gshantz
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Re: leaky roof repair
ItsyRV wrote: Let see, you had the roof replaced 2 years ago and after discovering some water, they did some additional sealing but the problems still exist? All other indication was the job was done professional and they were unable to find any leaks when you returned to them? Actually about a yr and a half ago. And what Big Katuna said is more correct. It was a peal and seal. Sorry if I made it sound like a full roof replacement. ItsyRV wrote: If so, exactly where are you finding the moisture? On RV's just like a home, water can enter one place but not show visible signs until it migrates to another place. Is the moisture in the bedroom area, bath, wardrobe? Along the walls, seams, corners or just the floor? Originally, there were signs of leakage (moldy stains) in the front right, inside the cabinet, and on the left side a little in the kitchen, bath and bedroom. All on the ceiling carpet along the edge of the wall. Never any dripping, just discoloration. The moisture appeared to be coming from the outside edge. The only place I can tell any moisture now, is the bedroom. donn0128 scares the **** out me. Even though he may be right, when I started, I didn't know it was such a serious job. The only damage had been the white sealer started to peel, and the replacement product was the recommended 2 part, 2 stage coating which the materials cost in the order of $700 by my estimates on line. Before I would/could pay $10,000, I'd take it to phoenix and let a good Mexican tradesman work at it in his spare time. I hear they do excellent work. We've put so much $$ into other repairs to the engine and generator, I think it would be a mistake to trade it in. We enjoy the use of this rig immensely and take many weekend trips quite often. I hate to have it tied up for a long time. Thanks for the feedback. GS325Views0likes0Commentsleaky roof repair
I have 1998 Fleetwood Discovery 35 ft, with a rubber roof. 2 years ago, the white coating started to peel, and had it redone professionally last year (after it had started a few leaks.) In Arizona, it doesn't rain that often and it took me a long time to discover whether the leaks were new or old. By this time, the mold was becoming a problem. A Discovery has the arched roof with "carpet" on the inside. Since the roof is installed at the factory AFTER the walls are up, there is a fair amount of unexposed ceiling/carpet sandwiched between the side wall and the ceiling. When the roof was redone, the integrity of everything looked excellent, and I thought they did a good job. (Nearly $1,000) However, this summer we had longer than usual monsoons, and by the time it stopped raining, the weather was starting to get cooler. I took the rig back to the shop that did the refinishing, and they could not see anything wrong, so ran an extra bead of dicor caulk down both sides. (where the one piece roof meets the walls.) There still seems to be an area near the back that is leaking, but how can you know that it isn't from trapped moisture in the wall/ceiling? I've inspected as best as I can, but can't see anything obvious. After having spent so much already, I hate to have someone tear the roof off and start over. Can anyone make suggestions? I've even read of "pressurizing" the coach to look for air bubbles outside for a point of entry. The aluminum trim that covers the junction/interface between the roof and the walls, is pop-riveted in place. So it may or may not be practical to remove it all, unless the roof is in fact replaced. We're starting to go into winter weather and I have no place to keep it under cover. It might be Arizona, but we still get snow! Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, GS1.2KViews0likes9CommentsRe: freightliner suspension
Well, I'm a little slow getting back here after my trip to Tucson. I had changed the tire pressures according to specs as mentioned above (90r and 80f), and had resolved to not obsess with handling and just enjoy the ride to Tucson. (About 4 hours away) I would say that the difference in ride was very subtle and for the better, but in general had to struggle to maintain my own lane. There was some cross wind, but nothing unusual. I found the drive to be much more tiring than it used to be. Very disappointing. When time and money permits, I'll have the alignment thoroughly checked out. Need a seal coat on the roof first before winter. Supposed to have a big winter this year. Fortunately, in Arizona, our roads never stay icy for long and we will likely head south around Christmas. (Weather permitting.) Again, thanks for all the posts and suggestions. GS559Views0likes0CommentsRe: freightliner suspension
holstein13 wrote: I think I found the Toyo RV inflation guide here. It would be nice to know your corner weights, but if your tires are equally loaded, it looks like you would use 90 PSI in the front and 90 in the rear tires as well. So I think you are correct. I would definitely call Freightliner and get a good four corner alignment done. Look up your ride heights and have them adjust that as well. The rear wheel alignment can be as important as the front -- especially the way you are describing the rear going wide. While they are checking your suspension, have them check for loose connections, ball joints, etc. Except for dropping the fronts down 20 lbs to 80 PSI as you point out, I'm nearly at Toyo's specs. (Thanks for the page link.) I'll do that before our next trip over the coming holiday - only 50 miles. :-) Right now I need to save some more pennies before taking it in for a checkup. I like your suggestion of things to have them check up on. It just blows me away as to how changing tires could make all that much difference in the ride. As I said, I'll be sure to let you know when I get further info. GS559Views0likes0CommentsRe: freightliner suspension
