All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Class C built in propane tank.I'll figure out the correct sizing when I order. What I was hoping for was another RV'er having a recommendation on a preferred company that sells them at a discount.Re: Class C built in propane tank. Lwiddis wrote: A leaking tank in your RV? What size is the current tank’s size? The valve leaked during fill and I had to fully open or it leaked halfway open. I think 7 gallon but probably not exactly that.Class C built in propane tank.I want to replace my propane tank. It is old from 1998 and looks very rusted. I know my valve leaks and the fill place added a secondary valve to it years ago. At one time I had a contact in Phoenix AZ for propane tanks and there prices were very reasonable. I thought it was no big deal to buy when ready. Now when I search and I cant find the company and it has been too long. Also the prices I am finding are very high in the $500 range. Is there any great place to buy a replacement propane tank that I can order or looking local Phoenix area. I could swear if found them for around $150 back then. Thanks, CurtisRe: Lost 12V to Propane sensor alarmI replaced it 2 years ago.Re: Lost 12V to Propane sensor alarmHouse battery or engine battery?Lost 12V to Propane sensor alarmI had another propane solenoid go out and this time it took out the 12V to the propane alarm. The propane alarm powered the solenoid. I decided to eliminate the propane solenoid and just use alarm. I can't figure out where the 12V comes from because all of my DC fuses are good. I ended up taping into a light switch above the propane alarm to get it back going but would like to discover the power scheme they use and if there is another location for that fuse. 1998 Fleetwood Jamboree GT 31' Class C.Re: Slide out issuesThe big plastic gears on the actual slide rack and pinion looked ok and the internal gears of the motor were ok. I load tested it after I removed and no jumping on motor itself. My woodruff key was in place still. The outer square tube is screwed into the wood base of RV upside down and I'm considering it may have a slotted mount to square it up. I may have pushed it out of alignment and the outer and inner tube may be out of alignment. I'm going to go check it out.Re: Slide out issuesPossibly. The railing is pretty beefy on the slide though so would be surprised at that. Anyone have any recommendations for RV place in Phoenix, AZ?Slide out issuesHi. Wanted to post this in hopes that someone has some ideas. Going on trip in a couple of weeks and want to get this thing going. A few months back on a trip I did something to my slide out. I opened slide out into tree branch. It was a small branch and I though I could nudge it over with slide out rather than repositioning RV. My mistake. I've had issues with slide out ever since. Hard to move and jumping as it moves. My RV is 1997 Fleetwood Jamboree GT 31'. Has the big living room slide with couch and dinette. Slide is hydra slide DC1-104-75-B. I removed motor and what a pain to do, disassembled and the gears looked fine. I put it back together and reinstalled(pain). While it was out I ran it both directions and cycled fine. I grabbed motor with all my force to try and simulate a load and all was fine. After reinstall I added a switch at motor so I could control from at motor and watch it. Still jumping and move it in a little. Now it wont move back out. I can hear motor engage and measure voltage but no move. The wires are getting hot the entire run, I'm assuming because of current of trying to move. I'm ready to take it to a dealer if anyone has any recommendations for a RV repair place in Phoenix that may have a slideout specialty. I'm going to continue to try and get it to come out with maybe a hydraulic jack and prybar assist to help motor get it going a little. I really need it out to try to make any adjustments. I usually figure this stuff out on my RV but so far stumped and not experienced with slideout diagnostics. Any help or recommendations appreciated.Re: Winegard customer rsupportI did send email and they responded so I guess that is the trick. I'm going to try the dielectric grease as one last shot before my trip to see if it will move. If not I need to send my entire assembly back so they can unscrew the pcb and install a new one.