Craig___Karen
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Re: Cracks & Leaks in roof
The roof material is rubber membrane. It was replaced 7 years ago with a 10 year warranty, but the shop that did the repair is no longer in business and the manufacturer declines any warranty. We have been very proactive with visual inspection and cleaning at least once a year. Last time we looked was several months ago and the crew that was up there to clean did not note any problems or weakness in the roof. We are in a heavily wooded area and know that several limbs have fallen on the roof in the past six months during storms. The insurance claim rep could not identify the damage as being related to falling tree stuff. We have had some very severe storms recently.324Views0likes0CommentsCracks & Leaks in roof
We had the roof inspected by an insurance adjuster yesterday. Several large open cracks in roof skin with some damage to wood underneath. Soft wood. Area involved is about 2 - 3 square feet right in the middle of the RV. A/C and vents are not involved. No insurance settlement allowed. We called several dealers and found the price for new roof would be $5500 plus wood repairs. We cannot afford that. Are there any options available such as patch and seal the roof? If we did patch and seal, what would happen to the wood underneath? Would the wood continue to deteriorate even with no new water intrusion? We are full timers that are semi-permanently located in a RV park in SW North Carolina. Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated. Thanks!2.1KViews0likes11CommentsRe: 1995 Bounder water heater inside access
We have hot water! I did place the electric thermo in the space below the propane TSTAT and ECO on the front of the unit. Took some patience to peel back an area of the outer skin so that the thermostat could be mounted directly on the tank. The installation of the anode was also tricky due to the propane valve assembly being in the way. In all, it took me about 2 hours, including draining the tank twice due to forgetting to tape one fitting and solving a leak. On for just under an hour and the water is hot but the thermostat will probably need to be adjusted up. We are on very cold well water in camp here. I highly recommend the Campco 11673 Hybrid Electric water heater conversion. Thanks again for all the great advice and support.798Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Bounder water heater inside access
There is room under the existing thermostat (ECO T'STAT) where I believe I can mount the new electric thermostat. I would need to cut a rectangle in the outer skin to gain access to the tank for mounting. Since the existing propane thermostat is right above that, is there any harm in mounting the new one adjacent? The existing has a piece of sticky backed foam attached to outside. I can provide a similar piece over the new one. This seems to me to be a solution to access difficulty. Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. Thanks.798Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Bounder water heater inside access
Ava wrote: Hi, my 94 Bounder has an access panel in the next compartment on the sidewall. Four screws hold the panel. Thanks for your help. On our model, the compartment next to the water heater has the converter mounted to the wall and no visible access to the heater.798Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Bounder water heater inside access
Thanks, Eric, for the quick response and information. The reason I would like access to the tank is to install a Camco Hybrid Electric kit #11673. This would add electric heating of the water to our present propane electronic ignition Atwood heater. The instructions want the new thermostat mounted with sticky tape to the top or sides of the tank - about 3x5" area. I am not able to physically crawl under the unit, so I'll need to ask for help from a neighbor.799Views0likes0Comments
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