All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Redoing peeling Red Max Pro on 2001 National DPThis spring when I had the time I gave MH a good scrubbing after taking a real beating this winter. Had a lot of black streaks on corners and the rear cap that faces south while parked along side garage need some special care. Since I didn't have any black streak spray remover which has always worked good without having any effect on RMP I used some Mean Green. BIG mistake. Where it ran down sides it took off RMP and it's real noticible.Re: F53 chassis no power from chassis batteryA few years ago I had the same problem with our F53. there was 12 volts at all the panels so it was deceiving. 12 volts will pass through a wire as small as a hair as long as there is minimal current. on the frame rail behind the front pass. tire there is a 12 volt solenoid that has to energize to supply power to engine 12 volt panel and start system. mine had a loose cable on one of the posts so nothing would work but everything checked out good.dull bumperJust thought I'd pass this on. A year ago I demolished our toad a 2004 Jeep Liberty. I bought a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It was well maintained with 90k on it. Gave it a polish job but still needed something to set it off and realized molded bumpers were dull. Brain started working overtime and I saw gallon jug of RMP3 in garage so I slobbered both front and back bumpers with it not worrying about lines of overlap just tried to stay away from drops. After a year I can say it's held up well and bumpers are still shiney and look like new.They are black.Re: What did you do to your Class A MH today???Used rig for the last time this year two weeks ago and neither slide would work.Kinda ruined a wk/end. got it home and couldn't find a blown fuse and manual didn't show much. Sent off an email to Gulfstream and they sent me a couple printouts of my electrical compartment. Determined there is no control power as if a fuse has blown but can not find it as no fuses are bad in either chassis,lighting or coach panel. I do have a positive and negative pair for power seats not used that are fed by a 15 amp mini breaker from coach panel. the driver seat has a safety slide switch that feeds both slides power and it is dead also. I found the wire at said seat switch that feeds slide buttons and slides work fine now. I'm gonna induce a milliamp signal to other wire and try and find it in fuse compartment. I checked ALL fuses and all are good to look at and none are Id'd as slide power. After all that I did get it winterized and topped off batteries, took 1/2 gallon of distilled too. on edit I'm using power seat hot lead for slide control power.Re: slide powerwa8yxm yes that's our town and Blue Lake Fine Arts camp is a great place and RJsfishin to make mine more difficult there are 2 solenoids involved and both work with the jacks key off,seat anyplace,in gear,no emerg. brake. it's just the 2 buttons for the slides are not functioning. gonna pull switches and see if I can trace wiring or maybe figure out the hot lead. the 2 solenoids work with the jacks and only turn on the pump one for down and one for up and for slides out and in. the fluid solenoids are mounted on the pump frame.Re: slide powerIt's an Equalizer jack and pump system and pump works good. The control buttons are not telling solenoid to fire as if there is no 12vdc at switch and can't find a fuse marked "slides" and there are no Hi Amp breakers open. will try emerg. brake to see if that works, never had to use it in the past and I've owned MH since new.slide powerUsed MH for the last time yesterday and neither slide will move. Kinda put a damper on wk/end as we were 80 miles from home and it was raining.the HI AMP breaker was not tripped,the seat switch although never needed in the past to move slides appeared to be in correct position. I can not find a fuse to power slide buttons, there has to be some control power to energize the solenoid. the only fuse that may be related to slide system is good. any ideas?Re: Gulf Stream RVmy 2 cents is ours is worth every penny we paid for it. got it on sale one day and it was new. haven't driven it much the last few years a/c of economics but when we want to use it it's available. we spend summers in it at a VFW campground from May thru most of September. gonna bring it home this wk/end. it's 35 miles away so it will be driven 70 miles a year the last few years.had to reverse drain pipes once. large pipe was on grey tank small on black, quality control issue. went to start it one spring and nothing at ignition. after trouble shooting a couple days with no schematics found a loose wire on solenoid on frame behind front pass. tire. it supplies all voltage to lights and ignition. it was a main cable lug that was loose another quality issue. other than those 2 issues it runs like it was new and still looks like itRe: Dinghy transfer case explodedCVD, that sounds like what happened to mine, The front shaft was replaced when it was repaired. on my old chevy the CV joint had a needle grease fitting and it was occasionally greased. never greased Dakota, there were no grease fittings or a place to put them unless it was ever replaced with a non factory item.Re: Dinghy transfer case explodedThe same thing happened to me on the way home from Arizona 150 miles from home. After towing my 93 Dakota 4x4v8 from Apache Junction to Kankakee.Il. my transfer case let go also. I had towed it to and back from Arizona the previous year and all over Michigan for 9 years so I knew how to set it up. The next exit was a Dodge dealer. The tow truck driver dropped it off there, this was on a Sunday. I picked it up the following Saturday after paying 2400 dollars. This was in 2004.