willald
Explorer II
Joined 23 years ago
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Re: Coating peeling off seats
Yep, as already said, very common issue on a lot of RVs. They use cheap, fake leather that starts flaking apart after a couple years. And, it always seems to start happening right after warranty is up, so manufacturer probably isn't going to be much help. We had this happen on our 2012 Forest River Georgetown we used to own, not 2 years after we bought it (new). Ended up taking it to a local upholstery shop and had both captain chairs and the sofa re-upholstered with good quality leather. Was fine after that, new upholstery was still in great shape after several more years of use and when we traded that rig back in 2021. So far (knock on wood), this hasn't been an issue on our Newmar after 2 years of quite a bit of use. Newmar seems to use good quality furniture made from better material.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: full wall slideout issue - maybe
wildtoad wrote: Sorry about the formatting. 72185 County Rd 3 Newmar Corporation 866.290.5371 Nappanee, IN 46550 Fax 574.773.2007 Product Information Bulletin Date Issued 01/29/15 PIB # Full-wall Slide-out 38 Operation YEAR / BRAND / TYPE / MODEL # The intent of this Product Information Bulletin is to inform of the recommended operating procedure for all Newmar Product with full-wall slide-outs. Product Information In the past, Newmar has recommended leveling the coach prior to deploying the slide-outs. Although this is still the recommendation for coaches without full wall slide-outs, Newmar makes the following recommendation for coaches equipped with a full wall slide-out. PLEASE REVIEW THIS RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE: Motorhomes, as all vehicles, flex in travel. Flexing may be different due to terrain and the coach’s fulcrums (resting on tires or jacks). This is normally not an issue for coaches without a full wall slide-out. Although the jacks and the slide-out mechanism are both welded to the chassis frame, with a full wall slide-out, you have a large box (the slide), inside another large box (the coach) and they both flex, especially the coach. As the coach flexes, this movement is more noticeable in the outside reveal due to the wider slide-out. Additional care should be taken once the coach is parked. Before operating the full wall slide-out, one should walk around the driver’s side and look at the “reveal” or “gap” of the two vertical wall trims around the full wall slide-out to make sure there is plenty of clearance so the trim will not rub when running the slide-out to the out position. If the gap looks good then the slide out can be operated. If the gap is tight in one or more places, try leveling the coach to see if that corrects it, then operate the slide out. If at any time there is cause for concern, do not operate the slide-out and call Newmar Customer Service. PLEASE NOTE: Most often the gap will look best when sitting on the tires and not the jacks. If you have any questions regarding this P.I.B., please contact a Warranty Service Representative at Newmar Corpo Thank you, Tom, this is very, very helpful. If I'd known this, would probably never have had this problem. I'll bet the gap or 'reveal' in our case after I did a not-so-good job of leveling last weekend, was very tight. Will definitely keep this in mind going forward.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: full wall slideout issue - maybe
Horsedoc wrote: Full wall slide have duel motors? I might check and see that both drive motors and screws are synced and balanced. Yes, dual motors. Dealer checked that, and all is good there. Opnspaces has a good point. Could the entire structure be in a bind when this happened?? Yeah, I think thats what it was. Once got off that site, brought jacks up, all is good. Definitely a lesson learned from this, like said in the previous posts.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: full wall slideout issue - maybe
wildtoad wrote: Newmar has the strongest slide system in the industry. They do have some “rules” for their slide system. First before extending slides check the vertical gap between the slide and the mh. This is called the reveal. If there is a gap (on BOTH sides), extend slides, otherwise don’t. Newmar states that most of the time (perhaps not in op’s case) the gap will be best BEFORE leveling. They don’t say when to extend, before or after leveling, just make sure you have a gap. I have leveled mine just to find no gap or a too close for comfort gap and de-leveled to find the gaps were good. Extended the slides, then leveled. Make sure you reverse the process in the same order. All the twisting to the frame and slide from the leveling probably resulted in the slide not being square, but not enough to cause damage. You were indeed lucky. Thank you, Tom, this is really good info. I agree, the twisting is why the slideout wouldn't go all the way out, but fortunately didn't twist things enough to do any damage, so we are fine. Yes, Newmar has an awesome, very stout slide mechanism, was one of the things that sold us on Newmar. I had not heard, read that about the vertical gap thing to check for with the slideout. What exactly is meant by vertical gap between MH and slideout? Do you mean, the gap between bottom of slideout floor and MH floor?1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: full wall slideout issue - maybe
