itsjustjer
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Re: Dometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing
enblethen wrote: No, you would not need to do anything else except replace element. It is just a double check that is the problem. Ok got it. I’ll double check it before I buy anything or start tearing stuff apart. Thanks for your help!984Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing
enblethen wrote: Yes, but check with Ohm meter for continuity between ground and the leads. Commonly, the element goes to ground where it enters the stack. I’ll check that out to see if it is shorted to ground. What would that mean if it is? Would I need to do something else if it is?985Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing
I unplugged the heating element and turned the fridge back on. The fuse did not blow and the volt meter showed 123v going to the fuse and the connection point for the heating element. That would mean the heating element is the problem, right?985Views0likes0CommentsDometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing
I have an older RM2652 (product number: 921 14 40-02 if that helps). It will run on gas just fine, but when I try to run it on AC the 5A fuse that leads to the AC heating element will blow. I’m trying to determine if I need to replace the circuit board or the heating element. Or possibly something else? If the parts weren’t so costly I’d just shotgun it and replace both components, but I need to be deliberate about what I replace with this. Thanks in advance for any help!4.1KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Bunkhouses similar to 272BHS with light hitch weight
Gdetrailer wrote: itsjustjer wrote: Pardon me if I come across as frustrated with this post, but if we can’t depend on ANY numbers from the vehicle or the RV manufacturer to be correct, then how has anyone ever purchased a vehicle and RV and known they were within their limits until after the fact? Maybe we’ll just rent whatever model we’re thinking of buying and take it to the scale. Even then, that particular trailer isn’t going to weigh the same as the specific one we’ll be buying. Sorry that the answers you are getting do not fit your idea of a proper tow vehicle/trailer match. Folks ARE giving you straight up GOOD ADVICE on tongue weight, I would REALLY RECOMMEND HEEDING THIS ADVICE. 10% tongue weight is THE ABSOLUTE MINIMUM, it IS LESS THAN IDEAL putting YOU AND YOUR FAMILY IN TO A PLACE YOU DO NOT WISH TO GO. That is especially true when "Mr MURPHY" decides to cross your path at the wrong time (like going down hill on a major Interstate at say 70 MPH and a deer jumps across the road). That is when you WILL be WISHING you had 15% tongue weight or more.. For each % above 10% you will find the trailer will track better and be much more stable. Some say 12%, some say 13% but personally, myself I LOVE 15%.. Yeah, I HAVE encountered not once but TWICE deer running right across the road while on a major Interstate while running 70 MPH.. Both times I was able to fully keep control of my vehicle and trailer without even changing lanes. Granted in both cases I am driving a F250 with 6500 lbs of 26 ft trailer behind me and not once did it ever feel like I was about to lose control. My tongue weight? 975 lbs loaded.. 15% Empty weight of 5500 lbs I have 770 lbs on the tongue or 14%. You simply will not like how your trailer tows if you run 10% tongue weight and most likely will be back complaining about it.. Tongue weight is your friend.. I understand what you’re saying and that’s fine. My frustration comes from the inability to calculate ANY weight to ANY certain degree seeing as how it’s impossible to know that any weight is actually accurate from the manufacturer. How has anyone ever purchased a vehicle and camper and known they’d be compatible if we can’t rely on payload numbers or tongue weight numbers from the manufacturer? There are a lot of campers I’ve looked at that state they have close to 3k lbs cargo carrying capacity. I’ve dragged out everything we had in our old camper and weighed it, plus weighed way more clothes than we’d ever bring realistically, plus so much more gear that we’d probably just shove in the camper to store it and probably never actually use. All of that weighs about 650 lbs (I think it was 644). I just rounded that up to 1k lbs because maybe we’ll want to travel with a tank of water sometime. Now there is a huge difference between adding an additional 1k lbs to the dry weight versus adding an additional 3k lbs to the dry weight. I’m all for over estimating (as you may have noticed), but over estimating by 2k lbs is kind of overkill considering everything else has been overestimated already. This is my problem with saying we’ll use the GVWR on a trailer. However, if we can’t rely on the dry weight to be even remotely accurate then how is it even possible for someone to know what weight they’re supposed to add their gear weight onto to find their loaded weight? That’s the frustration.541Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bunkhouses similar to 272BHS with light hitch weight
drsteve wrote: itsjustjer wrote: I feel like I should clarify my original post to inform that I’m not trying to manipulate the hitch weight, but find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible. One camper with a 5k dry weight has a 500lb hitch weight (when dry) and another 5k camper has an 750 hitch weight (when dry). So that tells me the manufacturer built that 750 hitch weight camper with more weight toward the front obviously. Both 5k lbs, but one has 250lbs more payload on the truck before you even load it up. The disparity only gets greater as the loaded weight of the camper gets greater. What I’m asking in my original post is if anyone knows of a camper that (by design of the manufacturer) has as good of (or better) hitch weight ratio than the 272BHS. Not looking for ways to lighten or misappropriate the weight in a way that was not designed by the manufacturer. You are assuming that the manufacturer's dry tongue weight number is accurate. There is no assurance that this is the case. Pardon me if I come across as frustrated with this post, but if we can’t depend on ANY numbers from the vehicle or the RV manufacturer to be correct, then how has anyone ever purchased a vehicle and RV and known they were within their limits until after the fact? Maybe we’ll just rent whatever model we’re thinking of buying and take it to the scale. Even then, that particular trailer isn’t going to weigh the same as the specific one we’ll be buying.220Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bunkhouses similar to 272BHS with light hitch weight
twodownzero wrote: itsjustjer wrote: I guess an easier way to put it would be: We have a total of 820 lbs of payload left after everything. What is a good bunkhouse floor plan with a hitch weight we can safely accommodate? If you are going to use a 1/2 ton tow vehicle, you should be looking at lightweight 25' travel trailers at the most. Minimizing hitch weight to prevent overloading your tow vehicle is a recipe for disaster. It will make the trailer inherently unstable and it'll be especially unsafe on a vehicle with passenger tires. Fortunately there are a gazillion lightweight 25 footers out there with empty weights quite a bit lighter than the model you're looking at, so you should have no problem finding one that will be light enough to solve your problem. Or do what I'd do and buy a 3/4 ton Suburban. Thanks for the info on the 25 footers. I’ll narrow down to them and see what kind of floor plans they offer. I feel like I should clarify my original post to inform that I’m not trying to manipulate the hitch weight, but find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible. One camper with a 5k dry weight has a 500lb hitch weight (when dry) and another 5k camper has an 750 hitch weight (when dry). So that tells me the manufacturer built that 750 hitch weight camper with more weight toward the front obviously. Both 5k lbs, but one has 250lbs more payload on the truck before you even load it up. The disparity only gets greater as the loaded weight of the camper gets greater. What I’m asking in my original post is if anyone knows of a camper that (by design of the manufacturer) has as good of (or better) hitch weight ratio than the 272BHS. Not looking for ways to lighten or misappropriate the weight in a way that was not designed by the manufacturer.219Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 20, 202544,029 Posts
