I've had a pop-up and bunkhouse TT in years past. Thought we were going to get a couples camper and pull with our '14 f150. After discussing with the kids (23,20 and 16) they want to continue camping, so now thinking a bunkhouse, really want a walk in shower and don't want to pull a 30+' TT, thinking we will go with a 5th wheel bunk. My plan will be to use our other truck ('02 Silverado 2500HD, EC, 6.5 bed, 4x4, 6.0 gas and 4.1 gears) for a couple of years until we get a new TV. Plan to pull 100-200 miles on mostly flat land. Also, only plan to carry 1-2 other people in the truck (others will meet there, so 500# of people payload)First Question, Best I can figure is max towing will be around 10K. Payload around 3K. Sound about right? Thinking look for something under 9000#. That should keep the pin weight low enough?Second question, my truck previously had a fifth wheel from the previous owner. I know very little about hitches, but there are 4 threaded holes over my rear axle where it attached. They form about a 2.5' square. How much of the hitch do I have and what do I need to look for in hitches.ThanksJoe

Depending on configuration, you will be really lucky to have 2000 pounds of real world payload. The old 2500s just had no capacity. Even at 2000 capacity that means your limited to a fifth wheel around 10,000 loaded. Thats going to get you a pretty small unit unless you go for one of the "Ultralite" fivers.As for hitch? Go buy a complete setup. Unless you know what the PO was using its unlikely your current setip will match anyhow.

If you are going to use a short bed truck, you may want to consider a sliding hitch. When I got my 5th wheel, I already had in the budget some Air Bags for my 2010 F-250. Thankfully I did not need them. My Base weight is #9700 with a hitch weight of #1800. If you believe the brochure.

packpe89 wrote:....thinking we will go with a 5th wheel bunk. My plan will be to use our other truck ('02 Silverado 2500HD, EC, 6.5 bed, 4x4, 6.0 gas and 4.1 gears) for a couple of years until we get a new TV....First Question, Best I can figure is max towing will be around 10K. Payload around 3K. Sound about right? Thinking look for something under 9000#. That should keep the pin weight low enough?Second question, my truck previously had a fifth wheel from the previous owner. I know very little about hitches, but there are 4 threaded holes over my rear axle where it attached. They form about a 2.5' square. How much of the hitch do I have and what do I need to look for in hitches.ThanksJoeMy '04 2500HD (crew cab, 2WD) weighed 6300lbs with 2 adults and a full tank of fuel. Yours with 4X4 you can probably expect about 6,500lbs or a little less. The truck has a GVWR of 9,200lbs and a RAWR of 6,084lbs. The Axle itself is rated for 10,000lbs but the OEM tires are rated for 3,042lbs each.Realistically to stay within the sticker values you have 2,700lbs of payload to use. If you stay within 10,000lbs on the 5er you're probably going to be okay.Sounds like the previous owner had hitch rails in the bed. If you can post a picture it would help ID exactly what you have. For generic rails, I'd browse Craigslist or FB marketplace and find someone selling a rail hit and hitch. Since you plan to upgrade trucks I wouldn't put a lot of $$ into this setup. If you go new enough on the truck you might get one that has the newer puck system at which point the hitch you buy now won't be usable. They type of hitch you get will depend on the 5er you buy. You can get away with a non-sliding hitch if the 5er corners are radiused, but if not you'll have to get a slider.I'll also issue my normal warning for GM trucks of that era.....check your brake lines. They were notorious for corroding and rupturing. That's a really bad thing if you're towing 10,000lbs behind you!!!!!!KJ

It sounds like you are close in your numbers. If you stay under your RAWR/tiremax rating, it should work for you. On flat ground, shorter distance, the older 6.0, with 4-speed 4.10 gears, should handle 10K towing. You should have 3K left for hitch/pin weight on your rear axle and tires.Not sure what you are describing with the 4 bolt holes being a 2.5' square. If it was a standard type rail setup previously installed, and still has the brackets under the bed, you may be able to go from there. Otherwise, best to start completely over with under bed brackets, that fit standard rails.Jerry

Check on your data plate for the cargo capacity and GVWR. Remember with a 5er it is the carrying capacity not the tow capacity of the truck that matters. You will probably be fine with a 10,000lb fully loaded 5er, which means around a 8,000lb empty unit. Finding one to accommodate 5 adults may be the issue, since I am guessing the kids do not want to share a bed.The hitch holes as you describe them sounds about standard for spacing, but are likely for a particular brand of hitch rail. Basically, there are two rails that attach cross ways in the bed, via the holes you have, to brackets that are attached to the truck frame under the bed. A good hitch installer can probably figure out what you had and with the holes and IF the brackets are still in place you can save some money on the install or some work if you DIY. From a cost benefit point of view I think you will be better off with a Travel Trailer and a pop up trailer. Get the kids to tow the pop-up when they want to meet you.

A couple of questions for first 5th wheel. | Good Sam Community

valhalla360
Navigator
Dec 19, 2017
Run the actual numbers off the door plate but yeah, you are probably fine up to around 10k, since you said flat land and will be upgrading before big trips.

Think long and hard about the kid issue. At the ages, you list, a girlfriend/boyfriend and suddenly, they lose interest. Knowing nothing about your family, I would be shocked if you had all 3 traveling with you for even 3 yrs (16yr old might be good for 4-5yrs). Get a couples layout and a nice air mattress to sleep on the floor or a nice tent they can set up adjacent. At that age, they can sleep anywhere.

