jjinatx
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Re: Propane tanks
My auto switchover has started acting weird. Now, if I point the switch to a full tank, the indicator shows red, even after running appliances for quite a while. If I turn off that tank, it will switch over to the other tank like it should, but the indicator turns green. So now, green is the new red It used to work like it should and if the tank (cylinder) pointed to ran out, it would turn red, but now it turns green. So the indicator somehow got out of sync, backwards. Anybody else have this same issue and know how to get it back in sync? And no, I'm not an ignorant newbie, I've had RVs with auto switchover regulator for 20 years, so I do know how they work. The switchover function works OK, so I don't think I need to change out the regulator. But getting used to green meaning empty is kind of weird. -jj540Views0likes0CommentsTop of The World Highway?
Anybody driven the Top of the World Highway between Dawson City, YT and Chicken, AK yet this summer? I've been on it a couple of times in the last 20 years with a truck camper, but this time it will be pulling a 5th wheel. Just wondering if it's a good idea or not. -jj599Views0likes1CommentRe: CURT Q20 Slop and Noise
jjinatx wrote: Tried to add the 2 missing rubber pads. Problem is, that I cannot get the pins back in. The pads are too thick to go in the gap between the R20 base and the rear ISR. I'll try fabbing some thinner pads from scrap EPDM pond liner and try those tomorrow. -jj OK, I fabbed a couple of pads from EPDM. The pond liner is slightly less than half as thick as the Curt pad, so I tried stacking 2 of them, but still couldn't get the pins in. I ended up with just 1 on each side. Don't know how they'll hold up, but for now they take the slack out. As for getting any info from Curt, forget it. I sent a contact form to them asking about these issues and have received no response. The same thing happened last year when I contacted them about another issue - no response. Thanks for all the replies. I'm stuck with this hitch for the next trip, but I'll probably replace it after I get back. I wish I had started this a couple of weeks earlier. I would have had time to replace it before this trip. -jj872Views0likes0CommentsRe: CURT Q20 Slop and Noise
jjinatx wrote: Durb wrote: I had start/stop clanking with my ISR mounted hitch. I remedied the situation by using Curt 16900 sound deadening pads. Four bucks for a set of four on Amazon. I took out the front pins and pried the hitch up enough to mount the pads. Repeated the process for the rears. Really easy. I went out to the truck and found out that the end of roller mount towards the cab has pads and the end towards the tailgate doesn't. So, the installer left them out for some reason. Since I have the pads, I'll go out today and see if I can lift that end and slide them in. The cab end is snug, The tailgate end is where the play is. Tried to add the 2 missing rubber pads. I was able to lift the end of the R20 with a crow bar enough to slip the pads over the nubs that sit in the rail holes. Problem is, that I cannot get the pins back in. The pads are too thick to go in the gap between the R20 base and the rear ISR. I didn't want to beat on the pins with a hammer for fear of distorting the, but I did use a chunk of wood (poor man's dead blow hammer) to try to tap them through but couldn't do it. Guess that's why the installer didn't put them in. And before you ask, yes, the rails are also made by CURT. I'll try fabbing some thinner pads from scrap EPDM pond liner and try those tomorrow. While out there, I noticed that 4 of the 8 wheels the slider rolls on aren't touching the R20 base. This is unloaded, so I don't know if they all touch with the pin weight on the hitch. I'll see next time I hook up. -jj872Views0likes0CommentsRe: CURT Q20 Slop and Noise
Durb wrote: I had start/stop clanking with my ISR mounted hitch. I remedied the situation by using Curt 16900 sound deadening pads. Four bucks for a set of four on Amazon. I took out the front pins and pried the hitch up enough to mount the pads. Repeated the process for the rears. Really easy. I went out to the truck and found out that the end of roller mount towards the cab has pads and the end towards the tailgate doesn't. So, the installer left them out for some reason. Since I have the pads, I'll go out today and see if I can lift that end and slide them in. The cab end is snug, The tailgate end is where the play is. Actually, I am more interested hearing about whether the front to back slop between the hitch pin and the hitch jaws is fairly normal and noticeable. I know there has to be a somewhat loose fit, but should I notice it when stopping and accelerating? I do check that the jaws are locked solid when I hitch up by