69gp
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Re: Class A Low Bridge Accident
I would be looking at age as being part of this accident. But its still the drivers fault and there is no excuse. I know the height of my RV and and I am always careful with bridge heights. With that being said when I am on side and country roads I am always looking up for that low hanging branch. The bridge that was hit is no different than slowing down and avoiding a hazard in the road. You just don't drive over a foreign object. Slow down, stop or swerve off to the side. Low hanging branch Slow down , stop or serve to the side.470Views0likes0CommentsRe: Solar with a residental fridge
Glad you are going the solar way.. Just a few points to keep in mind. Fixed solar panels are only going to give you max power for roughly 3 hrs a day if they are facing south. Unless you have a tracker system on your RV or you are going to keep adjusting the modules better triple the amount of solar you think you are going to need. As for buying solar panels check Craigs list for them. When I come across modules I sell good used 250 to 350 watt panels for $100.00. I also get modules where the glass is shattered that I sell for $50 each. Reduction of output on these is only about 10%. You can add clear coat over them to keep the moisture out.400Views0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood heater problem
All Thanks for your input and suggestions. This was a double post and i was responding to the other post. Below is what I posted on the other post. Thanks for the Help, Had to replace the electrode. Brought the control board down to my local RV supply store and they did check it out and found that it was working properly. The electrode did look good, gave it a quick cleaning with some fine emery cloth porcelain was still shinny with no cracks in it. guess looks can be deceiving. As soon as I installed the new one and made a few adjustments it fired right up.338Views0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood heater problem
Old-Biscuit wrote: That model uses the spark electrode for return path of flame signal (Flame generates milliamp signal thru rectification---which proves flame is lit) No return signal circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve so raw fuel does not accumulate in combustion chamber Spark electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights off Spark electrode must be free of soot/carbon build up.....clean with emery cloth Spark electrode high voltage wire connection must be clean/tight Spark electrode ceramic insulator can not be cracked....ground tracking Spark electrode assembly screw must be clean/tight ------ground source for rod Spark electrode gap 1/8" Thanks for the Help, Had to replace the electrode. Brought the control board down to my local RV supply store and they did check it out and found that it was working properly. The electrode did look good, gave it a quick cleaning with some fine emery cloth porcelain was still shinny with no cracks in it. guess looks can be deceiving. As soon as I installed the new one and made a few adjustments it fired right up.292Views0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood heater problem
Old-Biscuit wrote: First off..... Atwood made a lot of different models Some gas only....pilot manual light Some gas only...pilot with reigntor Some gas only....electronic ignition Some gas /electic with separate controls Some gs/electric combined controls \\ Etc ETc Which one do YOU have ??? What year/model is it?? Flame proving is most likely the issue. Flame lights and must prove it lit. Means/Methods vary its a 1999 model #G6A-8E with electronic ignition293Views0likes0CommentsAtwood heater problem
hi I have an Atwood heater that I am having trouble with. The heater will not stay running. Got to dark to look into it tonight but just looking for any ideas as to what it may be. When I turn the switch on the water heater fires up and runs for about 5 seconds before shutting down. I did check the thermostats by disconnecting and bypassing them. Had no effect. I think the control board is ok because I do get a spark to light the unit. Any clues?675Views0likes6CommentsAtwood heater problem
hi I have an Atwood heater that I am having trouble with. The heater will not stay running. Got to dark to look into it tonight but just looking for any ideas as to what it may be. When I turn the switch on the water heater fires up and runs for about 5 seconds before shutting down. I did check the thermostats by disconnecting and bypassing them. Had no effect. I think the control board is ok because I do get a spark to light the unit. Any clues?835Views0likes9CommentsRe: Class A MA Propane Storage in Garage
msmith1199 wrote: You may wish to check with the language in the law. Specifically is a tank built into a motorhome considered "storage" per that law. They may just be talking about loose tanks like for a barbeque. But even at that this law doesn't seem to make sense as you can't even have a barbeque there since most tanks are bigger than that? That's my thought. I would be more concerned about the 75 gallons of gas that is in the MH as I always top it off when I come home.147Views0likes0CommentsClass A MA Propane Storage in Garage
just looking for some info. I live in MA I have a class A motor home with what I believe to be a 40 pound propane tank, I am building a garage attached to my house to store my RV in when I am not using it. I need to get a variance for side yard setback. One of the conditions the fire department is requiring is that I store no more than 2.7 pounds per living unit and no more than 5.4 aggregate pounds of propane in cylinders. Was wondering if anyone knows a way around this requirement. The tank is built into the chassis so I cannot remove it and store it outside. So my feeling is do they want me to empty the tank before I put it into the garage.? I will talk to the fire department to see if there is a misunderstanding about the tank.4KViews0likes22Comments
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Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Apr 11, 201438,731 Posts
