I was wondering if anyone has converted their factory installed LP furnace to the CheapHeat system. Seems like a very practical system when connected to shore power. No worrying about running out of gas and no hassling with multiple small electric space heaters. Wondering if it heats the coach as well as when using gas. Tim

It doesn't put out as much BTU's so it may have a hard time if it's very cold. The worst part was the price. They were close to $1k and you can have the same effect by using 2 or 3 space heaters.But it would sure be one of those nice to have things.

It's a 1500 watt heater same as small portable but way over priced.You can buy a heck of alot of propane for what they want for their unit.

Any idea how many WATTS this CHEAPHEAT electric heater core draws from 120VAC. Can't seem to find a simple spec sheet on the CHEAPHEAT unit. About all I found spec wise was it will work with a 30AMP and 50AMP trailer setup. I didn't look very hard for additional info - only the web site for CHEAPHEAT.Although this may be a good thing when connected to shore power I would have to know what was all involved when camping off the power grid to get my interest... It would be hard for me to even run a LOWES 1500WATT Electric heater from an INVERTER for a long period of time running off my batteries in the woods... I think I have read a standard 1500WATT Electric heater produces 5100 BTUs of heat.The CHEAPHEAT unit would have to produce alot more BTUs to even come close to heating up a big trailer.Roy Ken

Might work in south Texas or Florida.

Hi,They have several models. The web site does list the output in watts, but it is a bit hard to find. The biggest flaw is that you can not use them to assist the propane furnace. It is either 100% electric or 100% propane and there is no "fail over" to propane heating if the power goes off.harold1946 has installed several systems, so you may wish to write him. It is an odd device for someone who boondocks to have, as the only way to power it when doing so is to run a large generator.The 30 amp version is not too useful in my climate, but the 50 amp can handle pretty much 100% of the heating needs of an RV.Some folks have opted for permanently installed base board heaters. Those can be used on a limited basis with even a 15 amp shore power source.All in all, a nice system if you have 50 amps to work with (except for the lack of fail over), but on the pricey side (as are many things in the RV world). I heat nearly 100% electrically, but not with the "Cheap Heat" system.

CheapHeat furnace conversion | Good Sam Community

76 Replies

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nov 24, 2013
Hi,

Do you happen to remember what brand of laminate you used? Who did the work for you? Is it 120 volt or 12 volt? Thanks in advance.

John & Angela wrote:
under floor (laminate) electric heat
2-MTnesters
Explorer
Nov 24, 2013
Thanks everyone for your replies and thank you very much harold1946 for your input. Very helpful information. It sounds like this system would do very well for what I would need. One more question for Harold, what is require as far as the electrical part of the installation, not sure how I would tie into the existing electrical system. Thanks in advance. John & Angela also great questions, wouldn't have thought of asking them myself. Tim
harold1946
Explorer
Nov 24, 2013
John & Angela wrote:
harold1946 wrote:
Most of the time I run on low speed, much quieter. When we are in temperatures below freezing I switch to high to help move more heated air through the holding tank area. Dont know if its necessary but I would rather be on the safe side.

Going to get technical on you Harold.

1. Do you know if they reduce the voltage to run it slower or do they use some sort of PWM motor speed control to slow it down.
It is done by switching to lower voltage in the control panel.

2. Give me an idea of your average run time on a colder day. My mind is thinking it would be more desirable to have it run longer or continually as it would become a low back ground noise. I would think the furnace motor would be up to the task but if they simply use lower voltage (say 6 volts) to run the motor how does the motor hold up under this kind of service. I'm thinking as long as its no where near stalling it wouldn't matter.
Today the high was 56F, with the thermostat set at 70F. The furnace would turn on about once every hour and run about 10 minutes, running on low. This is our fourth winter with the system and no motor issues.

Comments??

Thanks again.
John___Angela
Explorer
Nov 24, 2013
harold1946 wrote:
Most of the time I run on low speed, much quieter. When we are in temperatures below freezing I switch to high to help move more heated air through the holding tank area. Dont know if its necessary but I would rather be on the safe side.

Going to get technical on you Harold.