Also a lot of the bunks aren't designed for adult size people. If they are 102lb girls, they might be viable. If they are 6'2" guys, I'd be worried about a bunk collapse.
56Jeff
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
I agree with a previous post.
My neighbor when looking for a RV, the sales guy said, he would love to sell them something they could not use, but could afford, but he wanted a clear mind, He said, get a camper the husband and wife could use, and handle alone. Their 2 kids we grown and out the house. Good intentions, but in 4 years only the son ever went 2 times. They were starting their lives and careers. just no time to go with the parents. You know your family best, not us. Just something to consider. Congrats and good luck.
LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
packpe89 wrote:
My older son had the brake line issue on his '06 z71, good thought. ....I pulled a 30'TT across country before and would prefer to not do it again, pulled ok, but from what all i've heard a 5th is much better. True?

The common place for the brake line to pop is just under the driver seat...it's the tube that runs from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. When I replaced mine we found many other spots weakened by corrosion. If you are a DIY person you can get it done for $125 and a Saturday worth of work.

I pulled a TT (34') for 10 years before my 5er (36'). I never had an issue with pulling the TT but I was a fanatic about ensuring the WD hitch, ride height, and load distribution were all properly set. This past summer we pulled the 5er all through the Rockies in Wyoming. It probably was a better overall towing experience than the TT and I can definitely say hitching and unhitching is a much easier task with the 5er.. The biggest benefit is the 5er towed about 6' shorter than the TT if you account for where the front of the trailer sets and overall length.

KJ
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
I agree with Veebyes. You should not get a camper based on what the kids want. You should get that "couples camper" now for the two of you, and you two only! The kids are old enough to make their own campsite reservations (if they want to come along that bad, they'll do it! Otherwise, the mooching off Mom and Dad ... buck has to stop here and now!) It's time to let them go. Get a couple's camper and make sure they understand it's designed for only 2 people. You will discover one of two things ... the kids have grown up and are now able to fend for themselves, make their own reservations, get their own camping equipment, and continue to enjoy being around you .... or they will protest, grumble and fuss because now they have to do their own cooking! We all love our kids and grandkids, but they CANNOT be co-dependent on us for the rest of our lives (or theirs).
LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
CampingN.C. wrote:
The key to a couple of the above post is "flat ground". I had a 2005 with the 6.0 and went everywhere from NC south, including Disney, and it did fine with a 9200lb TT.
It did not like the mountains at all though.

True indeed. I pulled our 7200lbs TT to Bristol, TN several times. That 6.0L didn't sing, it screamed at 4200 RPM up many of the hills through the Daniel Boone Nat'l Forest.

But.....it always got me there without a problem. That engine was rock solid reliable. 300HP, 330 ft-lbs of torque wasn't the most in the world, but it did the job.

KJ
Veebyes
Explorer II
Dec 18, 2017
I sure would not be buying a trailer based on my kids say so. They are all old enough to sleep in a tent if they want to come camping.

We have what I call a rolling condo. Very much a very comfy couples 5er. On the rare occasion one of our adult kids join us they make do with the fold out sofa. 95/100 travel days it is just the 2 of us. No way would we even consider getting something better suited for those few days when we have a guest.
CampingN_C_
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
The key to a couple of the above post is "flat ground". I had a 2005 with the 6.0 and went everywhere from NC south, including Disney, and it did fine with a 9200lb TT.
It did not like the mountains at all though.
Gearing is everything on those trucks and most people were running 265's or 285's on those years, which reduces you to a 3:73 or higher.
Stay out of the mountains and you'll be fine, that 6.0 may be the best engine Chevy's ever built.
packpe89
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
My older son had the brake line issue on his '06 z71, good thought. On tires, they are e-rated and will keep those. Good thought on the cost benefit NMDriver, but we will plan to go across country in 2-3 years with the new TV, so I pulled a 30'TT across country before and would prefer to not do it again, pulled ok, but from what all i've heard a 5th is much better. True?
NMDriver
Explorer
Dec 18, 2017
Check on your data plate for the cargo capacity and GVWR. Remember with a 5er it is the carrying capacity not the tow capacity of the truck that matters.

You will probably be fine with a 10,000lb fully loaded 5er, which means around a 8,000lb empty unit. Finding one to accommodate 5 adults may be the issue, since I am guessing the kids do not want to share a bed.

The hitch holes as you describe them sounds about standard for spacing, but are likely for a particular brand of hitch rail. Basically, there are two rails that attach cross ways in the bed, via the holes you have, to brackets that are attached to the truck frame under the bed. A good hitch installer can probably figure out what you had and with the holes and IF the brackets are still in place you can save some money on the install or some work if you DIY.

From a cost benefit point of view I think you will be better off with a Travel Trailer and a pop up trailer. Get the kids to tow the pop-up when they want to meet you.
MFL
Nomad II
Dec 18, 2017
It sounds like you are close in your numbers. If you stay under your RAWR/tiremax rating, it should work for you. On flat ground, shorter distance, the older 6.0, with 4-speed 4.10 gears, should handle 10K towing. You should have 3K left for hitch/pin weight on your rear axle and tires.

Not sure what you are describing with the 4 bolt holes being a 2.5' square. If it was a standard type rail setup previously installed, and still has the brackets under the bed, you may be able to go from there. Otherwise, best to start completely over with under bed brackets, that fit standard rails.

Jerry