All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 15 k lilrocker sliding hitchSorry if this is of no use but on the LR hitch the handle points "up" to align the protrusion on the shaft with the channel in the outside casing the shaft slides in. Then you can pull out the bar into the "open" position to hitch up the trailer. Probably thought of that but when I got mine it took a few minutes to figure it out :)so I did not want to assume anything. Hope this is it for it will be a very easy fix. :) Also I drilled a hole into the shaft in order to place a safety pin to lock the handle in place as I am going down the road. Mine did not have a locking pin at all.Re: lil rocker slider hitchhttp://rbwindustries.com/1786.htm Link above for RBW manuals. I have the RBW LR-1000 and pulled down a manual for it from there. Hope this helps...good luck o/Re: batterieshttp://rvroadtrip.us/library/12v_system.php Hello, A nice article on 12v systems for reference. It also has a diagram to show how to connect the 2 batteries together. Have fun!Re: Keystone Cougar Warranty DENIAL!We all know that money is not the issue but the arrogance displayed is. Thank you for posting Jet. For whether the Cougar manufacturer understands it or not, the customers always win in the end. If resolution of this incident is on your radar then several here have given you some very good advice. Take a deep breath, focus on the facts, and continue up the food chain. I for one would pursue this just out of principle. Personally I will be shocked if the da’King does not get a reality check from upper management in the end. If not then we will know that this company is headed for the corporate scrap heap like so many others that have lost their focus. It may take some time but the outcome is inevitable.Re: Buying used 5 th wheelGreetings QC, I am new at this but would like to share what I have recently learned. Painfully learned I might add. The already posted points do not need repeating but here is a couple more I have learned about. 1. Flashlight in hand, ready to get on your hands and knees, inspect every nook and cranny. Checking for any soft spots in the flooring. Inspect along the walls at floor level especially behind the kitchen cabinets. Pull out drawers, open doors, and be meticulous about your inspection. 2.Do not only check the quality of seal on the roof, but walk around the outside looking at every point a receptacle or any other place where the sheet metal skin has been penetrated allowing a possible entry point for water. Is the seal tight or has the caulking pulled away from the skin over time? If it has that does not mean there has been a leak but calls for closer inspection in that area. 3. Look for any place that the interior skin of the walls may have ripples where the facing of the paneling has pulled away from the wall. This may indicate water intrusion. 4. Inspect the connection points between the cabinets and the ceiling looking for sagging or anything other than a straight consistent joint between the cabinets and the surface they are attached to. To be honest the list goes on and others may point out key areas. But the most important thing is your common sense, do NOT be in a rush, do NOT be enamored with how nice it looks as you approach the unit. Stay objective and inspect every surface you can. Especially those that are not in direct sight, behind cabinets, behind drawers, in storage areas like the basement. What recently happened to me: I had a professional look at the trailer for me this time. He spotted a small (so he thought) soft spot in the floor in the area of the outside shower attachment. However everything else looked great from the roof to the basement. But when I was looking for the power converter to see what was actually in the 5er I noticed a place the plywood surround of the storage area for the electrical cord for shore power had signs of water stains. Well as you can guess the “small area” of water damage turned out to be a much larger problem. When I followed the trail of water stains I found that the caulking between the exterior door for the shore power cord had shrunk, pulled away from the sheet metal, and allowed water penetration. The rest is history =/ The lessoned learned: You cannot be too meticulous, you will not spend too much time inspecting, and if the seller gets impatient with your efforts that is your first sign to keep looking. Now these are blanket statements and need to be balanced with commonsense, but valid nonetheless. You may decide to purchase anyway but especially with water damage, the repair costs can mount up quickly and can easily exceed the value of the older units. Not doom and gloom but with a wise approach you can find yourself a very nice older unit. One other point of advice given to me on these forums that is worth repeating. With the age of the vehicle you are looking at, the care with which it has been maintained is most often more important that the reputation of the manufacturer. Success to you on your future purchase, GHG1999 Terry 27.5k