Mr.Mark wrote: FIRE UP wrote: WILDEBILL308 wrote: What are your axel weights and what is the recommended tier pressure? What load range tiers are you running? Did it drive ok before? Bill Yep, That's what I was going to ask too. Do make sure that your psi in the tires corresponds to the ACTUAL weight of the coach. And yes, I was also going to ask how well the coach handled BEFORE any tire changes. While it would be time consuming and, maybe a bit of a cost involved, it might be worth it to change all the new tires BACK to the originals, IF, the company still had them. This of course, is just a suggestion. Scott Scott, kinda surprised that you want him to put his old and cracked tires back on. That's an accident waiting to happen. Or, did you mean purchased the exact same brand as the old tires? Gerald, I've only changed tires once on our previous motorhome. There was no difference in ride or handling the day I drove off in the new tires. I did change to the exact same tire brand and size. Hope that you can get it straightened out. Good luck. MM. Well I got the rig weighed yesterday. After filling the water tank, and having a half tank of fuel, the GVWR was 21,820 lbs. Front axle was 7,340 lbs. and rear was 14,480 lbs. The manufacturer's specs were: GVWR 24,850 lbs Frnt 9,350 lbs @ 100 PSI Rear 15,500 lbs @ 90 PSI The tire specs were for the Michelin 235/80R 22.5 As everyone likely knows, that size is Michelin's own proprietary size. But like I posted earlier, the Toyo specs are VERY close. Bill, I would glady have paid them to put the old tires back on just to check and see that my memory isn't out of wack concerning the ride. However, I'm sure they are long gone. Posted By wrote: Some tires require a break in, usually 500-1000 miles. The heat cycles will help the nylon belted tire to stabilize. I found this comment interesting if not encouraging. Tonight I lowered the air pressure in the rear to 90 PSI and had my son both drive the unit and follow me to observe any irregularities. He saw none and left as bewildered as myself. Changing the air pressure may have had a slight benefit, but after nursing an ouchie for awhile, it becomes so hypersensitive, it begins to feel twice a large as it really is. So I guess my next step will be to have the alignment checked, but that will have to wait a bit. Another option I thought of was to take it to the Freightliner service place and get their opinion -- particularly concerning the actual chassis. I want to thank all the responders for their suggestions and personal experiences. If I find anything of significance, I'll be sure to post it. GS559Views0likes0CommentsRe: freightliner suspension
Ivylog wrote: I had much the same problem with new tires. Told the truck tire place I wanted 90 psi in all six tires based on the weight carried. A coach that handled well went to one with the back end all over the place. Checked the pressures and they were all 120... decreased to 90 and problem solved. OP, what were your pressures before putting new tires on? Your problem is not too little air pressure, it's too much... especially with new tires. I find this most interesting, but they put them all to 100 PSI just as I had been using before. (I checked the pressures before going back to the tire dealer.) I've been looking at the Michelin specs of the OEM tires and comparing them to the Toyo tires I got and they are really close. The only difference I see from the manufacturer's specs, is they recommend the 100 PSI in the front and 90 in the rear. This is irrespective of the actual weight, which I'm still trying to obtain. Also there was only one of the tires that was the originl Michelin -- the others had been replaced before I got the rig with other odd makes. When I get the weights, I'll check back here. Thanks, GS224Views0likes0CommentsRe: freightliner suspension
WILDEBILL308 wrote: What are your axel weights and what is the recommended tier pressure? What load range tiers are you running? Did it drive ok before? Bill I feel a little unprepared for providing the necessary info for this. Sorry. I need a few days to collect the relevant data. For tonight, all I have is the receipt which only shows the tire size -- OSP truck 245/75R 22.5 Toyo M154. They are steel belted radials, but I don't know the specs yet. I'll try to find a scales for actual weight and also get the GAWR. I know I'm loaded pretty heavy. The tire store told me the max pressure was around 120 lbs, but we set them all to 100 lbs. I asked if increasing the pressure would help and they didn't 'think' so. I thought the word "suddenly" would indicate a change from good to bad handling, but I didn't really make it very clear. Yes, I was always so pleased with way the rig handled before - like a dream actually. I don't know if the store kept any kind of record on the removed tires, but doubt it. Being a 1998, it was the old style of tire size and I'm sure they made an effort to match up the new tires. They said the size difference was less that a quarter inch in height and width. Bob Wexler wrote: You may need a four wheel alignment, and ride height adjustment, not just front wheels. If I need to follow through with the alignment, I'll definitely inquire about this. I sure appreciate all the support on this question so quickly. I'll get back ASAP with the other pertinent info.223Views0likes0Commentsfreightliner suspension
I have a 1998 Fleetwood Discovery (35 ft. Diesel pusher) with air ride. I just replaced all the tires and afterwards, the ride is suddenly terrible. It feels like I have 4 very low tires in the rear and it sways when making a turn or steering correction. The front steering is very tight and if I make a short turn (not quite enough for a lane change)and then hold the steering wheel steady, there is about a 2 second delay and then the rear sways in the opposite direction enough to make a large direction change - enough to actually change lanes. I went back to the tire company and they even changed the back tires around to no avail. Their only recommendation was to pay for a $200 front end alignment. What bothers me most is that no one seems to have heard of such a thing happening. The tread on the tires I replaced were not worn, just old and cracked. Has anyone got a suggestion as to where to look for answers? Thanks7.1KViews0likes24Comments
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