Hi,
When you encounter a overheating RV, the first thing to think about is a new thermostat. If the old one is only opening about 40%, then it can cause overheating, and for about $15 can be replaced.
Second thing is spray on some simple green, then hose off with a garden hose. If the water it really dirty, it can be the source of your troubles, dirt build up can lessen the radiator's ability to get rid of heat by 5% to 15%. So a clean radiator can cool off about 5% cooler than a slightly dirty one, 15% better than if it was really clogged with dirt deep into the coils.
The main fan will move air about 1,500 - 2,000 CFM at the pressure drop through the radiator and condencer while at 2,000 RPM while the clutch is not engauged. WHen the air going out of the radiator across the water pump is over 150F, then the fan clutch should go into direct speed mode, or the same as the input RPM, a slight overdrive above the engine RPM. At this point, 2,000 engine RPM whould bring through around 6,000 CFM.
Also recall that the radiator has about 4 square feet, and at 60 MPH, the motorhome is moving forward at about 100 feet per second, or 5,300 feet per minute. So this is 5,300 X 4 square feet per minute, or about 21,200 CFM if there was not anything in the way to restrict the airflow, yet the radiator, condenser, and other things in the way help prevent that much air from going through the radiator.
Some say that a 3,000 CFM fan will restrict the air more than enhance it. Well if you are getting 21,200 CFM at natural flow, it might be true. Yet once parked, it would be REALLY handy to turn on that fan, and blow some air through the radiator, across the engine, and cool both quickly. I have found that on a 90F day, shutting off the engine, the floor will warm up a long way, so on the second day of camping, the floor is much cooler in my case. That fan will assist in cooling the RV a lot. While parking, or running less than 10 MPH, then the fan will enhance airflow. Yet at 60 MPH, the air going into the radiator will be more than adaquate to cool the radiator IF it is clean.
Also a thermostat that only opens 40% will cause overheating in a RV while climbing. No increase in airflow will reduce the engine temperature if the thermostat is not replaced.
I had a GMC motorhome with a 2 core undersized radiator. I ende up installing a very oversized transmission cooler, so that it cools all the transmission fluid, before going into the radiator, then to the factory cooler, then back to the transmission. Before modifications, I would run 235F trans temp all the time - even on flat ground on a 90F day, and afterwords, the radiator was slightly cooler, while the transmission was between 190 and 200 unless I was climbing a mountain, where it might reach 210 for a short time.
I know another RV.net member who changed to replace his radiator tank transmission cooler with three extra large heavy duty transmission to air coolers, only to find out that the factory thermostat was not opening all the way, and had to be replaced. This after removing the radiator, and cleaning it.
Fred.