by FleetwoodFolks the 5ver we purchased, and unfortunately were taken on, was just going to be to big of a problem for us to handle in the time frame allowed for repairs. This resulted in us asking around and one of our good friends/neighbors has a friend selling an immaculate 1999 Terry 5er. This trailer is below NADA low book by $2000. I am having it inspected tomorrow by a professional RV tech. So my question now is focusing on the brand reputation to weigh in on the decision making process. So community, any input for us? Does Terry/Fleetwood have a good reputation or a poor one? Is the quality dependent on the site of manufacture or does the company quality control actually work through out all facilities? I know this is a broad based question but just looking for some input is all. "Safety in a multitude of Counselors" are words one can live by. I sure wish I had applied them when purchasing our first RV. Well live and learn, keep smiling, and do NOT make the same mistake twice! =P Anyway thank you to all who have input for us. Take care o/Re: Guideance or support material to learn fromThanks WestEnd that is a fantastic link for me to visualize what I am ripping into. Just pulled it into the barn and going to start on this project. And for the most part you are correct DryCamper11 but for me visualizing things and having a basic idea of how these are put together will help a lot. A little knowledge going in is empowering and hopefully keep me from creating a lot of unnecessary work. Kind of like the old "measure twice and cut once" maxim. :) Cabinet removal is going to be the first hurdle, and from what I have read they were not built with the idea of R&R at all.Guideance or support material to learn fromBottom line of the request is that what I “thought” was a small problem is in actuality a very large problem. I fear I have inherited some left over problems from the previous owner. I have some significant structural repairs to the floor wood beams, and the adjoining wall across the back of the 5er. Cabinet removal and replacement is going to be a must and I would really appreciate some guidance. I have good carpentry skills, tools, and a barn to work in however time is not on my side. The work does not appear to be heavy in nature so with care I think I can pull it off by working smarter not harder. But anyway you cut it this job will be difficult and tedious. Any links to good web material of any sort, books, videos and the like, that someone would like to suggest would be greatly appreciated. I want to do this right so I can sell at some time with a clear conscience. Any suggestions, warnings, tidbits learned from experienced gained would be very valuable. Or if anyone knows of a trustworthy RV tech in the Portland, OR area they could share contact information on would also be of a great help. A quote I noticed on one of the threads really fits here: "good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment"....... Will Rogers It seems clear I have qualified for the second half of that quote at least. :) Thank you for considering this request…take care o/Re: Hello folks o/Thank you all for the input. With your comments and a bit of research myself, we have decided to mount the HiJacker on our new towing rig. Take care o/Hello folks o/My wife,also my best friend for the last 40 years, and I are new around here and we have jumped in with both feet. New members of Good Sam, picked up the Road Side Assistance, and plan on hitting the road in April or May of 2014 with no plans of looking back. Except to keep in constant touch with our three beautiful daughters and all the amazing grandsons they have given us to enjoy. :B So right out of the gate I would like to ask for your esteemed opinions on an immediate decision we need to make. We just purchased a different truck to facilitate our future travels. That truck is a Chevy K3500 Dually that just happened to come with an installed fifth wheel hitch as part of the package. The hitch is a RBW standard hitch with a 15000 lb rating and it looks to be in good condition. The Hijacker we have is much newer along with being a Dual Pivot Ultimate Slide rated at 16000 lb. With the new rig we no longer need the slider function but the HiJacker is a beast compared to the RBW. Which means it is also a beast to pull out of the truck bed when we need to compared to the comparatively light RBW hitch. Both hitches are more than capable of handling our fifth-wheel so I am wondering if I should stay with the installed older and lighter hitch or pay for the HiJacker to be installed with the dual pivot feature and just deal with the pain in the bu…err back :p while dealing with the size of it. I really do not have a clue what would be best and would appreciate the advice anyone would like to give for us to consider. Thank you in advance to any and all responders who take the time to share your thoughts based upon your experience. It will truly be appreciated :) Take care o/
GroupsFifth Wheel Group Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts