I pull a cargo trailer with a class A that has a workbench, fans, lights, and air compressor and two small battery charges in it. I'd like to be able to power the trailer with 110 off the generator while driving and charge batteries while underway. Right now I use an extension cord that I plug in at the campground or when boondocking I run it up the side of the RV and plug it into the RV. I have a good idea of how to get 20 amps of power to the trailer hitch area but I'm having trouble finding a waterproof outlet that I could plug into that really seals and has a cap when not in use. I'd like something similar to the way the trailer connections plug in. Maybe even a twistlock style connector with O-ring seals. I've even thought about using a small waterproof toolbox mounted to the top of the bumper that held 6 foot of cord that I just ran into the trailer when the trailer is hooked up and I could stow the cord away in the box when not pulling the trailer. The trailer has a small door where the cord comes out so I could just run a 12/3 cord in that door. Any thoughts?I saw this over at Ace hardware

I have seen weather tight outlets and plugs @ Home Depot, go in and ask an associate.

TNGW1500SE wrote:I have a good idea of how to get 20 amps of power to the trailer hitch area but I'm having trouble finding a waterproof outlet that I could plug into that really seals and has a cap when not in use.I'm not sure I'd want 120 vac on a cable hanging between vehicles while towing down the highway but that said the connectors you're looking for are Leviton Wetguard connectors. I use 15 amp versions myself that I bought at our local Home Depot but included in the Leviton lineup are heavier 30 amp versions you'd probably have to source them from a supplier that deals with tradesmen and contractors.

Itchey Feet wrote:I have seen weather tight outlets and plugs @ Home Depot, go in and ask an associate.I looked there. They have these but I wonder if that would be good enough going down the road.

SoundGuy wrote:TNGW1500SE wrote:I have a good idea of how to get 20 amps of power to the trailer hitch area but I'm having trouble finding a waterproof outlet that I could plug into that really seals and has a cap when not in use.I'm not sure I'd want 120 vac on a cable hanging between vehicles while towing down the highway but that said the connectors you're looking for are Leviton Wetguard connectors. I use 15 amp versions myself that I bought at our local Home Depot but included in the Leviton lineup are heavier 30 amp versions you'd probably have to source them from a supplier that deals with tradesmen and contractors.That's it! Thanks!

You could easily mount an outside weathertight 120VAC connector with lid as well on your RV unit... Just like on your porch at home...I would probably use the twist lock type 120VAC connector to make it harder to be pulled free when installed...Something similar to this google imageRoy Ken

110 volt outlet for trailer behind class A | Good Sam Community

13 Replies

burningman
Explorer II
Apr 17, 2016
Just use marine "shore power" outlets and cords. They're exactly what you're looking for.
Dusty_R
Explorer
Apr 09, 2016
Why not charge them like travel trailers do, from the tow vehicle when driving ?
time2roll
Nomad
Apr 09, 2016
I would use some type of grip if using while running down the road.

http://www.stayonline.com/support-cord-grips.aspx#safety
DrewE
Explorer II
Apr 09, 2016
TNGW1500SE wrote:

I'm not sure how often I'll use it going down the road. More than likely it will just nice to have the option if I wanted to and get rid of the 2nd cord I have to plug in at the campground. It will be switched inside the RV so it will not be live anytime the generator is running. If it's done right, I don't see it being anymore dangerous than any 110 would be. That's why I want it waterproof and I'll make sure there's no way it could ever drag.

You should also think about transfer switching in the trailer so that you don't have a live male cord or plug when the trailer is connected conventionally to shore power. Likewise, don't use a male-to-male cable to attach the trailer and the RV. There should be no physical way for things to be configured such that there's ever an exposed live male plug anywhere in the system, and such that the RV electrical system cannot get back-fed when plugging in the trailer. (If it could be back-fed, then plugging in the trailer while the RV is live could lead to some very interesting and expensive experiences, for instance.)
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Apr 09, 2016
westend wrote:
If you are just doing this to charge batteries in the towed-behind, a more elegant solution might be to use the 12V system of the coach to do it.

An alternative is solar.

Having a hot 120V wire between moving vehicles is a risky business. 20 amps at 120V is significant power, enough to start a fire or cause some damage. I wouldn't do it.

I'm not sure how often I'll use it going down the road. More than likely it will just nice to have the option if I wanted to and get rid of the 2nd cord I have to plug in at the campground. It will be switched inside the RV so it will not be live anytime the generator is running. If it's done right, I don't see it being anymore dangerous than any 110 would be. That's why I want it waterproof and I'll make sure there's no way it could ever drag.
westend
Explorer
Apr 08, 2016
If you are just doing this to charge batteries in the towed-behind, a more elegant solution might be to use the 12V system of the coach to do it.

An alternative is solar.

Having a hot 120V wire between moving vehicles is a risky business. 20 amps at 120V is significant power, enough to start a fire or cause some damage. I wouldn't do it.
GordonThree
Explorer
Apr 08, 2016
A marine grade (boating) connector and outlet will be water resistant while connected or disconnected (assuming a spring loaded closure). There are also water-proof when closed bulkhead connections (boating). The cover screws over the outlet and forms a compression seal with the outlet... they close more than the kind that simply snap closed.

Clicky
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Apr 08, 2016
RoyB wrote:
You could easily mount an outside weathertight 120VAC connector with lid as well on your RV unit... Just like on your porch at home...

I would probably use the twist lock type 120VAC connector to make it harder to be pulled free when installed...

Something similar to this google image

Roy Ken

I looked at those but it doesn't look waterproof when the cord is attached.
RoyB
Explorer II
Apr 08, 2016
You could easily mount an outside weathertight 120VAC connector with lid as well on your RV unit... Just like on your porch at home...

I would probably use the twist lock type 120VAC connector to make it harder to be pulled free when installed...

Something similar to this google image

Roy Ken
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Apr 08, 2016
SoundGuy wrote:
TNGW1500SE wrote:
I have a good idea of how to get 20 amps of power to the trailer hitch area but I'm having trouble finding a waterproof outlet that I could plug into that really seals and has a cap when not in use.

I'm not sure I'd want 120 vac on a cable hanging between vehicles while towing down the highway but that said the connectors you're looking for are Leviton Wetguard connectors. I use 15 amp versions myself that I bought at our local Home Depot but included in the Leviton lineup are heavier 30 amp versions you'd probably have to source them from a supplier that deals with tradesmen and contractors.

That's it! Thanks!