Add a remote switch for an inverter?

OP update.

So I finished the project this weekend. I thought about taking pictures or video of the project, but ultimately didn't bother. I'm such a lousy solderer anyway that I wouldn't want my work documented! But I basically did exactly as the video posted earlier in this thread for adding a wireless switch showed, but I used a regular wired connection to a standard rocker switch. I opened up both my inverters and connected wires from back of the existing on/off switches and ran that wire out of holes in the inverter housings. I cut those wires a few inches after they exited the inverters and spliced in a quick connector. I did this so that I could disconnect this wiring if the inverters need to come out of the trailer, and so I could hook a single remote switch up to either inverter. I originally thought I would wire up a switch for each inverter but decided that didn't make much sense since I can only plug the shore power cable into one inverter at a time anyway so there isn't a need to be able to operate them each independently. The remote switch is installed on the trailer interior and wired to the inverter location with the other side of the wiring quick connector at its end. I wired up the ground wire of the remote switch so that its LED comes on when it is activated. So each inverter can be controlled by either its original switch or the remote switch when it is connected to it. I'm proud, I think this is a pretty slick mod and will allow me to easily switch my inverter off from inside.

mkirsch wrote:
You're worried about the parasitic draw of a control module for a wireless remote, but you don't seem to be at all concerned about the parasitic draw of the inverters when powered off?

In either case the draw is "minimal" but there is still a draw.

Check your individual inverters. This statement is not universally true. When my inverter is switched off either by the switch on the inverter or the remote switch there is zero draw by the inverter even though it remains hard wired to the 12-volt supply.

mkirsch wrote:
You're worried about the parasitic draw of a control module for a wireless remote, but you don't seem to be at all concerned about the parasitic draw of the inverters when powered off?

In either case the draw is "minimal" but there is still a draw.

Control module draw is in addition to the draw of the inverter when powered off. If it can be avoided, I'll avoid it. Plus I have switches laying around. I'd have to buy the wireless remote setup.

You're right though, if I'm fretting about parasitic draws I should be worrying about having the inverters hooked to the batteries full time. I guess that since they've been installed for a few years that way, that draw is forgotten about and just part of normal operations now. :)

You're worried about the parasitic draw of a control module for a wireless remote, but you don't seem to be at all concerned about the parasitic draw of the inverters when powered off?

In either case the draw is "minimal" but there is still a draw.

OP update.
So this weekend I decided to do some tinkering. I wired up a 12V switch in parallel with the existing switch on the 1500 watt inverter, just like the video shows for wiring up the wireless control module except I just used the regular switch instead and no power input necessary for the switch. I didn't even have to solder, the connection used male/female connectors and I just made a piggy-pack connector to hook up both switches. It works perfect, either switch can turn the inverter on and off. I haven't "installed" the new remote switch yet, it was more a proof of concept job. I'll probably do a switch for each inverter and install the switches so they are .

lc0338 wrote:

smkettner wrote:
So get a wireless remote to connect to the extended switch.
May need to drive a relay. Easy as a transfer switch.

http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Wireless-Controller-Electronics-Power

Or shop similar

If wireless there would not be a need to "extend the swith" in the first place or am i missing something?

The devise does not have a finger to depress the existing switch or move to the correct position. The wire needs to come out of the inverter. The switch is the device or a relay controlled by the device. The extension could be less than 6".

Sorry I forgot to attach the link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoeU5iJnbwY

lc0338 wrote:

smkettner wrote:
So get a wireless remote to connect to the extended switch.
May need to drive a relay. Easy as a transfer switch.

http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Wireless-Controller-Electronics-Power

Or shop similar

If wireless there would not be a need to "extend the swith" in the first place or am i missing something?

I agree, if I went with wireless like the video demonstrates how to do then there would be no purpose to extending the switch.

While wireless would certainly be slick, I don't know if I like the idea of yet another parasitic draw on the batteries for powering the control module. Sort of goes against the boondockery mentality. But I do have spare 12V switches, maybe I'll just use one of those for a remote parallel switch rather than a wireless one?

smkettner wrote:
So get a wireless remote to connect to the extended switch.
May need to drive a relay. Easy as a transfer switch.

http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Wireless-Controller-Electronics-Power

Or shop similar

If wireless there would not be a need to "extend the swith" in the first place or am i missing something?

So get a wireless remote to connect to the extended switch.
May need to drive a relay. Easy as a transfer switch.

http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Wireless-Controller-Electronics-Power

Or shop similar