Anderson Ultimate and 100" wide 5th Wheel

I tow a wide body 5er with a 2015 Ram 3500 Mega Cab dually using an aluminum Andersen Ultimate. I have towed approx. 7000 miles with this set up and am pleased with it.

The hitch is simple and easy to install and remove, it is quiet in operation, you can hook up at any reasonable angle and when we set the rig down on the hitch there's no question that you're connected - no high hitching, none of which I can say about the Pull Rite slider I used previously. Additionally,I can turn close to 90 deg without hitting the cab.

That being said, pin box-to-bed rail (or in my case, sliding bed cover rail) clearance can be an issue.

There is no perfect system and none that is immune to stupid human tricks, but I am happy with the Andersen and would recommend it.

Happy trails,
Bill

skidooman93 wrote:

Searching_Ut wrote:
Would need more specifics about your trailer to know for sure, but with the Andersen ultimate you will probably end up being able to turn slightly less sharply with your trailer than you would be able to turn with a conventional hitch. Most of the newer medium sized trailer now use a variation of the lippert 1602 pin box. It has a long arm, and will sometimes hit the bed rails of your truck when you have the hitch set low which you tend to have to do with the new ram trucks to get your 5er anywhere close to level. The Andersen pin adapter will either lengthen or shorten the effective length of your kinpin by 4 inches. More than likely you will have to shorten the length by putting the pin in front of the ball to keep from hitting the bedrails in tight turns.

The Andersen hitch moves the ball 4 inches behind the axle on a ram shortbed, which gives you the ability to turn slightly tighter, However, the shortened pin arm resulting from putting the pin 4 inches in front of the ball removes that advantage. I just switched from and Andersen ultimate to a B&W hitch a few weeks ago and returned today from a 2500 mile trip of a couple weeks, lots of different driving conditions. With my Andersen, I could get approximately 75 to 80 degree during optimal flat smooth turns. With the B&W which I have set back 4 inches same as I had the Andersen, I find I can get approximately the same 88 degrees, if not slightly more that Heatland advertises for their nose cap.

Bottom line, without knowing which pin box you have, and how high you can get away with adjusting your hitch, I can't tell for sure how you would have to install your Andersen Pin adapter which effects turning radius a fair bit.

Thanks for the info. I believe the pin box is a 1721 or something like that. The goosebox option fits the 1602 and the 17XX I have.

So I expect the same adjustments you had, my truck may sit a little lower with it loaded it is a 2500.

Why did you go away from the Anderson?

Because of DAMAGE.
His post was the one I LINKED in my first post.

Which wasn't bashing just providing information about an incident with use of Andersen

Me Again wrote:
From TDR

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/254427-Forget-what-I-said-about-Andersen-hitch?highlight=andersen

What an idiot. ALL hitches will hit the cab, IN REVERSE! Hitch doesn't matter. A slider only gives you more time before you DO hit.

Lyle

Searching_Ut wrote:
Would need more specifics about your trailer to know for sure, but with the Andersen ultimate you will probably end up being able to turn slightly less sharply with your trailer than you would be able to turn with a conventional hitch. Most of the newer medium sized trailer now use a variation of the lippert 1602 pin box. It has a long arm, and will sometimes hit the bed rails of your truck when you have the hitch set low which you tend to have to do with the new ram trucks to get your 5er anywhere close to level. The Andersen pin adapter will either lengthen or shorten the effective length of your kinpin by 4 inches. More than likely you will have to shorten the length by putting the pin in front of the ball to keep from hitting the bedrails in tight turns.

The Andersen hitch moves the ball 4 inches behind the axle on a ram shortbed, which gives you the ability to turn slightly tighter, However, the shortened pin arm resulting from putting the pin 4 inches in front of the ball removes that advantage. I just switched from and Andersen ultimate to a B&W hitch a few weeks ago and returned today from a 2500 mile trip of a couple weeks, lots of different driving conditions. With my Andersen, I could get approximately 75 to 80 degree during optimal flat smooth turns. With the B&W which I have set back 4 inches same as I had the Andersen, I find I can get approximately the same 88 degrees, if not slightly more that Heatland advertises for their nose cap.

