I would like some feedback on the 3/4 payload vs. towing capacity. I know this has probably debated before, however I am new to this forum and new to towing a 5er.From what I have been studying the Ford and Dodge gassers have better payload and the diesel has more towing capacity. Which is more important? From there it is a relatively small price to jump to a 1 ton. If you had to do over what would you do? Any feed back is greatly appreciated.

payload on any truck of the same trim package stays the same. Difference is the diesel engines can weigh 500 to 1K more than a gas truck. Any of the 3/4 tons are going to have kind of anemic payloads. You are just better off going to a 1 ton single rear wheel for the little bit of difference in cash. The other option is to just say to heck with the rating and mod the truck to make it work but that will get the weight police all up in arms Chris

As you pointed out, there is little price difference between a 3/4 and a 1 ton p/u. They don't drive any different. I see no sensible reason to get a 3/4 ton truck. If you plan to drive out west you will soon know why people get a diesel when you are going up a 12 percent grade. The diesel will pull the 5ver up with no trouble, the gasser will bog down and you'll be going up at 35 or 40 mph if you are lucky. Gassers also get awful fuel mileage especially when towing.

Keep it simple....especially for a 5th wheel and for the next one you are going to buy......go with a 350/3500 (any of the big 3).

agesilaus wrote:As you pointed out, there is little price difference between a 3/4 and a 1 ton p/u. They don't drive any different. I see no sensible reason to get a 3/4 ton truck. If you plan to drive out west you will soon know why people get a diesel when you are going up a 12 percent grade. The diesel will pull the 5ver up with no trouble, the gasser will bog down and you'll be going up at 35 or 40 mph if you are lucky. Gassers also get awful fuel mileage especially when towing.X1, another vote for 1 ton /3500 and diesel. In all the mountains in calif. pulling a 35' 5th wheel, I get 14mpg:) I am also partial to the manual 6 speed and the exhaust brake system. I would also suggest you look into installing a replacement fuel tank that is larger than the original. I had a 60 gal. auxiliary tank installed in th exact same location as the original by Transfer Flow in Chico ca. but there are other mfg. as well. It is nice to not have to worry about finding a diesel fuel station and being able to look for the best priced fuel:)

once you understand weight numbers, then matching your future rv to your dream truck becomes pretty simple. If you buy a truck first then stay within the specs. If you fall in love and buy a huge rv...buy a truck that can tow the weight. Pretty simple, but when you do it out of order then the threads go on for days, fights start and threads get closed. Im probably oversimplifying this but personally I feel we all need to educate ourselves before buying rather than learning on the internet from opinions. The manufacturers do a good job of publishing facts about how much they feel their trucks can handle.

3/4 ton payload vs. towing capacity | Good Sam Community

zb39
Explorer
Jan 23, 2017
Congrats on the new truck. ENJOY it!!!!
Kenjack24
Explorer
Jan 23, 2017
Me Again wrote:
Kenjack24 wrote:
My point is if someone is truly worried about having enough truck a drw would be the best option as most 250/350 srw trucks

RAM has taken the rear suspension of the 2500 a different direction than the 3500, they have a two options for the 2500. Coil springs or a rear air system that is not as capable as the one they offer on the 3500's. Chris

Yes you are correct. The 3500 is also available with the air suspension but as "assist" only. I was giving this information more towards the Ford f250/350 as the OP purchased one and that's where the most of my knowledge comes from.
Me_Again
Explorer III
Jan 23, 2017
Kenjack24 wrote:
My point is if someone is truly worried about having enough truck a drw would be the best option as most 250/350 srw trucks

RAM has taken the rear suspension of the 2500 a different direction than the 3500, they have a two options for the 2500. Coil springs or a rear air system that is not as capable as the one they offer on the 3500's. Chris
Coach-man
Explorer
Jan 23, 2017
thomas201 wrote:
Every time the topic pops up I am the one that chimes in and says to get the tool to do the job. Yes Virginia you can drive nails with a pipe wrench, but a hammer is better.

When you drop the 5er, do you play in the mud? No duals for me, can't move through the ruts.

Live in the Northeast? F250 size can park on the street, use the hammer lanes and parkways without the camper.

Duals are less useful in tight places, like parking garages and drive throughs.

To do real mud work the gasser has a lot less junk hanging down.

Some will tell me to get a toy hauler, a dually and bring the 48 Jeep.
Then not go to Jersey to visit the wife's family with the truck.