raising the front struts a bit off the ground and manually locking the trailer brakes with the controller and giving a good tug. Durb wrote: If you do get the Blue Ox Super Ride, send back a review on the hitch to this forum. I've only read one and it was very positive. I'm surprised the hitch doesn't get more play with all the positive features it has. I've seen posts on other sites about the Super Ride and they are positive. Smooths out the ride and is easy to remove and install. Also the slider function is easy to use if you need it. It's a real bear with the CURT. If you aren't perfectly level, the weight of the trailer binds the locking mechanism and it is very hard or impossible to switch to the other position. Fortunately I've never really need it and only use it to get more clearance between the truck and trailer so I can open my front compartment all the way. I did use it once when I had to hitch up at an angle and the tailgate down would have hit the trailer.872Views0likes0CommentsCURT Q20 Slop and Noise
Hello, I'm a fairly new fiver hauler. I have a CURT Q20 and R20 slider combo on my F350 that was installed as part of the deal on the new truck. I've towed a 11,000# Grand Design about 7,000 miles total between many campsites. I religiously maintain the hitch, greasing according to the manual and etrailer's youtube video. I use the teflon plate that came with the hitch. Just about every time I hook up, I spray the jaws and the pin with heavy duty silicon. I noticed that after stopping, like for a traffic light, when I take off again there is a jolt like the pin has come forward a bit during the stop and is moving back against the jaws on acceleration. Is this normal? Or do I have something to worry about? Also the hitch is pretty noisy when maneuvering. Lots of clunking. I noticed there is some play between the R20 base and the ISR rails. I can jiggle it slightly up and down. Also, there is some play between the R20 wheels and its base. Again, I can jiggle it up and down a bit. I assume that's the source of the clunking. When I took delivery of the truck, with hitch installed, there was a plastic bag containing the teflon pad and 2 rubber pads shaped like rectangular donuts. I assume these are pads to go between the ISR and the R20. I also assumed these are just a couple of spares, but maybe they didn't put any pads on the ISR, or just installed 2 of them. I don't know if I can check without lifting the whole hitch off the ISR with my front end loader. If I go to all that trouble, I may just lift it out completely and swap in a Blue Ox Super Ride and put the CURT on craigslist. Any advice sincerely appreciated. We're leaving on a jaunt to Alaska soon and want to make sure I won't have any issues on the trip. -jj5.8KViews0likes32CommentsRV Parking at Living Dessert SP, New Mexico?
Our route is taking us past Living Desert State Park in New Mexico. We would just like to stop there to see the exhibits, but don't really want to go to a campground, unhook the 5th wheel, and spend the night, as we are a bit pressed for time. Does anyone know if the have a large overflow lot big enough to park a 29' 5th wheel and short bed truck? Thanks. -jj1.4KViews0likes7CommentsF150 Melting Fuel Pump Fuse TSB
Just had this issue while pulling my trailer at 65 mph with my 012 Super Crew, 5.0. Engine died for about 15 seconds, then came back on with check engine wrench and flashing battery symbol. I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a Flying J parking lot. Shut her down and checked all the battery connections. All tight and no corrosion. Started it back up and no warnings. We were day and half from home, so I took it to the nearest Ford dealer, luckily only 7 miles away from where we were. Service manager put a tester on the battery and it showed good. Then he had a mechanic come out to read the codes. Nothing. Then the mechanic says he thinks he's pretty sure he knows what the problem is and tells us about the TSB. He pops the lid off the fuse box and shows me that the fuse is burned looking on one end. The problem is that the fuse box socket for the fuel pump 20A fuse can't handle a 20 Amp load. the socket gets so hot that the fuse melts - it doesn't blow. The fix is to move the circuit to an unused socket in the fuse block that will handle the current. Ford sells a kit for about $20 to fix this. The TSB is 15-0137. I had them do the fix and after a couple of hours (mostly paper work, proper procedure BS), we were good to go. I think you're nuts if you decide to ignore this TSB fix, because it probably will bite you at a most inopportune time. I sure would have done the fix if I had known about it, before setting out on a 5K mile RV trip, mostly out in the boonies. -jj1.5KViews0likes2Comments
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