woodland_park
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Re: Airxcel seems to take forever to cool park model
WOW! I feel so small! Thanks for all the replies. At least I have the comfort of knowing that it's not an issue with the unit. It's just too small. Wonder why Woodland Park would install an undersized unit especially since this model has a loft? Oh well, thank you all again!789Views0likes0CommentsAirxcel seems to take forever to cool park model
I have an Airxcel model 46413-812, that's mounted under my park model, that's always seemed to take a long time to cool our 500 sq ft park model. It's a 13,500 BTU unit, so it's plenty big..The park model has skirting all the way around the unit and the skirting is vented with 3 - 2' x 3' screens to allow airflow under the unit.There is no debris in the coil and the inside air return is clean. The airflow out the 4 vents seems very weak to me. It's 7 years old. I don't believe there's a high or low speed fan connection by looking at the diagram. The other day it was 91 degrees here and the A/C unit ran for 5+ hours before it turned off at 77 degrees. Thanks for any comments4.6KViews0likes18Commentsanalog to digital thermostat conversion
I own a 2012 Woodland Park Signature Series park model that has an analog thermostat in it,(unknown manufacturer), and I'd like to convert to digital. The dealer stated the following,"We cant use digital thermostats because there is no common wire to supply constant power for digital thermostats. We've tried multiple different thermostats claiming you don't need a common wire but it doesn't work".I have a Coleman/airexcel model 46413-813 A/C unit and an Atwood 8900-111 series gas heater.I usually don't have the breaker on for the A/C unit till I need it, but leaving it on isn't a problem if it somehow figures into the "constant power" referenced above.Everything is working fine, but I'd just like to go with a digital thermostat. Is the dealer correct?3.7KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Water dripping inside from my AC
I'll bet it's the gasket. I had a 5th wheel that started dripping as well. Turns out the roof had a bit of a dip in it in the area of the A/C and the gasket was the original and shot. Replaced the gasket and all was good. 4 bolts and a couple of connectors, roll it out of the way, clean the area, new gasket, re-install. Good luck!316Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gererac model 09734-3 LP issue
OK, we found the issue with the Generac LP generator not staying running! There is a terminal block screwed into the frame about 8 inches below the voltage regulator. There are 4 blue 12VDC wires all labeled wire 14. 1 goes to the prime switch, 1 to J2 on the control PCB, 1 goes to the oil pressure and high temperature and the 4th I believe to a fuel pump that the LP version doesn't have. Anyway, the screw securing the male ends of the terminal block was gone and 2 of the wires had broken off the female spade terminal connector. I just stripped all 4 ends of the wires and wire nutted them together. Fired right up! Still need to order and replace the oil pressure switch, but the high temperature switch is at least in the game. So no switches or circuit board. Just connection, connection, connections. Thanks for all the input!!!268Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gererac model 09734-3 LP issue
still no joy on the generator staying running after releasing the "prime" switch. we're going to replace the "prime" switch as soon as it gets in. This is a 3 position switch with battery power coming in the lower terminal. When pushed it's supposed to bring the 12V to the center terminal, which in turn energizes the LP fuel solenoid allowing propane to pressure up the line to the carb. When pushing the switch, sometimes I get 12V at the middle terminal and sometimes nothing or something between 0 and 12V. The solenoid actuates"clicks" accordingly.Maybe it's some as simple as the "prime" switch. It ohmed out fine, but who knows once you put voltage and current through it. Stay tuned.268Views0likes0CommentsGererac model 09734-3 LP issue
hello, I'm trying to assist my neighbor with his LP fueled generator, but I don't have any theory about how it runs and I'm wondering if anyone could give me direction. Here's what I know. Using the start switch inside the RV (with the load breakers off), it doesn't start. At the generator, using the start switch and the LP prime switch, it will start, but stops as soon as the prime switch is released. He was told to replace the main board which didn't help, same issue. I believe both start and prime switches are good as I ohmed them out with a meter. I can hear the LP valve click when I push the switch and I get 12 volts on 1 of the terminals. The other must go to ground I assume. Thing is, the LP valve does not click every time I press the prime button.Should it? Is there a pick and hold circuit as well once the valve is energized? I need a little theory of operation and hopefully someone can help. Thank you1.7KViews0likes5CommentsRe: dometic 9100 electric just clicks
SoundGuy wrote: dougrainer wrote: Bad Motor. The OP hasn't given any indication as to the age of his Dometic 9100 power awning but quite a few manufactured in 2013 were recalled ... perhaps the OP's is one of them. 2013 Awning. looks like it falls in the recall s/n379Views0likes0Commentsdometic 9100 electric just clicks
when I press the extend or retract switch, my Dometic awning just "clicks". If I hold the button in depending on the direction, I can manually roll up or un roll the awning. Bad motor? I have voltage either way at the awning connector. Thank you2.3KViews0likes4Comments
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