All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutions220v in 110v systemMy in-law accidently plugged my 30amp coach into a 220 dryer outlet. Now I'm trying to figure out if the ac side of the fridge is ruined. I already pulled the exterior cover and found one burnt fuse that I replaced. The control panel on the inside functions properly changing over to ac when shore power is connected but it will only cool if I switch it over to gas. Does anyone know of any other fuses I can check? I already pulled all the fuses on the inside and they're good. Does anyone know of a capacitor or other eletrical componet that may have burnt up that I can replace? So far other that the tv and dvd player everything has been protected by fuses and are working again after replacing the fuse. Fingers crossed on the fridge!!!Re: Intellitec SheddingBeen running for 24 hours and still shedding regularly. Breakers are cool to the touch. System isn't overloaded at all. It's a controller problem. Just wanted any info if running in test mode could damage the unit. Everything I read says it just puts the ac in high cool. Not sure what it'll do if I leave it in test mode for a few hours?Intellitec SheddingI'm running 30amp service but I have a cheater on the rear AC to the pedestal 20amp so the 30 amp is only powering the coach and the front AC. No matter what I do the front AC it's going into shid every 3 to 5 minutes. The hot water heater is on gas and so is the refrigerator. If I flip the test switch on the controller to front it will go into high cool and run fine. Does anyone know if running in this mode risk any damage to the front AC? As a side note the front AC is brand new and a high efficiency unit. On the meter only draws around 10-12.5amps on high cool. The controller acted up last year and the technician said the controller under the refrigerator needed to be replaced but it quit acting up and hadn't had any problems until now. I'm basically looking to get through Memorial Day weekend and don't want to burn up a brand-new air-conditioner.Re: Coleman Mach IdentificationThanks Chris!! I looked again at the cover and you are correct it is a Super Mach. Thanks for the help!!Re: Coleman Mach IdentificationNewman I have no idea? How would I tell?Re: Coleman Mach IdentificationFourth digit is a 9..??Coleman Mach IdentificationI've got a 2001 Fleetwood Expedition 36t with Coleman Mach roof top air conditioners. The model number on the unit is 6799B801. I've looked online and I can't seem to find if the units are 13,500 or 15,000 BTU. Anyone know or know where I can find which units I have?Inverter/Charger mysteryCan anyone think of any reason why my house batteries seem to charge when running the generator but not the shore power cord? House batteries are brand new. 2001 Fleetwood Expedition 36t with 30amp service. FYI I did check the outlet I'm plugged into plus everything 110 is working while on shore power. I beginning to think gremlins are real and are living in my electrical system!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Re: A/C Tripping breakerOh also everyone I'm really not looking at low voltage overall because the rear ac which is the exact size never trips the breaker. I've also already checked all the connections for loose wires.Re: A/C Tripping breakerThanks for the suggestions everyone. I put a meter on the unit and after a few minutes of running after the compressor came on I saw a reading of 13.35amps. I turned fridge on gas and made sure everything else was off and checked main 30amp breaker draw and the reading was exactly the same at 13.35amps. Now I didn't get out there until 6:00pm and the weather had cooled off some but still in the low 90's. I let it run for about two hours with the thermostat set on 60 so it would not cycle and rechecked. 13.65amps. Where in the hell am I picking up over 6 amps from to trip the breaker?????? I noticed when the compressor started up that the meter had a spike in the 41 amp range but it's a cheap little meter without min/max recall capability so I'm not sure how accurate it was. Does anyone know what the peak draw at compressor start up should be?? Does anyone think the start capacitor could be just weak but still working some?? When it heats up in the hottest part of the day and the compressor cycles the start up draw is what's doing it due to a weak but still functioning capacitor?? I took the cover off and the capacitor looks fine. No corrosion, leaking, or bulging at all. I did pull what looked like factory insulation tape off the cover so I'm assuming it's original. I'm at a loss that it lines out under 14 amps and will kick the 20 amp and sometimes the 30 amp breaker. ??????