Lantley wrote: I would assume rig was not quite level as a result the slideout was somewhat racked and would not extend fully. Once the rig is leveled properly the issue goes away. Yeah, I think this pretty well sums up what happened. Crazy thing is we've been camping with this particular rig a LOT for over 2 years, sometimes in very remote, unlevel (to put it mildly) campsites, and this was never an issue until now. The takeaway is avoid the really unlevel spots when possible. Pull up on boards to get closer to level or do whatever you can if you encounter a really unlevel site. Know that the slideout will not extend properly on a really unlevel site. Agreed, thats definitely the lesson learned from this. I've found over the years, that the best sites with the best views, access, etc. are usually the ones that are the most unlevel. Sooo, I carry a lot of blocks for leveling, and usually don't mind using them and taking the time to get it leveled even on the most unlevel sites (been on sites muuuuuch worse than the one we were on this last weekend). This was one time, though, I got lazy and in a hurry, and paid the price, haha. Hopefully won't happen again. Not quite the same but I don't like it when the auto level function raises my 5'ers wheels off the ground. I do what I can to avoid the wheel raising scenario when I recognize a site is way out of level I am the same way, Lantley! I will not let a wheel get off the ground. If site is that unlevel, I break out the big, long blocks I built for driving wheels up on, and will drive whichever side is low up onto the blocks. Then, will stack several blocks under each of the jacks so the jacks don't have to extend as far, either. I've found that the more blocks you use and the less you extend your jacks, generally the more stable things are inside. Seen people lift wheels off the ground all the time, and I imagine the jacks will handle it and won't hurt anything. However, I don't like the lateral stability you lose when you do that. The tires need to be on the ground, to help with lateral stability. Fortunately, Lantley, where we are going next week up in your neck of the woods, the site is very level (and beautiful!), so won't be a problem. Looking forward to meeting up with you. :) Will1.4KViews0likes0Commentsfull wall slideout issue - maybe
Soo, last weekend, we went camping with some friends up in the mountains. Site we got to was not very level, really had to work the jacks, blocks to get the RV level. Tried to open the (full wall) slide out, it makes some strange noises, seems like its grinding on something, but does go out, although doesn't seem like it will go all the way out - In back, its all the way out, flush, but in front, the top corner isn't all the way out, its lacking about 3/4" and that corner will go no further out. Anyway, doesn't seem like its an issue, not feeling any cold air or seeing any daylight from the top front corner that didn't appear to go all the way out, so we decide to leave it out, go on with camping trip and not worry about it until we get back. Was lot of wind, and rain one day (Friday), and we were watching the slide edges real close to see if any rain leaked in (or wind). There was neither, all was good. Stayed very warm inside, too (was cold that weekend in the mountains). Slideout went back in just fine the day we left to come home. Soooo, took it to RV dealer yesterday to have it checked out. Today they call me, say there is absolutely nothing wrong with the slideout, it is working just fine. Indeed, I just checked it out in person, and it is working just fine now, like new. All they did, was lube the various parts (lock arms, rack/pinion gear, etc). We are left wondering what went wrong when we were out in the mountains last weekend, that is just fine now. We have used this rig (Newmar Baystar, see signature) extensively in the 2 years we've owned it. We use it nearly year round, average about 9 or 10 trips a year. It has never sat for more than a month or so between trips. Have had almost zero issues with it up until this (and not even sure this counts as an 'issue'). I do remember that I had a hard time getting the rig leveled this last trip, was in a hurry to do such and may have not done a very good job leveling it. Wondering if that is all it was that caused this. I do know that full wall slideouts like this can be a bit finicky about getting things level before they are operated. Thoughts? Should I be worried, or just chalk this up to, 'Relax, and just do a better job of leveling next time'?2.3KViews0likes15CommentsRe: Screen door aggrivation
Hmmm....Over course of over 20 years of RVing, and owning a total of 5 different RVs in that time that all had the same basic door mechanism you describe here....Have never had this particular issue. Have had other issues with that latch, and am constantly adjusting it, but never had the latch/hook pull away from the main door. I would try screwing it in with larger screws, if you can. Failing that.....Not sure, maybe drill all the way through the door, use a screw with a nut and washer? I know that'd look ugly cause then you'd have a screw head showing on outside that you'd have to seal up with some kind of sealant. Not sure what other choice you'd have, unless maybe you could use a rivet gun and rivet it to just the inner side of the main door?723Views0likes0CommentsRe: Roadside assistance woes!
