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Re: Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC
Mini split Update Installed 4/17/2019 so 4 months later its still running and working great. We have taken 4 camping trips 45min, 50min, 1h20min, 2hr30min drive from the house each 4 day duration. I was worried that road vibrations would cause R410a leaks, but none to date. I have kept it plugged in and running at home since 4/17 set on 82f unless I go in to work on the interior basically as a dehumidifier and to gain a little confidence on reliability. I did have a problem with a leak at initial installation and had to charge it after finding and re-tightening the leaking flare connection. The high pressure line at the air handling part was leaking. I could not find a torque value for tightening the connections which could be helpful in avoiding this type of leak. I used a bar of soap with a few drips of water and a paint brush to find the leak. The unit uses .75A with just the blower running and 5.42A while cooling. The unit has no problem holding the camper at 66F while 96F outside. I am quite impressed with its ability to cool. I will report back this winter when I am able to test the heating part of the unit. There are no electric heat strips installed. Overall I am quite happy with the performance of the Mini split1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: WINDOW LEAK trying EZE RV GUTTERS
garyemunson wrote: "Recaulking" windows is usually futile. The flexing of RVs quickly breaks the seal and the leak resumes. Every 10 years or so it's really necessary to remove the windows, clean off old caulk then replace the rope caulk between the frame and wall. Not all that difficult with 2 people and a ladder. Remove all the screws on the inside, remove the inner part and start pushing the window out. The outside guy should have a putty knife handy for the few spots of sticky caulk remaining. Once the new rope caulking is installed and window back in place, every year the inside screws need to be tightend to take up the slack from the slowly compressing caulk. After another 10 years it will be squished flat and due for another go-round. I'm seeing a lot of brands of rope caulking on the internet Is there a specific type for RV use or does it matter?469Views0likes0CommentsWINDOW LEAK trying EZE RV GUTTERS
I have a Terry Expo 24LZ 1997 which had a couple of windows leaking which I re-caulked and slowed the leaks Found EZE RV GUTTERS on youtube and have put them on all my windows and no leaks so far 3 months https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoeRKCnDqRM I found them at https://www.zoro.com/trim-lok-inc-edge-trim-25-ft-l-0900-in-w-black-drb-25/i/G4164575/ Has anyone else tried this? What were your results?1.8KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC
Gulfcoast wrote: I think a 115 volt mini-split is a great idea, but here's my question. My 13,500 rooftop unit will not cool our 200 sf trailer at 90-degrees outside. Will a 12,000 btu mini-split keep it comfortable? I'd hate to do all that work and still be hot. You bring up a good point. The roof ac coming off this Terry EXPO 24LZ (147 square ft) is a 13,500BTU unit too. The unit was DOA when I got the trailer and the previous owner said it did an ok job (hard to quantify). The rub is above 12k BTU the units are all 220V. That is why I questioned earlier about campsites with only 110v 30A available. I have a 220v 30amp generator but don't want to run it in a campsite with shore power. The neighbors probably wouldn't like the noise either. The Ductless mfg says it can cool 400 to 600 sq ft or about 2.7x to 4x the size of my camper. The next step up is 18k BTU 220VAC I'm currently replacing the roof and plan to replace the R6 insulation with R32. This should help some. I am also enclosing the bottom of the trailer with Corex material (the same stuff the political signs are made from, only thicker)purchased in 4x8 sheets. I would like to insulate too but am worried that it might hold water.I might try the bubble wrap stuff (r values are pretty low). The sides of the trailer are insulated with 1/2 inch thick foam about R3.25, cant do much about this.1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC
I will stay with 120v at 7amps. I'm also looking at making a relay that will hold the compressor off when the refrigerator or microwave is starting. Something that monitors the amp draw/power coming into the RV. When a threshold of amps is drawn by something the control circuit/wire to the compressor is held open (compressor off or wont start). Make the threshold settable. Assumed usage: Microwave 5 amps Refrigerator 3.5 amps Ductless ac 7 amps so about 15.5 amps when all is running and assume 2x when it tries to start As long as more than one thing does not start within a few seconds of each other all is swell!! Thoughts?556Views0likes0CommentsRe: Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC
I might have a solution for the potential fitting issue. I have found a local hydraulic hose guy that can make AC rated flexible hoses like used in an automobile. He will make a 2 ft pc (pressure and suction) that can go between the compressor and the line set. That should solve any stress at the connectors allow freedom of movement and reduce the effect of any potential weak flair issue. The unit I'm getting is a heat pump so it will cool and heat. I have no issue with the way they work. I have an old house and the upstairs was not air conditioned. We only use the bedrooms and bath when we have guest. I have 2 small units for 4 years now and they work fine for our need. Concerns are how long will it last in a 22 ft Terry TT (what do I need to do to extend life), and what size do I need. I'm putting a new roof and ceiling in but will leave the frame work for the roof top AC just in case this does not work. One additional concern. Should I use 110v at 7 amps or 220v at 3.5amps? Has anyone ran into a campsite with only 110v available?412Views0likes0CommentsRe: Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC
The sizing might be pretty close the old AC coming out of the camper uses a RK160AT-024-J7 compressor rated at 115V 1hp and 13k BTU. If anything it may be a little bit too small at 12k BTU. Thoughts????? I'm getting mixed messages. Conversion charts show 6k to cool 150 to 200 sq ft. Check the chart on the bottom of the page. I have 147 sq ft to cool and heat. 12k puts me about 3x the rate they recommend. I should be able to hang meat, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klimaire-12-000-BTU-21-5-SEER-AC-Commercial-Ceiling-Cassette-Heat-15FT-Kit-220V/132165174666?hash=item1ec5a8858a:g:ZPYAAOSwsDZb6sSH If I need to reduce cooling I can block the intake some or slow the fan or put in a smaller expansion valve. If I need more cooling well too bad If I don't get a large enough unit. My wife has to have the noise from a fan to sleep so air circulation into the bedroom should not be an issue The line set will travel straight to a 36 inch wide floor to ceiling closet and then down to the floor level passing under a couch/bed and then out the back of the camper to the outdoor unit, two 90 degree sweeping bends. I will buy copper and insulation from my local ac supplier to make the line set. It will be encased in a cut resistant sleeve and supported by straps every foot or so. The condenser water drip line will follow the same path until it it is about 3 ft behind the tires and will then exit the floor of the camper. To stabilize the compressor unit I plan to mount with rubber bushings on the bottom and screw on a bracket on the top and use rubber bushings there as well. Movement in all directions should be restricted to less than 3/8 inch and will leave the last 2 feet of the line-set to have freedom of movement. If the line-set fails it should be at the last rigid support. The connections are single flare with a plastic bushing. It is nice having some one to bounce ideas off of thanks to all!410Views0likes0CommentsRe: Re-pack wheel bearings
I pull a 7k stump grinder up and down the road just about every day M-F on a dual 7k per axle trailer. I inspect how warm they get by touching after a 15 to 30 minute drive or when I stop for fuel. If you can touch without burning your hand you will not have an issue. Just be careful and put your hand close not touching, if no heat radiating do a quick touch, if not hot then feel longer for a warm axle. Without a baseline or if you have not inspected them before inspect all axles by pulling off the end caps. If you are one of the lucky ones they will have a grease cert in the end of the axle(or a place to put one). Pump some grease in and inspect the grease coming out around the outside of the bearings. If no cert you may need to remove one tire and hub to inspect the condition of the grease. If it's clean no metal flake no water put it back together and re-grease. Over greasing every so often helps purge old grease/metal/water out. Just clean up the mess it makes. Test each hub/bearing and axle fit by wiggling in on one side and out on the other side of the tire then top and bottom. There should be no play felt! If there is tighten the castle nut till the play is gone. I usually tighten until I can feel rolling resistance (too tight) then loosen 1 or 2 slots of the castle nut or until the tire turns free again. Keeping play out of your bearing set is as important as the grease. Too tight and sufficient lube can not get under them too loose and the bearings can chatter or bounce around. Remember to replace the carter key. I have ran and maintained several trailers this way with no issues. Some I pull every day some set for months between use. and have not replaced bearings for over 5 years. I bet the guy broke down on the side of the road getting a spindle welded on did not maintain/inspect his wheel bearings. Get you some 9mil black gloves from harbor freight, high temp grease, rags and get in there.319Views0likes0CommentsDuctless AC instead of roof mounted AC
In addition to my roof repairs I am replacing the AC unit on my trailer. Does anyone have any experience with the Mini Split Ductless AC Heat Pump reliability on an RV? I have seen installs on youtube and they all claim no problems with it. I worry about the bouncing going down the road causing a freon leak, But when I look at the construction of both roof and ductless I don't see significant difference in the build quality or design. So I'm thinking there should be no problem. Planning to mount the outdoor unit and a generator to a welded platform on the rear of the camper and install a small brush guard and backup camera, and make sure the line-set is insulated and supported properly. The unit I am planning to use ($460.00 delivered). https://www.ebay.com/itm/12000-BTU-15-SEER-110V-Mini-Split-Confort-System-Ductless-AC-Heat-Pump-110V/303081116734 Says its good to 600 square ft, I have a little over 200, heating and cooling. I have worked in manufacturing and installed and maintained many AC units. I have all the tools vacuum pump and hoses/gauges. Thoughts? Sanity Check!6.6KViews0likes29Comments
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