X2, folks here say "keep it simple, 350/3500 dually" well life is not simple! We have been full timing for a year, and love to see the sights where we travel! Weather, going to Bar Harbor, or Washington DC you WILL have a problem finding and parking a 1 ton dually! My 2500 is not a walk in the park, but I can and do find parking spaces where I want! If all you do is go from RV park to RV park then it is a no brainer, but if you plan on going elsewhere, such as to Walmart to buy groceries then you need to think about your options!
Kenjack24
Explorer
Jan 23, 2017
I realize you have already made a decision on your tow vehicle, but I'd like to throw something into the water. I have done extensive research on fords platform when I purchased my 2013 f250 6.7 powerstroke. A ford srw 250/350 can be set up 100% identicle but have a lower gvwr and a lower payload. My truck is 100% the same as a 350 srw but with a lower payload. It is only for registration purposes of the lower rating. Now if I were to get into a accident and I was exceeding any weight limits in the truck I could be in big trouble (I am not exceeding any weight limits personally). My point is if someone is truly worried about having enough truck a drw would be the best option as most 250/350 srw trucks will have the same components giving them the same abilities. The higher numbers on a 350 srw is just a sticker for insurance, registration, and liability. In most cases. However a light duty 250 can still be had.

As far as the 6.7 powerstroke. It is a great engine and seems to do well. Regeneration will indeed occur more often with high idle time or city driving. You need to drive the truck during the Regen cycle or it could lead to problems if you shut it off and disrupt too many Regeneration cycles. You will lose some power during Regeneration and your fuel milage will go down. However it shouldn't be too large of a concern. Also the 6.7 hates water in the fuel. Make sure to drain the water fuel separator on the fuel filter at least once a month.
Me_Again
Explorer III
Jan 22, 2017
mrw8i wrote:

Once you go diesel powered, you won't go back.

So true.
mrw8i
Explorer
Jan 22, 2017
Izzy211 wrote:
Ok, I took all of the comments and went looking to upgrade my TV. I looked at both Ford and Dodge. They are both very good, however, since I have always owned Fords I decided on a 2016 F350 with a 6.7 PSD. Now I have never owned a diesel. Any help you all could supply would be helpful to me.

My advice:
1 - Don't accidentally put gasoline in the tank - that's an expensive fix
2 - Let it warm up.
3 - Diesel's prefer highway driving over city driving. Regen operations occur while on the highway. It will regen more often if mostly city driving (I think).

Once you go diesel powered, you won't go back.
Izzy211
Explorer
Jan 22, 2017
Ok, I took all of the comments and went looking to upgrade my TV. I looked at both Ford and Dodge. They are both very good, however, since I have always owned Fords I decided on a 2016 F350 with a 6.7 PSD. Now I have never owned a diesel. Any help you all could supply would be helpful to me.
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Jan 20, 2017
op wrote:
From what I have been studying the Ford and Dodge gassers have better payload and the diesel has more towing capacity.

Ford/Ram and GM 3/4 ton trucks have similar 6000-6500 RAWR that will carry all the weight in the bed of a pickup truck so actual payloads in the bed differ very little.

Gas trucks rear axle can weigh about the same as a diesel trucks rear axle as the diesel engine adds very little weight on the rear axle.

Payloads your talking about is a gvwr based payload located on the tire placard. A gvwr payload may need to be spread over the trucks gawrs (front and rear axle).
Example ....one of our members said his 2500 GM 6.0 gasser had a 3640 lb payload sticker. There is no 2500 GM gas or diesel truck that can carry 3640 lbs in the bed without exceeding a 17" OEM tire/OEM wheel or OEM rear spring pack rating.
2500 GM trucks have a 6200 rawr and most newer gen truck can weigh in the 2900-3100 lb range leaving 3100-3300 lb for a max load in the bed.

My point is don't assume all the gvwr based payload numbers can safely be carried in some (not all) trucks bed.
thomas201
Explorer
Jan 20, 2017
Every time the topic pops up I am the one that chimes in and says to get the tool to do the job. Yes Virginia you can drive nails with a pipe wrench, but a hammer is better.

When you drop the 5er, do you play in the mud? No duals for me, can't move through the ruts.

Live in the Northeast? F250 size can park on the street, use the hammer lanes and parkways without the camper.

Duals are less useful in tight places, like parking garages and drive throughs.

To do real mud work the gasser has a lot less junk hanging down.

Some will tell me to get a toy hauler, a dually and bring the 48 Jeep.
Then not go to Jersey to visit the wife's family with the truck.