2012 Cougar High Country pinbox

If you are considering an OEM pinbox and don't need the pivot of the Sidewinder any more, run two Grade-8 bolts up the back to pin it in place. Remove the wedge and raise the Sidewinder in the trailer mount as high as it will go. Not pivoting, won't matter that the arm is above the "wings" of trailer pinbox mount.

This is what I did when moving to my long-bed 3500HD. I did that, along with dropping my Reese R16 hitch to the lowest holes. I'm still a bit nose high but pressures and temperatures of front vs back tires (axles) remain equal. I'd like to get individual wheel weights ... if I could just find those type "plate" scales I see DPS use on the side of the road.

Hope this helps.

I have the Sidewinder and have an F250 CC with the 6' 8" bed like yours. I think you will need to carefully calculate if you still need the Sidewinder so you clear the cab before you go for a new pin box solution. I elected to raise the trailer using the Lippert Correct Track II Kit since it is a fairly low cost option and I could do it myself. It provides about 2" lift plus provides capability to align the trailer. Other option is to change axles to be under the springs if not already configured that way.

Thanks for your replies. I had actually had the Sidewinder moved up 2" and moved it back down when I saw it wouldn't pivot. Didn't think to lock it down instead. The R16 is already in its lowest position. Two of the 4 turret bolts sheared yesterday and the arm is at a machine shop to have them removed. I am on the road and don't have my heavy tools to move the Sidewinder mount up.
Were there any clearance problems, Tom? The arm sticks straight out instead of angling down like the oem.

We have a 2013 Cougar High Country 291rls. The pinbox is a Lippert 1621. Yours was probably the same.

700g wrote:
We have a 2013 Cougar High Country 291rls. The pinbox is a Lippert 1621. Yours was probably the same.

Thanks! That is what I guessed but wanted confirmation. I might get the Moryde replacement for that for only $50 more.

SkiSmuggs wrote:
I am on the road and don't have my heavy tools to move the Sidewinder mount up.
Were there any clearance problems, Tom? The arm sticks straight out instead of angling down like the oem.

When either dropping the arm/turret or moving the entire pinbox, I'd back the truck's tailgate under and use a floor jack, made it all very manageable for my son and I.

As to an angle? The arm of the pinbox has always been parallel to the ground, even after pinning and raising it. At a loss for posting pictures on this forum, I've included hyperlinks to Google Photos where I've got them saved. Hope this helps.

2014 09 Sidewinder Maintenance

2015 05 Hitch Adjustments Fast forward to last two images to see the raised and pinned hitch. In the tightest of turns of if needing to jackknife, the pinbox can touch the bedrails at just short of 90 degrees. I try not to go there!

SkiSmuggs wrote:
Thanks for your replies. I had actually had the Sidewinder moved up 2" and moved it back down when I saw it wouldn't pivot. Didn't think to lock it down instead. The R16 is already in its lowest position. Two of the 4 turret bolts sheared yesterday and the arm is at a machine shop to have them removed. I am on the road and don't have my heavy tools to move the Sidewinder mount up.
Were there any clearance problems, Tom? The arm sticks straight out instead of angling down like the oem.

Can you provide more info on the turret bolts shearing? I am always a bit concerned about those boots given the load on them. Did the shear during re installation or did you find they had sheared sometime during use?
Thanks

Garyl53 wrote:

SkiSmuggs wrote:
Thanks for your replies. I had actually had the Sidewinder moved up 2" and moved it back down when I saw it wouldn't pivot. Didn't think to lock it down instead. The R16 is already in its lowest position. Two of the 4 turret bolts sheared yesterday and the arm is at a machine shop to have them removed. I am on the road and don't have my heavy tools to move the Sidewinder mount up.
Were there any clearance problems, Tom? The arm sticks straight out instead of angling down like the oem.

Can you provide more info on the turret bolts shearing? I am always a bit concerned about those boots given the load on them. Did the shear during re installation or did you find they had sheared sometime during use?
Thanks

I had backed into a site that left the arm at an bad angle to reconnect. If the turret bolts are torqued to 45,the arm can't be moved by hand so I was going to loosen, straighten the arm and restore. But the arm moved easily and I found both rear turret bolts had sheared. This was after 20 days on the road in its 4th season. I removed the arm, took it to a machine shop to remove the stubs and bought 4 new grade 8 bolts that were 1/4" longer as old bolts didn't quite reach bottom thread of nut. I recommend replacing those bolts periodically.

Thanks for the update. I just purchased a 2007 5th wheel with a Sidewinder that has a 3-bolt version which are torqued to 85 ft-lbs according to Cequent, the manufacturer. The gap at the rear of the arm is quite a bit larger than at the front of the arm near the turret so I plan to take the unit apart after a few more weekends just to make sure the bolts, etc. are OK. I think I will take your advice and replace those bolts as well and also inspect and/or replace the turret bushing if needed. After 8 years of use by previous owner it is well past inspection time.

Re-lube the wear plate with white lithium grease. The turret cylinder itself needs wheel bearings grease.