1. Do you know if they reduce the voltage to run it slower or do they use some sort of PWM motor speed control to slow it down.

2. Give me an idea of your average run time on a colder day. My mind is thinking it would be more desirable to have it run longer or continually as it would become a low back ground noise. I would think the furnace motor would be up to the task but if they simply use lower voltage (say 6 volts) to run the motor how does the motor hold up under this kind of service. I'm thinking as long as its no where near stalling it wouldn't matter.

Comments??

Thanks again.
harold1946
Explorer
Nov 24, 2013
Most of the time I run on low speed, much quieter. When we are in temperatures below freezing I switch to high to help move more heated air through the holding tank area. Dont know if its necessary but I would rather be on the safe side.
John___Angela
Explorer
Nov 24, 2013
We have had a chance to talk in person to two couples who have spent the money for the cheap heat and both are very happy with their systems. One did it himself and said it was a full day job plus a little bit. Both are full timers (I think). We considered it at one time but went with low wattage(300 to 500 watt) multi point baseboard heat and under floor (laminate) electric heat instead. I still like the concept of the cheap heat though, especially the ability to run the fans at slow speed which makes for nice even quiet heat. Still haven't had a chance to see that feature in action yet but hear it works great. I would like to hear from Harold on that feature. Noise, effectiveness etc. In my opinion I think it would be a nice alternative and considerably lower maintenance alternative to any of the hydronic systyms.

Thanks in advance Harold.
harold1946
Explorer
Nov 24, 2013
2-MTnesters wrote:
I was wondering if anyone has converted their factory installed LP furnace to the CheapHeat system. Seems like a very practical system when connected to shore power. No worrying about running out of gas and no hassling with multiple small electric space heaters. Wondering if it heats the coach as well as when using gas. Tim

I installed the system four years ago and am pleased with it. We have been in temperatures down to 14F and had no problem maintaining 70F.
Our motorhome has ducted heat and ducts to the holding tanks and we have had no issues with freezing.
There is probably a point at which it would not be adequate and the LP would be needed, but we have not been in that situation yet.
We are fulltimers and 90% of the time we are off the grid, so I installed an AGS (automatic generator start) system that wiil start and stop the genny as power is needed, controled by the thermostat. If by chance we are on shore power and there is a power failure the AGS will take over.
I would certainly not expect it to maintain as well as my 35,000 BTU LP furnace at below zero temperatures.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Nov 23, 2013
Hi Retired,

Actually the 30 amp DH-18 does 1920 watts or 6551 btu.

The 50 amp DH-37 does double that at 3840 watts or 13102 btu

The 50 amp DH-50 does 5040 watts or 17197 btu

This assumes 120 volt power with no voltage drop.

You are right about the costs though.

Retired JSO wrote:
Your furnace will be close to 30-35,000 BTU.
I believe, Cheap Heat is about the same as the overpriced 120 volt electric heaters, so called produced by Amish Craftsman, to heat an entire home. The most heat they can supply is just over 5000 BTU. The same amount of heat a $39 Walmart space heater can supply. No where close to 30,000 BTU.
slarsen
Explorer
Nov 23, 2013
The most recent Trailer Life magazine features the installation. Just skimmed it, as it doesn't interest me. Looks like an all day installation. I believe there are three models with different amp loads, one of which I believe was for 30 amp, and the other two for 50 amp.

I think I can deal with portable heaters for many, many years before I will have invested as much effort as installing one of these. And then there is the cost . . . Plus, if you use portable units, you can 'stage' things such that the electric units carry most of the load, and the furnace kicks in only when the temp drops a couple degrees below where the electric units poop out. And even then, the electric units will continue to contribute to the heating needs. And maybe help keep the heat more even from end to end of the trailer, as the wind, etc has its effect on the trailer.
Retired_JSO
Explorer
Nov 23, 2013
Your furnace will be close to 30-35,000 BTU.
I believe, Cheap Heat is about the same as the overpriced 120 volt electric heaters, so called produced by Amish Craftsman, to heat an entire home. The most heat they can supply is just over 5000 BTU. The same amount of heat a $39 Walmart space heater can supply. No where close to 30,000 BTU.

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CheapHeat furnace conversion

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