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Re: U-Toob Tools Who Owns What Brand?
I once managed a panel shop building control panels for water treatment equipment. when a truck was waiting we would literally destroy power tools in an effort to get the machines out the door. At that time I thought that Milwaukee was the only brand that could stand up to the abuse but one day my neighbor loaned a Ryobi drill, I liked it and bought one and it held up as good if not better than the Milwaukee. Now I own most of the 18Volt tools they make, I like most of them with the exception of the stapler/brad driver. They also made a 18volt canister vacuum which is great but discontinued it for some reason, now if you can find it on Ebay it will be outrageously priced. I have always tried to buy American but since none of this stuff is now made in America it makes no difference.285Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake Issue - 2007 Tahoe - 106,000 Miles
I was positive it was the master cylinder and I could have changed it myself but I wanted to have it checked out by someone who hopefully knows more about it than I do, the last thing I want to happen is lose the brakes especially when I'm towing. Took it to the Chevy dealer and they confirmed the master cylinder. Thanks for all the input.713Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake Issue - 2007 Tahoe - 106,000 Miles
eHoefler wrote: MASTER CYLINDER IS BYPASSING, REPLACE IMMEDIATLY, DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL REPLACED! I tend to agree but what is confusing me is at the moment it is working just fine. If the master cylinder was bypassing wouldn't that mean that there is damage internally and from what I understand a defective master cylinder normally does not malfunction intermittently, when its broke, its broke.713Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake Issue - 2007 Tahoe - 106,000 Miles
Disc brakes all around, pads are not warn and rotors are in excellent condition. With engine off brake pedal locks up when pushed and does not sink when held down. With engine running brake pedal goes further down when pushed but still locks up and does not sink when held down. Break fluid appears clean and normal color, with no leaks and a full reservoir. I don't know if it is normal for the break pedal to compress further down when the engine is running but I believe it always did. Keep in mind that since the incident yesterday the breaks worked fine all the way home, about 30 miles in stop and go traffic and still work fine this morning. I want to figure this out now and not when Im towing.714Views0likes0CommentsBrake Issue - 2007 Tahoe - 106,000 Miles
Brake pedal went almost to the floor before brakes engaged. Until I was able to get off road brake pedal was mushy and I had to pump the brakes up to get them to engage. After getting car off the road I expected to find a fluid leak and low reservoir but found no leak and reservoir was full. Started engine and brakes worked great, drove home without another incident, brakes worked great. Checked brakes again this morning, they worked great, no leaks, plenty of fluid, no problem. What caused the original brake failure that went away on its own. Thanks in advance for the help.2KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Tips For Drilling Stainless Steel
Quote: Thanks... any tips on thin stainless not turning blue? Is blue from heat? If so maybe go slower? Thanks If you are getting discoloration of the metal during drilling you are running too hot and are risking ruining the drill bit. And you are work hardening the stainless.993Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tips For Drilling Stainless Steel
Housted wrote: One other thing to consider after drilling. If you use a stainless bolt and nut you need to put some anti-sieze on the bolt because stainless will sieze and weld it self if both nut and bolt are clean. Don't ask me how I know!!! Yes - Very important This phenomenon is known as Galling, it is caused by the heat pressure and friction. If you have ever tried grinding stainless you will notice the metal doesn't shear off cleanly as carbon steel does, some of the metal will just move in the direction it is being ground .992Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tips For Drilling Stainless Steel
I have drilled a lot of stainless and found a small brad point drill bit worked best for the pilot hole. And don't forget stainless work hardens so you want to use sharp tools and a coolant, if you are tapping or cutting threads don't let it heat up go slow and easy. If you use a dull drill and the stainless work hardens your in for a really big hassle.992Views0likes0Comments
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Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Feb 17, 202538,707 Posts