Bottom line, without knowing which pin box you have, and how high you can get away with adjusting your hitch, I can't tell for sure how you would have to install your Andersen Pin adapter which effects turning radius a fair bit.

Thanks for the info. I believe the pin box is a 1721 or something like that. The goosebox option fits the 1602 and the 17XX I have.

So I expect the same adjustments you had, my truck may sit a little lower with it loaded it is a 2500.

Why did you go away from the Anderson?

Would need more specifics about your trailer to know for sure, but with the Andersen ultimate you will probably end up being able to turn slightly less sharply with your trailer than you would be able to turn with a conventional hitch. Most of the newer medium sized trailer now use a variation of the lippert 1602 pin box. It has a long arm, and will sometimes hit the bed rails of your truck when you have the hitch set low which you tend to have to do with the new ram trucks to get your 5er anywhere close to level. The Andersen pin adapter will either lengthen or shorten the effective length of your kinpin by 4 inches. More than likely you will have to shorten the length by putting the pin in front of the ball to keep from hitting the bedrails in tight turns.

The Andersen hitch moves the ball 4 inches behind the axle on a ram shortbed, which gives you the ability to turn slightly tighter, However, the shortened pin arm resulting from putting the pin 4 inches in front of the ball removes that advantage. I just switched from and Andersen ultimate to a B&W hitch a few weeks ago and returned today from a 2500 mile trip of a couple weeks, lots of different driving conditions. With my Andersen, I could get approximately 75 to 80 degree during optimal flat smooth turns. With the B&W which I have set back 4 inches same as I had the Andersen, I find I can get approximately the same 88 degrees, if not slightly more that Heatland advertises for their nose cap.

Bottom line, without knowing which pin box you have, and how high you can get away with adjusting your hitch, I can't tell for sure how you would have to install your Andersen Pin adapter which effects turning radius a fair bit.

minnow wrote:
Is there a local RV dealer that sells the Andersen? If so, would they allow you to install it, drive the 130 miles to your RV and then you can determine if this works for you. If it does, you'll buy it from the dealer.

I couldn't imagine a dealer allowing this. If it DOESN'T work, then the dealer now has a hitch he can't sell.. or has to sell used, and lose money on it.

Mike

If you already have a turnover ball, maybe you could borrow an Andersen from a buddy and try it out. I have the steel version and would love to have the aluminum but already have the steel so I'm fine.

I tried testing the turning radius but got too nervous about the weird angles the axles and tires were bending that I stopped at the point I was happy. It's strange to hear and watch them do that. I've never tried to get to 90 degrees.

Is there a local RV dealer that sells the Andersen? If so, would they allow you to install it, drive the 130 miles to your RV and then you can determine if this works for you. If it does, you'll buy it from the dealer.

Enough! :M
Stay on topic or this thread will be closed just as many others have been when bashing and off-topic remarks become excessive.
Barney

IdaD wrote:

skidooman93 wrote:
I have never said I care about being about to make 90 degree turns. I understand that is a draw back to having a short bed truck and a non slider hitch. That is my choice. However having a turning radius of only 50-60 degrees is not desirable. I understand I will have to make more moves in tight campgrounds. And as stated before, I don't need someone to tell what can happen if you turn too tight. You can quit with the examples it is not rocket science.

Only one person has come along that has first hand experience with what I have asked. Everyone else has felt the need to chime in on what can happen if you don't have enough clearance, or what they feel about rounded noised 5th wheels, or short bed trucks.

I don't not have the 5th wheel near by it is located 130 miles away, I also do not have the Anderson hitch. I am asking for experience from others using that hitch with the range of trucks in question. Again I am fully aware that I will not be about to turn 90 degrees that is acceptable. But 50-60 degrees is not acceptable. I should have made this more clear but I didnt think I needed to. I have not asked for opinions only experience.

Can I make 80 degree turns if not give me an estimate, can I handle declines with out the pin box contacting the tail gate or bed sides. That is what I want to know.

I can turn at full lock either direction going forward with no contact, FWIW. Backing it will hit at some point. I don't know the specific angle in degrees, but it turns plenty tight for my needs. Being able to turn 90 degrees is pretty meaningless in the real world.

I appreciate your info. I plan to contact Anderson Tomorrow. But that is kind of what I needed to hear. I would like to hear from some others that tow with similar set ups.