All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Best Sealant to re-seal RV side hatch covers etc.I have pictures that are worth a Thousand words but I can't seem to post them, anyone have any help on how I can post them? I read the FAQ and HELP and can't get it to work!? ????? ThanksRe: Best Sealant to re-seal RV side hatch covers etc.Thanks for the responses everyone. To address a few of your questions, YES, I absolutely plan on removing the hatches, cleaning and removing all of the old sealant and reinstalling with new. I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon and certainly don't want any leaks! It appears to me that the factory (Northwood Manufacturing - Arctic Fox Truck Camper 990) has used a clear silicone to seal some of these hatches? Some of the other vertical items appear to have a white non-hardening caulking of some kind though? Anyway, it's the ones that appear to be silicone that I am needing to fix as the sealant is cracking... I have pix but can't seem to get them to post here... ? Thank you.Best Sealant to re-seal RV side hatch covers etc.Any suggestions on what I should use to reseal the fixtures on the side of my camper? I.E. the outdoor shower fixture where it mates with the camper skin. Factory sealant is now shrunk and pulling away slightly, need to re-seal it Don't think the self-leveling is good for vertical application? Should I just use silicone caulk or is there a specific formula or brand that holds up best to the Sun, temperature etc.? ThanksRe: Plumbing wrench? Spanner wrench? HELP? BigSkyBob wrote: Or place some blocks or similar under the P trap to support the weight of the plumbing. Thanks, I thought of that first but the shower pan flexes a bit when someone is in it, so I didn't want to crack the pipes if they are propped up by wood, not allowing them to flex up and down with the shower pan when it moves. The plumbers tape would be anchored to a wood cross beam for the shower pan, so when it moves, the tape will move with it. I think this will work, we shall see? ThanksRe: Plumbing wrench? Spanner wrench? HELP? liborko wrote: The white nut is a combination sealing ring and nut in one piece. You can also get a separate sealing ring if that is what you have. P-trap Thanks, guess it's called a "P trap" not a "J-trap".Re: Plumbing wrench? Spanner wrench? HELP?thanks for the responses folks. The type of fitting I have has the all-in-one plastic nut and built in compression ring (the white one) so there is no lost part best I can tell. I think the problem is that in order for me to slip the shower drain downspout into the "J" trap, I have to lift the rest of the pipes weight that are connected to the system "downstream"... so that one fitting at the shower drain down pipe has to hold up the weight of the rest of the pipes. I think I am going to try and just hang the pipe with some plumbers tape to take the weight load and hold it in place, then the fitting won't need to support any weight and shouldn't have a problem sealing, since it's not a pressure system, just gravity. It should drain fine with no leaks if I can just get it to stay in place without slipping down and off... wish me luck, thanks.Plumbing wrench? Spanner wrench? HELP?Hello, trying to see if there is a special wrench for the compression fitting on the black plastic plumbing? My shower drain down-pipe has come lose from the "J" pipe and I can't get it tight enough by hand to stay up, it keeps slipping back down. it's REALLY tight in there so I can't get a good enough position of leverage and grip to crank it down tight. Does anyone know if there is a wrench used to tighten these plastic compression fittings? Thanks,Re: Recommended Solar control module for 50W solar panel?Hey Folks, I received my SS-6 in the mail today and read through the installation manual. Had a few quick questions for y'all. 1) It says that I am supposed to mount the unit "in the same ambient temperature as the batteries"... My batteries are in an outside compartment and all of the wires come to an inside compartment. The compartment is even labeled, "solar controller located here" from the factory. Since the SS-6 has a temperature sensor on it, will I be ok mounting them in different locations? I.E. how critical is this? 2) The instruction diagram says to hook up the out puts of the SS-6 to positive & negative terminals of the battery. But I have two batteries that are hooked together in parallel, so...? Do I just need to hook to one battery and the other connected battery will charge through the other?? 3) There is a jumper on two of the terminals of the SS-6 unit to select battery type, "Sealed" and "Flooded". I'm not sure which I have? I just have standard Costco RV / Marine batteries. Any idea which these are or how I can tell? I thought that sealed just meant no water caps to refill but wouldn't that be a flooded lead acid battery too? So I'm confused? Thanks again everyone. Oh P.S. just want to make sure that this solar controller / charger won't "fight with" or confuse the charger I have? It's an InteliPower 9100 with the charge wizard added. Will they play nice together and NOT cook my batteries or over charge etc. when I'm in the sun AND plugged into shore power?Re: Recommended Solar control module for 50W solar panel? AnEv942 wrote: I would add to the OP- DO NOT try to run Your camper thru the Sunsaver6 load terminals. Mark LoL, ZERO worries there! I may not be the brightest bulb in the ceiling, but I am smart enough to know what I don't know and this thread lost me after most recommended I get the SS 6, so I did. In all reality though, my solar usage will only consist of keeping my batteries float charged while my camper is stored in my driveway, so I don't need to keep it plugged into shore power and risk cooking or boiling off my electrolyte with the DC converter. (although that issue will also be resolved soon when I install the "charge wizard" to my Intelipower 9100, coming soon...) And the only other use will be when camping w/o shore power, to help the batteries keep up and recharge best my little 50watt panel will. I also have a built in LP generator too, so no big worries about off grid power loss etc. I RARELY camp off grid anyway. So this little 50watt panel with the SS 6 will be just fine I suspect! I will leave the rest of you back to your in depth, over my head, super solar system configurations! As always, THANKS FOR ALL OF THE HELP EVERYONE! I know SO MUCH more about my camper and it's systems from this forum!Re: Recommended Solar control module for 50W solar panel?Thanks everyone. I just ordered up the Sunsaver 6 for my 50 w panel. not sure but I think I could add another 50w to it later? since they are less than 3 w and the panel goes to 6? But, If not, it was inexpensive, so If / when I want to upgrade later, no biggie if I need to upgrade it too. Thanks for all of the help. I think this will work well for me for now, I don't do a lot of off grid stuff as of now anyway. This will basically just keep my batteries topped while no shore power is available. Thanks
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