kitchen countertop removal

I don't understand, why you do not remove everything first, look very carefully before you ask removal questions? Each rig is a little different.

My stove and sink rest on top of the formica/laminate as a drop in. Besides, the laminate is only 1/8th(est) of a inch thick. Beats removing all the plywood and other wood. Every project will necessitate some adjustments.

I cut the original top back to the cabinet so that it would not visible. Then glued the new top on it.

myredracer wrote:

scotty46 wrote:
If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

Wouldn't that not work because of the existing stove opening? Seems to me raising the height of the top would leave a gap between the bottom of stove and cabinet.

Could perhaps fill in the gap with matching wood (if available) but if his counter can be easily pulled out (which it now seems) that's probably the easier way to go.

On my motorhome, there's a gap there under the oven with the factory countertops. A bigger gap might be an improvement, as it would be easier to scare off the dust bunnies that like to frolic there where the vacuum wand can't bother them very much.

scotty46 wrote:
If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

Most laminate countertops in RVs are edged with vinyl molding that is T-shaped and fits in a groove on the edge of the substrate. If you add a layer of laminate, the molding doesn't cover the edge of the laminate. Been there, done that. It looked OK, but I would have preferred to have the edge of the laminate covered. OTOH, if you are going to self-edge the laminate, there's no reason not to go over the top of the old laminate.

scotty46 wrote:
If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

Wouldn't that not work because of the existing stove opening? Seems to me raising the height of the top would leave a gap between the bottom of stove and cabinet.

Could perhaps fill in the gap with matching wood (if available) but if his counter can be easily pulled out (which it now seems) that's probably the easier way to go.

I've seen a granit type material that is thinner than normal and made to be glued over laminate. The edge is attached to you don't see any of the old top unless you are looking up from the floor.

If properly prepared, formica/laminate can be glued right on top of another stable formica/laminate surface. I have done it before with good results. No need to tear up the cabinet tops.

I am having a solid surface countertop company come to the mh and make a template. For the removal of the existing, my biggest concern is that the particle board is screwed down to the tops of the cabinetry first and then the laminate glued in place. So, I pulled out some drawers and took off a cabinet door to really look inside to see how it was constructed. There are no real cabinets, only frames w/ drawers and a door along the front. Inside the space is all open. Hard to explain. But I did see cleats all around the inside perimeter with screws going into the top from the bottom and screws going into the frames from the back. All the screws should be fairly easy to remove once I pull the stove and sink. Thanks for the suggestions and insight

rekoj71 wrote:
This^^, but my experience says the counter from manufacturers is usually cheaper particle board verses the better MDF. Either way removal is the same. I installed counters for years and some got glued down but most were just screwed down, but after the laminate had been pre-applied. I wouldn't be surprised though if an RV top was Glued and Screwed.

Edit: if glued, a crowbar or wrecking bar can pry up the countertop from the cabinet but be sure to pry overtop of the vertical frame pieces and not on the cross bars that go over drawers or cabinet openings. They could be popped out of alignment. Best would also be to do this from inside the cabinet as to not ruin the outer finish.

Good luck.

I will go 3X to this as, unlike a house they have the complete counter top pre-made and screwed in from the underside.