Other than those things, I wouldn't be afraid to hook up with anyone of them and do what this test did. Performance wise, there's not a nickel's difference between the three. The rest of it, IMHO, is brand loyalty and personal preference.148Views0likes0CommentsRe: It's not just GM with bad ignition switches!
Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote: NashTT wrote: I believe the supplier of the switches, Delphi, is the same one that GM used. Yes that is correct, however they my also supply Chrysler. My plant used to built power steering pumps, master cylinders and wheel cylinders for GM from about 1969 through the mid eighties. So it is very possible that Delphi built our switches. Don I retired from Delphi (formerly Delco Electronics/GM) after 30 years. Prior to 1998 we made electronics exclusively for GM. After 98 when GM spun off Delphi we gradually started to make components for different companies. By 2006 when they did the bankruptcy Delphi was making components for all the Big Three, Toyota, Subaru, Honda, Harley Davidson, and a few others. But...since the bankruptcy (which was a sham) very little of this stuff is made in the U.S. From what I can find out, most of the switches GM recalled were made by Delphi in Mexico and Singapore. That's more than likely the case with the Chrysler recalls. That being said, if anyone thinks any of these automakers or the different parts plants do things substantially different from GM, as far as process control or quality control is concerned, they're kidding themselves. Every one of them, whether here in the U.S., Europe, Asia, South America, wherever...use the ISO standards.386Views0likes0CommentsRe: First Time with ProPride
alexleblanc wrote: waynec1957 wrote: I'm real interested in the Pro Pride hitch. We're looking at a 35', 8,500 (ish) lb. camper with opposing slides in the rear. So I'm guessing sway is a potential. I have a general idea of how they work but one thing I haven't figured out, having never actually seen one, is with the hitch head attached to the tongue of the camper and the stinger set up, how does the head pivot up and down? For instance when the back of the truck and the nose of the camper are both pointing down. you're towing a very similar setup to mine and after 2000km's of real world towing, hooking/unhooking and overall experiencing the Propride product, i'm 100% satisfied with it. Wind, rain, oncoming trucks really don't hamper the driving comfort anymore. I only drive at speeds up to 60-62mph anyways, but its substantially more stable and comfortable at speed. Anyone who has a hard time hooking up or unhooking needs to both learn how to adjust the tensions on each side to make the head opening close to matching the stinger, that's it. I figured it out in about 30 minutes or playing with it the first time we went out with it. Money well spent. (moreso for me when you add the taxes, duties and shipping I paid almost 3200$ Canadian.) I look forward to my sizeable trip later this summer, we're going from Moncton NB. to Burlington VT, then Lake George Area in upstate NY followed by Cape Cod for a week then back home. nearly 2600km's alone of towing on that trip. https://goo.gl/maps/Ew1SW Alex We haven't got the bigger TT yet. We thought it would happen this year but it's looking like next year. I use an Equalizer now on a 30" 6,000 lb (loaded) camper and it works really well. The 35 footer (actually closer to 36')is 8,500 lbs empty and 5-6' longer. The extra length, weight, and two huge opposing slides in the back is what got me to looking at the PP.255Views0likes0CommentsRe: First Time with ProPride
93Cobra2771 wrote: waynec1957 wrote: I wondered about this because from the pictures I've seen of the PP it looks as if the head is fairly rigid in regards to up and down movement because of the way it's attached to the yoke. We keep our camper on a seasonal site when we're not traveling. When I back in there's a dip at the edge of the road that causes both the nose of the camper and the back of the truck to dip down. The site also slopes gently upward towards the back and when unhooking the back of the camper is 8-10" (or maybe more, I haven't measured) above the receiver of the truck. If I'm understanding all of this, the way to make the stinger level with the unloaded height of the receiver so it slides out smoothly is to use the tongue jack and WD jacks? Not exactly. When you back in, and prior to putting the tongue jack down, you loosen the WD jacks until they are totally loose and not putting transferring any weight. Once that is done, THEN you use the tongue jack. I watch the receiver (where the stinger goes into the receiver on the truck) carefully as I'm jacking up. Once the stinger shifts up in the receiver, then the tongue is high enough and the truck is ready to pull out. In the scenario you mention, your WD bars will get even more loose as you raise the tongue. And that is a good thing. Once you pull the stinger out, don't touch the screw jacks and all will be good. It does sound like there's a bit of a learning curve hitching and unhitching but from everything I've heard and read about the PP it's well worth it going down the road. Thanks for your help.244Views0likes0Comments
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