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AllRiggedUp's avatar
AllRiggedUp
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Sep 04, 2016

Eternabond Tape on Roof Length-Wise Seam

My Cougar EDPM roof is in good shape with no leaks.

To help keep it that way I am planning on getting some 6" Eternabond tape for some preventative medicine.

Putting it across the front and rear cap seams is straightforward enough - just center it over the middle of the transition seam between the cap and roof.

But two questions after that:

Should the tape that I apply on the length-wise run of the trailer butt up against the edge moulding on the roof side and then have that "hairline" seam area sealed with some Dicor?

Or should the tape, in a somewhat similar fashion like on the front and end cap, overlap the side roof edge moulding but only by an inch or so - so that the seam crests the top of it and the outer edge is actually just slightly on the downward direction - i.e. gravity will pull the water away from the edge of the tape/moulding?

I think the second method by eliminating the horizontal seam between the moulding and the roof will off the best protection.

The answer to this question will determine whether I go with a 6" wide run of tape here too or can save a little $ yet still have plenty of coverage with 4" wide tape.

Second question is where the long side ride of tape meets the front/rear width cap tape should they overlap or be cut so that they butt (and be sealed with a little Dicor)against each other.

This question can also apply to any square application like around vents etc - butt joints and seal or overlap and a small dab on the inside and outside edge where they meet.

I am guessing the butt joints would offer a cleaner looking result?

8 Replies

  • For sure overlap the seams. That's what I did. Resale wise, I would look at it as "they actually took the time to take care of their roof".
  • Nomadac wrote:
    AllRiggedUp wrote:
    My Cougar EDPM roof is in good shape with no leaks.

    To help keep it that way I am planning on getting some 6" Eternabond tape for some preventative medicine.



    Why 6" vs 4" tape? I used 2" over my seams on my Class A MH.


    Thanks for all the replies.

    Agreed - maybe overkill but I thought wider would offer more sealing farther from the seam/edge and therefore greater protection.

    Regarding the roof warranty issue - I am the second owner, so there is no warranty.

    Interesting point on potential resale. It's a 2009 model - so I guess when it comes time for me to sell it a buyer could think - "hey look at all the patching, there's been a problem" and affect the resale value.

    However, I could also look at it if the roof does leak at some point what is it going to cost me to fix it and how extensive is the damage by the time I notice it?

    Then again maybe it will never leak or maybe despite using Eternabond it leaks somewhere that I didn't use it.

    My thought was to address the areas that, aside from physical damage to the roof from branches etc, would as the roof ages be most likely to leak.

    In my estimation - where vertical and horizontal pieces meet and around the roof cut-outs.

    All the comments so far have been greatly appreciated!
  • Home Skillet wrote:
    I would overlap the seams.
    Any transverse seams should have their leading edges overlapped by the one in front of it.You don't want water and air pushing under the tape.

    This is where Dicor or a similar self leveling sealant is needed for sealing out water/air flow intrusion especially on the front edge of the first layer of tape on the front cap and a OEM professional look.
    Keep in mind you don't want to create a dam affect up there for water to sit.

    Lots of youtubes from professional folks on the net or on Dicor website on how to's.

    The OP also needs to think about resale and roof warranty and future repairs before adding any tape for sealant purposes to his trailers roof. A google on the subject has lots of pros and cons on the subject.
  • On those long runs to get it straight do 1 foot at the front, pull out the entire length of tape and pull it tight, and do one foot of the rear, then pull the clear plastic off at a 45 degree angle and work 1 foot at a time by warming it with a heat gun, while pressing it down with a roller. this avoids getting the puckers and wrinkles you'd get trying to put it down little by little.
  • AllRiggedUp wrote:
    My Cougar EDPM roof is in good shape with no leaks.

    To help keep it that way I am planning on getting some 6" Eternabond tape for some preventative medicine.



    Why 6" vs 4" tape? I used 2" over my seams on my Class A MH.
  • I just did some work on our 96 Southwind. I ran 2" Eternabond along the roof edges and overlapped it about 1/2" on the rain gutter.

    I also ran some lengthwise 4" patches/reinforcement. I overlapped them about 1/4".

    Use a straight edge and make a light pen mark on the roof or Eternabond. It makes applying it much easier with a guide to follow.

    Use a roller to press it down, it will last a very long time.
  • Home Skillet wrote:
    I would overlap the seams.
    Any transverse seams should have their leading edges overlapped by the one in front of it.You don't want water and air pushing under the tape.

    X2, No Dicor needed.
  • I would overlap the seams.
    Any transverse seams should have their leading edges overlapped by the one in front of it.You don't want water and air pushing under the tape.