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Gypsy62's avatar
Gypsy62
Explorer
Jan 29, 2016

Soundproofing windows, hanging art...

Newbie, 1st post.
Long-winded, but integrates two topics.

I bought a '98 37' Allegro bus (cat/allison), and was quickly shocked by the high level of bidirectional noise through the stock windows.
I have a background in professional acoustical design and sound engineering, so assessed possible quieting options.
Shy of making extensive soundproofing mods to the interior walls themselves, the thin glass is the weakest link for noise.
The most effective -and expensive- method would be to replace the glass with thicker, possibly laminated, panes. Any glass thicker than about 3/8" would be quieter than the surrounding walls, overkill. I was phone-quoted $300/per to replace the two rear bedroom windows with 1/4" glass (if I performed the window-frame r&r). However, I suspect that estimate would've jumped the moment the shop held the frames in-hand.

I also have an extensive art collection, and reflected how I'd really like to enjoy their company on the road as well. Given the limited open interior wall surfaces, I realized that the square-footage of the windows could be multi-purposed, simultaneously providing improved soundproofing and "gallery" surfaces.
The pics illustrate my solution: a vertical-sliding panel made of 3/8 decorative ply laminated with 1/2" celotex SDB (sound deadening board). Total material costs <200 sufficient for three window conversions. Skilied-labor intensive, as all worthy ends are.

I also improvised an "X" picture hanging system which permits artwork to be both roadworthy and "hot-swappable", gallery style. Virtually any piece can be swapped with any other hanging location, thanks to the matching geometry of the "X" mounting system.
50lb test fishing line. Eyehooks for the lower mounts, c-hooks for the uppers (see pics). The line is loop-threaded through the lower eyes, while the upper c-hooks can be rotated 180deg. to allow slipping-on the upper line-loop, then rotated upward to secure/tension the line.
Serviceably ingenius, I must say (lol).
I'm certain there's better ways to achieve the two objectives of soundproofing and art-surfaces, but that's the best my design hamsters could manage spinning in my cerebellum. Improvements most welcome.
(I rejected the option of a velcro X as both unsightly and weaker. Miles shall reveal how well the nearly invisible 50lb filament endures...)

PS- I CAN'T FIND THE TAB FOR UPLOADING PICS, BUT WILL UPDATE WHEN I HAVE TIME.
  • My "quick reply" was vaporized, including URL link to pics. Sally forth:



    A pita to repeat web-tossed text, so briefly:
    The spooled bungee line was great for retaining dvd/CD's in my slide-out contoured shelving, but far too flexible for the over-slider shelves. Eventually swap for wire rope.
    For max strength the soffited angle brackets are mounted using toggle bolts. When using toggles in an rv it's crucial to accurately calculate the bolt length; you only have 11/4" of internal wall space.
    Mini hinge-holes had to be drilled wider for longer screws ahd so the screw-heads would close flush.
    The boards are laid across the back of artwork-mounted eyebolts to exhibit how the replicated X geometry permits any piece to be hung in any location using the existing filament.
    One pic shows 1/2"SDB laminated to 5/16ths decorative ply for sliders.
  • Take a look at this thread, stuck at the top of this forum for help on posting pictures here. It is really very simple.
    1. Go to this site. Click blue "or Select" button.

    2. Upload your picture from your computer to the site. That will generate a URL and show your picture in a reduced size.

    3. Copy/paste that resulting URL directly into you post. Do not add anything to the URL or delete anything.

    4. Your picture will now appear in your post, properly sized for the forums. :)

    It is as simple as that! Upload, copy, paste. :)
    Barney
  • Final notes:
    During the slider design phase I realized that the area above the top "mantle" was wasted, so integrated a shelf above the bedroom assemblies. While the "marine-rail" style bungee line was ideal for retaining the DVD/CD's in the custom shelving I built into the slide-out's horseshoe, it is way too flexible for the sliders top shelf. I'll eventually replace it with plastic-coated wire rope.

    I also came up with a "suspension solution" to remedy the mold issue under the memory foam mattress that came with rig (premium quality, don't want to toss it). I'll post as separate topic soon.

    I'm currently troubleshooting my toad wiring, an '05 jeep liberty CRD behind a '98 37' Allegro Bus; any thread suggestions greatly appreciated!
  • The eyebolt and C-hook pics demonstrate how you can simply thread a pre-loop through the lower eyebolts and then run the line through that loop, pull it snug, and then tension the line diagonally to the upper opposite C-hook and make a snug loop at the top. This way, you can simply rotate the C-hook 180deg, slide the loop off, gently lower the artwork while threading the line through the artworks eyebolts to remove. The filament will still be secured to the walls lower eyebolts, preventing line loss/snafu aggravation. If the line is properly snug, it's not always a breeze re-mounting the art, but with focus, patience and practice you get the hang of the loop-and-rotate with the upper C-hooks.
    Better ideas always welcome.
  • Thanks, downtheroad!
    Not sure where precisely the pics are floating in the interweb ethers but much obliged!

    If folks can view them, a few notes:
    After doing the largest salon window first, I realized that given all of the untreatable forward window area it was futile to hassle with soundproofing additional windows other than the two bedroom windows.
    Regarding comments, the panels are dimensioned so that when lowered the entire windows are accessible. Given that the aft bed windows are also critical emergency exits this was mandatory. A spacer was also required to set the sliders to allow adequate clearance from the emergency handles.
    Re comments about condensation, these sliders are not that close the glass; check yours, but I suspect that virtually all rv window frames are exterior-flush, providing an inset from the plane of the interior wall.
    Those of you who are able and willing to suffer the expense, I strongly suggest you consider having a glass shop replace your bedroom windows with thicker glass. It will make a HUGE difference in noise into (and out of :) ) your boudoir. Ideally, approximately 1/8"x2 dual laminated panes (or alternatively 1/4" single pane). You will be truly shocked by the sonic transformation.
    Re pics, notice how the X geometry is replicated on all artwork-mounted eyebolts, regardless of comparative dimensions. Subsequently, they all 'settle' onto the X filament identically, easily permitting straightening. The 'universal' angle was deduced by taking the tallest vs widest piece and establishing a median.
    Posting relevant photos shortly.
  • Welcome to the forum. When you mentioned the 'high level of bidirectional noise', I assumed you had a background in acoustics.
    Most of would just say it's too loud. :)

    I agree with the bear ll, I would not hang art on the Windows as it could get wet.
    I use suction cups with hooks attached to hang insulation on the windows. They work well for that purpose.
    They would support the weight of the art but, probably not while driving. You could lay the art on the bed while in motion.

    Enjoy your travels.
  • I can't wait to see the photos.

    I was going to suggest getting a sound dampening fabric to make blinds, and then "print" the artwork to the fabric.

    As the panels are "sliding", you won't lose the ability to enjoy the windows and you can easily air out any moisture, etc.
  • Windows some times collect moisture from condensation I would be worried it might damage the art.
  • Don't you want to look out the windows as you travel around or are you parking most of the time.

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