Forum Discussion

joe_blow's avatar
joe_blow
Explorer
Feb 15, 2021

Brake controller craziness, advice?

Hi,

Long stupid story sorry....

All has been great with my WW 3705 after the wall sag repair, along with a bunch of other items.

I redid the entire brake system (drums, complete backing plates, bearings etc) last year and has been working awesome.

So yesterday I am in Parker AZ where I stopped for fuel. As I rounded this turn I tapped the brakes (haven't touched the adjustments for a few trips) and I thought I had hit a curb on how it felt.

I continued forward applying the brakes again and it felt normal. Rolled to the stop....bam again. It felt like full voltage was going to the brakes and the tires skid in my side view.

I pulled over and checked everything obvious, all systems ok.

I changed the aggressiveness adjustments on the brake controller and it seemed to be better.

I feel the brake controller is internally shorting or it may be time for new one.

I have owned the same one for 12 years and am wondering if it is time for a replacement?


Any advice is welcomed.

Thank you

Joe
Toy Haulers
  • lenr's avatar
    lenr
    Explorer III
    Feb 17, 2021
    Increasing wire size along with rewiring everything has helped me on three different trailers. I use 12/2 with one run to each axle--that is even larger than using one 10/2. The more wire capacity to the hubs, the less voltage lost in the wire. Rewiring also helps eliminate broken connections.
  • lincster's avatar
    lincster
    Explorer
    Feb 17, 2021
    joe blow wrote:
    Great. I will pull the old wire out, so I can prove or disprove the issue. I will leave the wire outside the tube as I purchased some nice marine grade sheathed 10/2 wire.


    This is what I did recently on my Warrior.
    Ran the wire on the outside of the axle.

    I also did all new brakes/hubs/bearings/races.
    Brakes have never worked better.
  • joe_blow's avatar
    joe_blow
    Explorer
    Feb 16, 2021
    Great. I will pull the old wire out, so I can prove or disprove the issue. I will leave the wire outside the tube as I purchased some nice marine grade sheathed 10/2 wire.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    Feb 16, 2021
    I would go #10 if pulling wire. A bit of overkill at 3 amps per wheel. Marginal cost is minimal.
  • joe_blow's avatar
    joe_blow
    Explorer
    Feb 16, 2021
    I have not looked at the trailer yet, but am planning on taking the wiring out of the tube regardless......I never had a good feeling about it from day one.

    I am buying some shielded 2 wire and am leaning toward a 10/2 setup. Anyone know if that is the right gauge or should I go smaller (12/2)?


    thanks
    Joe
  • joe_blow's avatar
    joe_blow
    Explorer
    Feb 16, 2021
    Thank you very much for the advice.

    I will tear into it in the near future and report back.
  • CarnationSailor's avatar
    CarnationSailor
    Nomad
    Feb 15, 2021
    MFL wrote:
    Brake wires shorting inside your axle can cause this. The wires chafe over time and short out in the axle tube. It can cause an intermittent problem, due to bouncing wires inside.

    Jerry


    X2

    had similar problem due to wire rubbing on brake drum. Rubbed thru insulation and caused intermittent max application of brakes.
  • MFL's avatar
    MFL
    Nomad II
    Feb 15, 2021
    Brake wires shorting inside your axle can cause this. The wires chafe over time and short out in the axle tube. It can cause an intermittent problem, due to bouncing wires inside.

    Jerry
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    Feb 15, 2021
    I recommend the Prodigy P3. Hard to check the brake function while in motion. Was it all tires locking up? Might be time for a bearing repack and inspection of the internal parts. Could also use a clamp-on DC ammeter to check each wheel is getting about 3 amps from the controller when operated manually. All this looking for differences to pinpoint a trouble area.

About Fifth Wheel Group

19,009 PostsLatest Activity: Dec 18, 2017