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Bassmon's avatar
Bassmon
Explorer
Feb 25, 2018

Braking when over weight

Hey guy's. I posted a couple other threads here about weights and most responses were of the mind set that yes im over weight but it looks like you should be ok. Sooo how will this affect my breaking? Do most find that with the FW brakes and my truck brakes i should be good? My specs again are: 2004 Dodge Ram 2500,CTD,SLT 4x4,Long bed. GVWR: 8800,load weight 2020,tow of 11850,rear axle:6000#,Front axle:5200 . Fifth wheel 33' Dry: 8850, Cargo:2350, Pin :1615. Do these numbers look to unsafe?

Thanks,

Larry

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  • MFL's avatar
    MFL
    Nomad II
    Feb 25, 2018
    While the Ford IBC does not send true ABS to the electric trailer brakes, it does have a safety control of them. When the Ford TVs brakes go to ABS, it automatically lessens the power to the trailer brakes, to prevent them from locking.

    Jerry
  • wilber1's avatar
    wilber1
    Explorer
    Feb 25, 2018
    A panic stop towing is a panic with a lot of unknowns. The truck wheels shouldn't lock because of ABS. The trailer doesn't have ABS so locking up the trailer brakes is a real possibility. So you are trying to adjust your brake controller so it would give you threshold braking in a panic. Good luck with that.
  • Cummins12V98's avatar
    Cummins12V98
    Explorer III
    Feb 25, 2018
    laknox wrote:
    Cummins12V98 wrote:
    Truck stops truck, RV stops RV. If you want truck to stop entire load without RV brakes you need a MD or HD truck!


    Even then, you're likely to jackknife during hard braking. Gonna happen with =anything= if the trailer brakes go out.

    Lyle


    Agreed!
  • laknox's avatar
    laknox
    Nomad
    Feb 25, 2018
    SidecarFlip wrote:
    One sure way to tell... Firewall the brake pedal and if the wheels don't slide, you are under braked... and overloaded.
    (snipped)


    You could still have plenty of brake, but the trailer brakes might not be adjusted properly or the brake controller might not be set correctly. Still gonna take out Granny Zog. Just sayin'...

    Lyle
  • old_guy's avatar
    old_guy
    Explorer
    Feb 25, 2018
    if you are over weight you are not OK. don't know who told you were OK. you put a lot of people in harm's way, esp your family. why would you let yourself do that.
  • laknox's avatar
    laknox
    Nomad
    Feb 25, 2018
    Cummins12V98 wrote:
    Truck stops truck, RV stops RV. If you want truck to stop entire load without RV brakes you need a MD or HD truck!


    Even then, you're likely to jackknife during hard braking. Gonna happen with =anything= if the trailer brakes go out.

    Lyle
  • rhagfo's avatar
    rhagfo
    Explorer III
    Feb 25, 2018
    ScottG wrote:
    rhagfo wrote:
    ScottG wrote:
    Cummins12V98 wrote:
    Truck stops truck, RV stops RV.


    That's internet urban legend stuff.
    I have read literature from both Ram and Ford that describe how when combined weight rating rises, so must the trucks service brakes because it's part of the overall braking performance of the entire load.


    Scott, you do realize that GCWR is based on rear gear and HP/Torque not brake size.

    Don't know about the 2004, but the rear brake shoes for a 2001 Ram 2500 is the same as the 3500 DRW.


    I'm sorry but according to Dodge/Ram, that is not the only factor in how they calculate it. They do indeed factor in braking and also, cooling and frame build, which had to be updated before they could rate them at 30K.
    Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying they have different brake shoes for every little weight change, the brakes clearly span a range of capacities.

    Scott, are you referring to the big jump in 2013, or the differences between the three engine HP/Torque ratings.

    If you are making more HP and Torque, yes there are for sure cooling differences. I am not sure how different the frames between the air ride and leaf spring rear axles. It is possible that seeing how they use leaf springs to locate the axle with the air system the differences are minimal.

    I know for my 2001 Ram 2500, an exhaust brake should be used with a 5er over 10,000#.
  • Cummins12V98's avatar
    Cummins12V98
    Explorer III
    Feb 25, 2018
    Planning wrote:
    Cummins12V98 wrote:
    I can tell you from personal experience using the factory controller towing my 33k combined before the flash I had to hit the brakes HARD this is with the RV brakes working at no more than 50% and my pedal setting on the floor the trucks brakes are NOT designed to safely stop much more than the 16k I mentioned.

    It was NOT a good experience.


    I have seen a very improved braking dynamic after adding disc brakes on our 5th wheel.


    I agree there is nothing better than disks on RV's. My current DRV has disk brakes that work very well now that my factory controller has had a flash.
  • Planning's avatar
    Planning
    Explorer
    Feb 25, 2018
    Cummins12V98 wrote:
    I can tell you from personal experience using the factory controller towing my 33k combined before the flash I had to hit the brakes HARD this is with the RV brakes working at no more than 50% and my pedal setting on the floor the trucks brakes are NOT designed to safely stop much more than the 16k I mentioned.

    It was NOT a good experience.


    I have seen a very improved braking dynamic after adding disc brakes on our 5th wheel.
  • Planning's avatar
    Planning
    Explorer
    Feb 25, 2018
    ScottG wrote:
    it's just safe engineering Yes.

    In turn, the front of my truck with it's strong 14" discs would not even activate the anti-locks (the backs did activate).


    Scott,

    What is your understanding of why the front anti-lock did not activate? (My initial thought is: Sufficient inertial transfer of mass in a forward/downward vector to prevent them from breaking traction with road surface.)

    Is that how you see it?

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