where to put volt/amp meter in circuit

I see this item is available on EBAY with SELLER elite.element

Perhaps you might want to contact them for additional info on how to connect the unit up... The write-up says it has a built-in SHUNT so probably just connects between the converter and battery bank like shown in their simple application. Perhaps the INPUT goes to BATTERY Connection and OUTPUT goes to Converter connection...

This would not be wise in my battery connections where I deal with up to 60AMPS or so of DC Current. My 1500WATT INVERTER is fused at 175AMPS DC current

Not real sure what you have here.... May be too small values to use in your RV setup.

DCM 9030C

Just my thoughts
Roy Ken

RoyB wrote:
I see this item is available on EBAY with SELLER elite.element

Perhaps you might want to contact them for additional info on how to connect the unit up... The write-up says it has a built-in SHUNT so probably just connects between the converter and battery bank like shown in their simple application. Perhaps the INPUT goes to BATTERY Connection and OUTPUT goes to Converter connection...

This would not be wise in my battery connections where I deal with up to 60AMPS or so of DC Current. My 1500WATT INVERTER is fused at 175AMPS DC current

Not real sure what you have here.... May be too small values to use in your RV setup.

DCM 9030C

Just my thoughts
Roy Ken

thanks Roy. I'm just in a small pop up. No more than 20A if everything was running...not even that

My guess would be disconnect the RED WIRE line coming to the converter from the battery and connect it to the input + as shown in the below ebay diagram for the DCN 9030C unit. The - connection would go to frame ground.

Then connect a new short lead from + OUTPUT terminals to the converter terminal that used to connect to the battery POSITIVE terminal. The - lead goes to frame ground again.


This DCM9030C meter has to go in series between the converter and the battery. This means your total current load goes thru the meter panel which is only rated for 30AMPS I guess it is...

When your converter is producing charge current it is already connected up like the CHARGING diagram shows on ebay so I assume it work just fine with no changes anywhere.

To me that is alot of current to be running through those 10-32 screw heads on that terminal board??? Must be OK as that is the way the DCM9030C simple diagram shows from the ebay page.

I would make sure there is an 30AMP IN-LINE FUSE right next to the battery terminal. I'm pretty sure your battery is capable of producing more that 30AMPS in the case of a short circuit. It should have this in-line fuse there already just check and make sure.

I would just ignore the other battery leads that will also be connected to the same positive battery terminal. One is for emergency brakes and another maybe for your slide I see you have. Those other Positive + battey leads will just not be monitored...

This is pure guessing hehe... If it blows up on you I know nothing as Sergeant Schultz says on METV Hogans Hero's

I would run all of this by the ebay seller and gets his comments back...

Roy Ken

Let me know if it works - I like the meter readout and the price is right. I might try it on my 200A setup in my OFF-ROAD POPUP for monitoring 4 batteries...

I see the ebay seller has several different current meter models for sale...

Roy Ken

RoyB wrote:
My guess would be disconnect the RED WIRE line coming to the converter from the battery and connect it to the input + as shown in the below ebay diagram for the DCN 9030C unit. The - connection would go to frame ground.

Then connect a new short lead from + OUTPUT terminals to the converter terminal that used to connect to the battery POSITIVE terminal. The - lead goes to frame ground again.


This DCM9030C meter has to go in series between the converter and the battery. This means your total current load goes thru the meter panel which is only rated for 30AMPS I guess it is...

When your converter is producing charge current it is already connected up like the CHARGING diagram shows on ebay so I assume it work just fine with no changes anywhere.

To me that is alot of current to be running through those 10-32 screw heads on that terminal board??? Must be OK as that is the way the DCM9030C simple diagram shows from the ebay page.

I would make sure there is an 30AMP IN-LINE FUSE right next to the battery terminal. I'm pretty sure your battery is capable of producing more that 30AMPS in the case of a short circuit. It should have this in-line fuse there already just check and make sure.

I would just ignore the other battery leads that will also be connected to the same positive battery terminal. One is for emergency brakes and another maybe for your slide I see you have. Those other Positive + battey leads will just not be monitored...

This is pure guessing hehe... If it blows up on you I know nothing as Sergeant Schultz says on METV Hogans Hero's

I would run all of this by the ebay seller and gets his comments back...

Roy Ken

pretty sure what you suggest is how I have it now and it only reads A when shore is connected

RED > + INPUT METER > + OUTPUT METER > CONVERTER
WHITE > - INPUT METER> - OUTPUT METER > CONVERTER

is this what you describe above?

Is there something you are suppose do when you want to monitor DISCHARGING or CHARGING modes.

Perhaps you have to also move the battery load somehow. The battery is connected to all your trailer loads via the 12VDC Distribution panel. The battery should connect to this panel normally at the same point the converter connects to 12VDC Distribution panel. Perhaps the REVERSE POLARITY FUSES BLEW ON YOU. They are the two large 15AMP fuses off to them self on the 12VDC board.

One good check is see if your 12VDC ceiling lights works OK when you are NOT on shore power. We may have interrupted the path from the battery positive lead to the 12VDC Distribution Panel somehow by going thru the new meter. ???

Roy Ken

ALso be sure the battery is connected up properly. It is so easy to reverse the connection. FInd the WORD "NEG" or the symbol "-" on the battery case and make sure the lead from this terminal is going to FRAME GROUND.

If you go the terminals swapped just for a sec the REVERSE POLARITY and IN-LINE fuses (ALL THREE) will blow. Correct the problem first if they are blown otherwise the new fuses will just blow again on you.

Roy Ken

It seems to me that your input would be your battery and the output would be your red wire. This should read the battery voltage and current. So, disconnect the red wire from the battery and connect it to the output +. Connect the battery + terminal to the input +. Connect both - to the frame.

Just my guess.

I was just going by what was listed on the ebay seller's page



Have no idea how this is wired up on the inside of the box... I'm thinking now he blown REVERSE POLARITY fuses as he probably had the battery terminals removed when connecting up.

Roy Ken

Here is a link to an old post you might be interested in.