I won't go into details, but last couple of experiences I've had with roadside assistance via Good Sam ERS have been very disappointing as well. I am to the point I am seriously considering dumping our Good Sam ERS soon. With how much coverage there is now for smart phones everywhere, and the availability of almost anything you need with just a quick search or two on a smart phone....Seems like emergency roadside service coverage is no longer really necessary and a waste of $$. For areas where there is limited coverage, roadside assistance would be little help, anyway, as they make it very, very difficult to get service if you don't have good cell coverage. Last few times I've needed emergency roadside service, I've been able to get better, quicker, and less expensive service much easier on my own. That said.....I do tend to agree that its a bit of a stretch to expect roadside service to pay anything for a service call involving getting an RV freed up that is stuck, off road. I'd expect in that case, to have to pay out of pocket for most if not all service needed.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Do it yourself Oil Change on Newmar class a gas motorhome
I also change the oil myself on our Newmar (see signature). Am actually fixing to do that this week, as ours is due for one. For putting new oil in, like a previous poster, I use a funnel on a long (about 3') hose, that I slide in the oil filler and run up over the 'hood', funnel usually sits close to windshield wipers when I'm refilling. Yes, you may need a step stool for this depending on your height. I'm just tall enough that its not necessary. Yes, you can use a 5 quart container of oil, I do. Be very, very patient, when putting in the new oil. Oil goes down that long tube slowly, and very easy to pour too fast and spill it down the front. Done that more than once. Getting old oil and filter out and replacing oil filter underneath is not much different than any other vehicle. Its a little tough to worm yourself under there, but once you get down there, there's plenty of room to move around. Yes, the front suspension bar going across right where oil comes out is annoying, but easy to work around. I know this is a whole nother subject/debate, but I highly recommend you use full synthetic oil. Gasser motorhome engines work very hard all the time, and it is very expensive and labor intensive if the engine ever needs any major work, so I do all I can to insure it will last. Resetting the oil life meter is a whole nother story. The manual Ford provided with ours is incorrect and out of date. It indicated a procedure involving turning ignition on, pressing gas pedal so many times, etc. to reset the monitor. That doesn't work anymore. Now, you do it via the menu, settings on the display. I believe it was under 'Driver aids', as I recall from the last time (took me a while to get that done first time, as I kept trying to use the procedure the manual provided, which wouldn't work).1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: How to keep gray water from coming up into tub?
Grit dog wrote: Well, I was gonna suggest, if you’re camped in an appropriate spot, dump the gray out. In the woods, in a ditch, in a field, etc. Not thru the neighbors campsite and their outdoor carpet. If one can have a little common sense, it is easy to dispose of gray water responsibly and unnoticed. Just need enough garden hose to get it where you need it. Heck we spend 1-2 weeks in the same popular (relatively crowded) private park every year. I’ve disposed of well over 500gallons of gray, unnoticed by anyone. How do I know? Because the next morning I can’t tell, myself. Sorry if that gets anyone’s feelers all wadded up. But if one has enough IQ to function normally, one also has the ability to lose some gray water without making a mess, harming anything or upsetting anyone. If not, then drive to the dump station I suppose. I suspect there are a lot of people that would agree with this and probably do this, but would never state such publicly, and most especially not on a public internet RV forum. I also agree with a previous post, that plugging the shower is a very bad idea and should be avoided, because you could pressurize plumbing that was not meant to be pressurized, leading to all kinds of problems later on. There must be a better way than that..547Views0likes0Comments
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