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lastword
Explorer
Apr 01, 2019

WINDOW LEAK trying EZE RV GUTTERS

I have a Terry Expo 24LZ 1997 which had a couple of windows leaking which I re-caulked and slowed the leaks
Found EZE RV GUTTERS on youtube and have put them on all my windows and no leaks so far 3 months
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoeRKCnDqRM

I found them at
https://www.zoro.com/trim-lok-inc-edge-trim-25-ft-l-0900-in-w-black-drb-25/i/G4164575/

Has anyone else tried this?
What were your results?
  • I used them above my storage doors. They helped keep the water from seeping in around the doors quite a bit.
  • "Recaulking" windows is usually futile. The flexing of RVs quickly breaks the seal and the leak resumes. Every 10 years or so it's really necessary to remove the windows, clean off old caulk then replace the rope caulk between the frame and wall. Not all that difficult with 2 people and a ladder. Remove all the screws on the inside, remove the inner part and start pushing the window out. The outside guy should have a putty knife handy for the few spots of sticky caulk remaining. Once the new rope caulking is installed and window back in place, every year the inside screws need to be tightend to take up the slack from the slowly compressing caulk. After another 10 years it will be squished flat and due for another go-round.
  • garyemunson wrote:
    "Recaulking" windows is usually futile. The flexing of RVs quickly breaks the seal and the leak resumes. Every 10 years or so it's really necessary to remove the windows, clean off old caulk then replace the rope caulk between the frame and wall. Not all that difficult with 2 people and a ladder. Remove all the screws on the inside, remove the inner part and start pushing the window out. The outside guy should have a putty knife handy for the few spots of sticky caulk remaining. Once the new rope caulking is installed and window back in place, every year the inside screws need to be tightend to take up the slack from the slowly compressing caulk. After another 10 years it will be squished flat and due for another go-round.


    I'm seeing a lot of brands of rope caulking on the internet
    Is there a specific type for RV use or does it matter?
  • You want to use butyl tape. It is availble at Home Depot also for a much cheaper price although it is grey in color instead of white. That shouldn't be an issue however but you would probably need to use two lengths around each window frame side by side since it is only 1/4 inch wide.
    Barney
  • My current trailer with a 31' roof line didn't come with a drip channel...just a aluminum molding that sealed the roof/sidewall overlap.
    I bought enough EZE product to do both sides at the top. The EZE RV gutter has been up there 16 years and still doing a great job of stopping roof run off water from just running down the sides where ever.
    Great stuff
  • I have a 2006 Forest River Flaggstaff that needed major work. Part of my renovation project, was removal of each window, apply new butyl caulk and reinstalling window. I installed EZE RV Gutters over each window, wrapping it down the side a few inches. This "eyebrow" above each window has worked great and really helped with water management.
  • My outside compartment doors are in desperate need of repair from wood rot. Luckily it's only the doors, and not the structure around them. At any rate, this product sounds perfect for protecting them. It's now on my list too. :)
  • A properly sealed window will not let water pass. The gutters sound like a good idea. I guess they work by diverting water from the window.
    Here's where I go for caulk and sealants
    https://delamrepair.com/sealingproducts.html